MilesFox

what if one of the drain plugs on the heads are not tight?

when installing the torque converter to the tranny, take it off the back of the motor by the 4 12mm bolts slip the torque converter onto the shaft on the tranny. spin the torque converter and it will seat onto the splines, you will feel it sink in, the teeth for the starter will be flush with the bellhousing of hte tranny then install the motor its easiest when you install the rear tranny mount to the body, then jack the front of the tranny up a few inches so the motor slides onto its studs, and the motor mounts clear the frame when going inward you can slip a long prybar in the holes of the flexplate(flywheel) to hold the motor still to tighten the 12mm bolts on the torque converter

my sedan would get wet, the trim around the rear window had a rust hole as far as wagons look for rusty spots and then above to locate any possible water entry

is this a sedan, or a hatch. i have seen both an ea82 sedan and a hatch do this, pushing down on the lever would release it enough to close. if that does not work suspect the cable itself

i am in milwaukee near the college i will be out here till about the 14th of may before i haed out. i believe there is ferry service here too, i think its about 30 bucks

yo in the midst of frankenswapping clusters for at to 5spd converted soobs, i decided to swap the prndl out for the 4wd in the middle of the cluster. one was from an 87 carb and the other from an 89 turbo. the 87's had an extra wire in back so i opened it up to check it out. i found a swotch inside the odometer that looks to trip every so many miles. so if yours is on the switch triggered it as a reminder rather than something just went out couldnt tell you how to clear the code off hand check the usrm>miscellaneous> ecu codes or the haynes book chapter 6-4

you will have to swap the engine harness, you will have to take off the bumpers to get to the fenders to get to the wiring, all the wiring will pull thru the same hole, the one by the fuse panel. the wiring off the other side disconnects from the rest, that will be the side of the harness for the tranny also by swapping the dash you will have the instrument cluster, and the dash contains the control unit for the transmission you may want to consider swapping the body harness. i did a manual tranny conversion to an 89 4spd auto, and we swapped in a dash from an 87 turbo 5spd, the car started and the gauges worked, but there were different styled plugs on one end and our power lock didnt work, i think its the same wires but just different clips but i think this may have been a difference in year. as in the 85-86 have the same wiring, the 87 would be a cross between 85-86 and the 88 and up i believe 88 and up are all the same wiring. same is true for loyales, that have no options, the connections are on the harness if you added options

i live in fort wayne, in, i am in wisconsin now maybe i could go see it on my way home. is this in th e UP of michigan? and there are others that may be closer. i leave for home around may 16, hollar at my emil if you dont find anyone milesfox@yahoo.com

pimpin. i see na mpfi spider xt motor in the jankity one

during the cam rotations, do you think itys possible you have the disty 180 off? use a pipe and a deadblow hammer to tap the mounting tabs on the disty to free it up, turn and pull for the disty alignement the dot on the passenger cam will; point on the ridge above the SUBARU on the cam cover for every 2 rotations of the rank, the cam will turn once. take off the belts and leave the cams as they are, then turn the crank 360 and re-install and see if that works i had a similar issie puttin an ea82 together and i had to double check the timing and found the crank needed rotated again for the cam alignments

yeah its the same, same lenght and 23 splines as the ea82 axle. i have xt6 axles in my 87 gl-10

if anyone has any pics of trashwagons from either wcss5, iowa II, or any other gatherings such as the road trips, please post a link or email them to either myself or TimHansen, as we are compiling the material for the movie project and its upcoming supporting website. thanx one set of pics i am particularly interested in are the ones that jerry bratsrus took of us loading up the trashwagon at his place, if they have been digitized

the haynes book "subaru 1600 & 1800" is a decent book, way better than chiltons and has good electrical diagrams. you can find it at autozone and the like, but you may have to order it if its not in stock, for about 15 bucks you can look here too http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/subaruframe.htm

maybe the parking lights are on. check the switch on top of the steering column

you migt as well fix it, and catch up on all the engine seals too it would suck to find another motor just to have it be leaking too. what is with the fear of head gaskets anyway? pull the motor and set it in a 5 gallon bucket and bust out the torque wrench. thats all there to it

so is everything still in line for the off roading? its time to buckle down on the plans as we have exactly one month to finalize things

would you have an ea81 2wd or 4wd rear suspension tube, as i would like to build a trailer out of one. i am also looking for blue interior parts for ea81 4wd

try pulling the engine codes, with spfi its easy to narrow down a faulty component. you may have a buggy throttle position sensor, sometimes clocking it will fix any tps issues. try the codes per the article in usrm> miscellaneous and report back

ed, you will have to remove the axle from the knuckle to service the bearings. if the gboots are ok then you wont have to bother withthe axle. depending on your budget you can get a NEW axle from advance autoi for 60 bucks after a 45 dollar core, its lifetime so if you break one you can exchange it. if you are worried about having to maybe service the axle you can get a new one now if you do have torn boots you stand a good chance of cleaning out the old grease and re booting it, as the axle should have some life to it. if you get a new boot it will come with clamps and a pack of grease, and sometimes a roll pin and snap rings. the inner side of the axle comes apart easy, but the uter end you need a drift and a vise to get it apart make sure to use moly ep grease inside the axle should you go that route keep in mind when popping the ball joint you may rip the boots with a pickle fork, this is ok if you intend to replace the ball joint. otherwise you can remove the pinch bolt and leave the ball joint on the lower control arm, and separate the top side from the knuckle. a long bar placed across the lower control arm under the axle and wedged into the radius rod mount is useful for pushing the lower control arm away enough to pop the ball joint out once the ball joint is separated then you can pul the axle away from the tranny (after the pin is removed) once the axle is off the tranny you can use a hammer to drive the axle out be careful not to damage the htreads. i take the axle nut off, then tread it on backward so its flush with the axle thread, use a block of wood and a hammer to get it going, take the nut off. i like to butt the round end of a ball peene hammer to drive it out the rest of the way with e 3 lb hammer to drive the axle back in, if the knuckle is on the car you can put the tranny end of the axle on once the threaded side is fed into the knuckle, you can tap around the knuckel to start the axle thru, and use the nut to draw it the rest of the way. if the knuckle is off the car you can use a hammer and a block of wood to drive it in from the tranny end. sometimes a new axle will just slide in with little effort good luck once you figure it out the first time any time after should be a breeze.

try to take the reservoir off rather than the whole pump. take a long hose and bleed the lines into a jug. dammit atf is messy. i dont understand

i tell you what i feel a lot safer riding in an ea82 subaru than say some grand am or cavalier, i wont be sucked under the dash in a subaru! let me remind you that if your car has an automatic seat belt, PLEASE wear the lap belt also. sure its convenient to keep you from getting tickets, but it does NOTHING without the lap belt buckled. i dont see a point in wearing only the shoulder part alone, if that were the case i would wear none of it, but i always buckle the lap portion the reason i stress this is someone i know passed away last week when she was ejected from her legacy, the car rolled over on her. if she had the lap belt on it wouldnt have been such a sad story

yo my buddy also is rick james ***************. he slapped his own mamma cause she called him rick. he told the *************** its rick james ***************. also known as zanny dook, chewbacca. the white wookie. welcome to the board, rick james, bithc!

yo i got tenative plans to come up to pauls to work on some soobs. if you need a hand in parting fixing, or expediting the car i could help out. i have a tow bar that fits on ea82 subarus. heck i may be interested in the car myself, if you part it off for what you want, as long as it has a title and can be put back together i could take it with me. depending on the junkyard we could tow it to the yard and pull the suspensions this works out good with the towbar as i have junked 3 cars this way i figure if im out that way might as well get things lined up and run cartel on that part of the country! holalr back

even if you use the converter or use rivets and new metal(going the no-weld route) still you will want to cut away any of the flaky rusted metal what you can and treat whats left before making the repair.

check to see if any of the timing belts are broken. perhaps you broke the passenger side, as this will run on 2 cyl. the car will not run at all if the driver side breaks the squealing may have ben a bad tensioner pulley, and if it locked up it would burn up the belt is the carb original, does it look like its all hooked up? maybe the car is a late 87 on the body but is considered 88 for registration