MilesFox

the most important part is removing the axle without boogering up the htreads/ you want the whole strut assembly to pull away enough for the axle to slide off the tranny end(after the pin is removed) then you want to pound the axle thru the knuckle till it pops out. thread teh castle nut on BACKWARD intil its flush with the axle stub. use a 3 poind hammer and a block of wood to start pounsing it thru. it has to pound thru 2 bearings, pouns it thru so far and remove the nut. then use a pipe, or hold the round end of a ball-peene hammer against the axle, pound on it with the fat hammer. to reinstall the axle, but it on the tranny end first, then slip it thru by hand what you can, and tap around the knuckle to persuade the axle thru. once the axle is thru enough, you can put on the rotor and then the nut, and use the nut to draw it thru. you will have to use the nut with no washers to catch the first thread, draw it thru, then remove the nut, put on the washers, then draw it all the way thru and torque it down people will tell of several ways to pop the ball jount, take off the lower control arm, etc. but the main objective it to be able to pull the strut assembly away from the car enough to slide the axle off the tranny, and enough to let it dangle and pop thru without the car being in its way

it will be inside the fender on the other side of the battery(at least that's where it is on an ea81t, 85 mpfi is about the same system as an ea81t)

you will have to cut into the framerail by the crossmember bount on the driver side, cut about 1/2 inch into the framerail, the structural part of the crossmember mount will be exposed, but not cut into the passenger side may bneed a little for the middle of the cam cover. the timing belts covers will interfere wit hthe front portion of the frame, you can modify the plastic covers, or leave them off altogether i run all my ea82 without tinong belt covers, for serviceability. have never had issues running exposed belts. although ti leave the portion behind the t-belt idler pulley on the bottom driver side

the charp "horn button" switch is perfect for the application. since it doesnt carry a lot of amperage. the heavier "push button starter switch" is more than what is needed for a soob, bulkier to mount, too

so what did you use for a manual boost controller? tell us quickly, so we can make one for the RX before it snows!!!!!

work has begun taking the front suspension from an 81 GLF to put into the 78 BRAT. its all disconnected except for one crossmember bolt, the nut is stripped. will have to come back with a sawzall or grinder. the brat is missing the fenders and a driver side window. we have its ea71 motor, are going to use the heads from an 87 hatch, bigger valves. we also have a hitachi carb from an ea82 to use. right now we have the 4spd s/r trans, but if we get a dual range, or any 5spd, we have the bellhousing from an ea81 motor to use. if we do get a 4spd dual range, we will be playing with the idea of using an ea82 motor. once i get my xt6/legacy struts, the rear disc off my wagon will be available i have a set of ea82 lower control arms, one from the xt6, and one from an 88 wagon, if they are the same length and opposite sides, i will consider an ea82 front end conversion, i can get the strut assy, just need axles(more readily available) so the end result will be an ea82 front suspension(like trashwagon5) an ea71 motor and trans(or possibly an ea82 and dual range, have motor, need trans) and rear disc brakes. it will also have an ea81 bumper, and maybe enders if we can get it to look right. our main priority is getting the suspension on so we can wheel it around and make room for other projects i will post my progress on the use of the ea81 front crossmember

i dont know the specifics, but the victor reinz gaskets i get from NAPA are graphite, as well as intake and exhaust gaskets, too the felpro gaskets for my turbo were also graphite

THE DOOK (like as in "the sh*t" its brown) TURBLOW(or TURDBO) SUBAJET RXKILLR TRASHBACK (if it were my vehicle!)

i would recommend no sealant, as i have done al my heads without, your gaskets should be graphite faced, which allows for expansion of the head. if anything, use the sealant on the block side of the gasket

what year, as the crome -83 bumpers are different thanthe 83-84(and up brat) bumpers although i think one mounting ststem(crome) can be retrofitted to the latter (had the idea to do, but lost half my parts before it was done)

it will rattle the roof rack, a desired affect, considering the roof rack isnt secured very well! (i had to hold it down for 20 miles because a screw fell out on the way to WCSS5

any of the screws on the distributor body itself are the same screws for the rotor

my experience says push-button starter. but no ones experience says it has to be done a certain way, but rather givce more options to fix the situation let it be the one who owns the car to decide which method they want to take

here is the roof of boom: I have a piece of plywood behind the headliner in the back. the headliner itself ic covered in carpet. I hae apait of 8" subs mounted cone side up on the ceiling, and the cavity behind the roof rack acts as the enclosure. i have a 200 watt 2 channel amp and crossover unit on the ceiling behind the dome light, and a pioneer cd in the dash i got about 100 bucks into it, used radio, speakers, amp, new tweeters, crossover, and subs

will the intake harness be compatible with the 87 mpfi, as if i were to put an 86 motor into my 87 turbo wagon, and use the 87 distributor?

it doesnt matter wat yer soob looks like, just as long as you show up. i dove to jims 100 miles with no front axle, home, delivered pizza, and then drove back to jim's before i fixed the axle. then i swapped car/intake and a tire just before the 100 mile trip back home. sure your soobs can make the trip. maybe we can all meet in butler(top NE corner of IN) at the carbola to gather up, and then scoot 10 miles down the road for some decent baja'n acerage(1ABAJA's department) we had the meet last year, so the next time is cvery doable, and now there are more people that know about it YOSH! what can you come up with?

line up the flywheel to 0 degrees so the rotor points to #1 cyl, it will point to theleft of the screw that holds thew cap on towards theback . remove the 2 bolts that hold the distributor, and pull it out! the rotor will turn slightly as it didsngages the gear, so remember that when putting it back on. you will see the "shadow" of where the bolts fit on the distributor, so you can use that to get your timing lined up

what will you be doing with the trans from the 86(or whichever one will be leftover) ro-neece will be looking for a trans. i'll PM the details

i was parked behind him at the show. but he was inclined to turn on his stereo and open the hatch as if to keep pace with the "Roof-Of-Boom" maybe he felt the need to compete with the TrashWagon, but mine and his are at the opposite ends of the same spectrum! i got "most miles driven" award

yup. i drew it all. there were easyrider mags floating around, and i used a dennis kirk ad for the pose, and pickesd different details offf of various bikes and drew my own, relating from the details in the pic.

you can test your wire by jumping from the battery to the starter as skip suggested. the fuel pump kicks on for a few seconds. then it recieves a signal from the dist. to stay on. i dont know about 91, but all my mt's would start without depressing the clutch if the starter works wit the jumper wire, you can make a push button starter switch by connecting to the tab on the back of the starter. run a wire from the fuse panel, to a switch, and then thru the firewall to the starter. that will save you from having to take the dasboard and carpet out to find a relay the power for the starter comes straight off the positive cable. i have seen cables that looked intact, but had a break inside. make sure your pos battery wire is good

you can run the wire to the swithch from inside, if you like, you can tap into the fuse panel from a "Hot at all times" wire. you can just jump a wire from under the hood to verify the starter still works before you do all that wiring. go from the fuse panel to the switch, and bring the wire from the switch thru the speedo or clutch cable grommet(or thru the steering shaft, but tie it up so it doesnt get twisted with the steering shaft

i drew this one in the hamilton county

sounds like a starter relay. you can jump the starter by running a wire to the tab on the back. i like to run a push-button start switch to the terminal

somewhere there is a relay that sends power to the small tab on the top of the starter. you can jump the starter from there to see if it works. i like to run a push-button switchc to the terminal, the key just turns the car on.