MilesFox

might i suggest putting a complete hitachi carb/intake on there, much easier to do than spfi swap. you also have the option of weber on the hitachi manifold, or the fact the mpfi is still htere, you can go back to turbo all you will need is a carb/manifold combo, a carb fuel pump, and a 85-86 distributor. all of the mpfi can still be there, coil hookup stays the same a carb doesnt do to bad when its all there, spanked an spfi once in the trashwagon w/exhaust mods

oh, hell! dond give me that rust crap. that is the mintest wheel arch i have seen. my car doesnt even have one nice sony cyber shot pic

the 81 glf we called the DL-10?. the 2wd to 4wd conversion sedan is called the GL-7

is the automatic trans full-time, you need 25 spline axle, xt6 uses 25 splines. if it is indeed 25 spline, it will fit on an RX i am wondering if the ball joint hole or the length of the xt6 lower control arm is the same or different than an ea82

the 5spd is shorter than the automatic, so you will need the 5spd driveshaft, the front half at least, as the rear half is the same length as any. and the crossmember with the 5spd has to go in, rear diff, clutch, etc but if you lay both trannies side by side with their respective driveshafts, the whole shebang will be the same length

subaru should have built a 2-door off the impreza andd adapted the overseas dual range trans and simply called it SUBARU BRAT a lot of people who remembered subarus back in the day remembered the BRAT subaru should have learned from volkswagen

some think you have to have a rwd to have fun. the average driver cant do a powerslide or drift effectively the average driver doesnt know that you can do drifts and powerslides in a front-drive car either

who wasit, that guy who can service ujoints in the driveshaft... he said something about the vacuum controls the 4wd clutches on a regular 3eat. but i recall somthing about 4eat to lock in the clutches, but i cant remember if it was vacuum or electrical, i think from the new gen forum i am going to hook up the 4wd button on my 5spd to the diff lock on the xt6 tranny

well if by then it has been serviced at least once, its good to go. a soob motor is only going to fail if necessary maintenance was not done i had a car with an estimated 300,000 miles. it had gobs of crank play, but no knocking. i used the heads on an spfi block, they dont smoke! it started up after sitting for a year. it had the clutch and timing belts done, maybe the water pump. i got it from the first-owner

if i remember right, i removed the lower kick panel, and dropped the fuse block. there may be a relay hanging out with the fuse panel, you might have to loosen the hood release cable mount, you can get to the speaker that way. i installed the new speaker thru the speaker bezel itself thru the front

but if you take the time to do these things you will not have to worry about them for a long time. and if you do the work yourself, the total cost of preventative maintenance parts can be less than having the car in the shop for timing belts! if you get even a good soob in good shape, expect to at least change the timing belt, as preventative measure. you can drive them until a belt breaks and it wont hurt anything, but that all depends on if you would like to fix it off the side of the road! but you can also get a solit but somewhat worn down soob that runs strong for cheap and then do a little bit of work to it, and it will be good for another 100,000 miles before you have to worry about anything major

There is really no aftermarket for older soobs. But, however, a lot of subaru stuff will interchange. you might have to fill in the blanks, but the right combination of subaru parts will bhysically bolt up. its not so much how complicated the combination is, but the right combination of parts. But only what is known to work is what has been tried already. the board writes itself, as there is no mainstream informatio on how to so the swaps. We know what works so far because it has been done. the information "publishes itself as the results are posted on the message board. an spfi on ea81 with turbo swap has done I have mocked up spfi onto an ea81 motor, just the manifold and distributor. The manifold will bolt up to the ports, but the egr will have clearance issues. The pitch bar rom an ea82 will swap. i flipped the gear on the distributor, and mounted it 180, with the wires plugged in 180 to the cap. this was a mock-up it could have spfi ecu and harness in an ea81 car, or ea81 motor into an spfi car. here are some pics from noah's cis subaru at the subaru alliance swap meet http://photos.yahoo.com/milesfox click the swap meet album

the only reliability issues would stem from lack of maintenance. the ea81 (80-84 wagon, sedan and all hatch and brats) has a pushrod motor. the ea82(85 thru 89 and loyale(thru 94, same car) use the ea82 timing belt motor. if you were to install new belts, you have nothing to worry about for at least 60,000 miles. ea82's are somewhat prone to blow head gaskets, but that is only an issue if the cooling system fails. have all new hosed installed(at least the block-to-intake, and the coolant return line on turbos) the water pump can be serviced while doing the timing belts, as well as oil pump seals a properly maintained soob will last well over 300,000 miles if yer in the market for a soob, find out what kind of service history it has, and when the last time the timing belts were serviced. subarus are relatively easy to service and maintain compared to domestic models(in my opinion) the ea81 soobs will come with 2wd 5spd, 2wd auto, 4wd 4spd dual range, and 4wd auto single range the ea82's will come with 2wd 5spd and auto, 4wd 5spd and auto, and 4wd dual range 5spd. the rx's have a full time 5spd dual range turbos are no less reliable than regular motors, same preventative maintenance still applies. although turbos tend to run hotter, no problem with good cooling system parts between soobs are rather interchangeable between body styles and motors, and some ea81 and ea82 parts will m=interchange your newer (90+ legacies have all wheel drive) stay away from automatics, they tend to leak between the front diff and ATF, or they dont shift right after a while(governor shaft) 4wd 5spd dual range is the best choice for a trans, makes the car most capable in off road if you like to get your hands dirty, then the subaru will be the choice for one who is passionate about driving and maintaining their car.

the passenger side "vent" speaker can be accessed by removing the inner glove box, and 8mm socket. i used a 4 inch speaker from radio shack, you can fanagle the speaker to mount to the original speaker's bracket. you can fit a 4 inch in the driver side dashboard, although you have to set it in there somewhat sideways, and in a way that the wires dont ground you can hook up a regular type stereo to the factory harness. i put a pioneer cd in my 83 wagon. you have to use ONE ground from the front speakers, and ONE ground from the rear speakers, both connected to a COMMON ground on the stereo harness. the 2 extra ground wires from the radio will be taped off. there are 5 connecters, you have to find the right one for the ground, it took me a couple tries to get the fade right. i used the rca out for the amp and crossover, and the tweeters are connected parallel to the front speakers. and all the high-output wire from the back of the stereo is connected to the factory wiring, factory speakers are replaced with better ones. radio shack has quality speakers for a good price, optimus brand(a generic version of pioneer) although the radio shacks around here are phasing out optimus and selling pioneer brand this connection was also used in the 87 rx, ask Myoss Feece i got the stereo to fit flush with the consle, although i had to modify the internal radio mounts, and the hole for the screw on the side of the console is offset about 1/2 inch so the radio doesnt interfere with the heater core box

yes, this is where most of your cutting will be. you might have to cut the other side, or whack a good dent there for clearance

stuck in the woods...

hey, josh, you got yellad at or the same things. there is lots of postings about gear ratios, try the searchg function and see what you can find! welcome to the board

this is what a "BARU" is http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/WCSS5/P7050005.JPG the whole car http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/WCSS5/P7050004.JPG

why are you yelling?

it is calling for snow around here. sleeting a little, but its gonna come down some 5 inches thru the morning. good thing i got gas!

i just uploaded some pics of wcss5 photography by ed rachner i will make an index page linking each pic to the year and make and owner(as i collect the info) if you see your ride, post the filename(s) with your year and make, and a few details http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/WCSS5 if anyone has pics from the show i will host them with these

i am posting from what i know and my experiences more than from what i read off the board.

if you get vols and it quits, sounds lile the relay is working. when you turn the key to run position, it kicks the pump on for a few seconds. after that, the fuel pump comes on when sensing a signal from the rotating distributor. so you will want to check out where the signal from the dist goes, and what it goes to to kick the fuel pump on

i wouls think it s fiberglass. the shield on the spare tire crossmember fell apart, and there was a big pad of fiberglass insulation there, the woven sheet type. i dont think soob would have use asbestos for exhaist shrouding. asbestos wouold be daek in color. if its white or looks like it used to be white, its fiberglass.

the aftermarket coil has a greater spark potential than stock coil. but you are only going to take advantage of its benefits if you widen your spark plug gap , and use fatter ign wires. the accel coil is about 30 bucks, slightly more for the chrome model. they both fit and connect the same ad stock. you can gap your plugs to .050. accel makes a "make your own length" 8mm spiral core wire. (my buddy had a set and it was enough to make 2 sets of wire, and almost enough for a 3rd. having the extra gap in the plug will help burn more completely. having the accal coil will give enough juice to spark the gap. the 8mm wire will let the plug draw the spark from the coil