MilesFox

i would say above the rear window. for one that' wing is actually for an 8a81 WAGON. two, it helps keep dust and rain off the rear window when going down the road three, i wish i had a wing on my wagon! at least you can tell the ricers that your wing actually HAS an aerodynamic function that ACTUALLY WORKS "My spary paint will waste your decals!"

i'll bet the timing belts were timed to 0 deg instead of the 3 marks. the dist could be timed to the 3 marks, i used to make that mistake, but if it was a fairly competent mechanic, he would know to do distributor timing to the degrees marks. its possible the cams could be in the same orientation, with either one cam on time and the dist on time, but the other cam would be 180 deg off, and this the car would be running on 2 cylinders, and the dead cylinders firing on the exhaust stroke tom picked up the the xt6 and the belts were out of time (tom, where you at?) take it home first, its not too complicated if you can use a wrench and follow directions. the haynes book is fairly comprehensive. but if you look at the pictures alone, it will throw you off. if you had the right tools, and kept touch with the message board, its something you can do on your own. since you are getting an otherwise good soob, and you are getting the price because it doesnt run. once running, it would be worth more than what you got it for sure, and it wouldnt cost you anyhing to fix the belt and get it to run. (ecxept for a service book or maybe a few tools

a lot of times the 3-door is listed as "hatchback" and the hatch is listed as "STD" you might as well order for the same year brat, or an 84 wagon. the only difference with the late model hatches is the ea71 motor(all though they have the ea81 bellhousing and valves)

i built the front lift at the same time of the transmission install. i did have to cut the shifter hole out a little for 5th gear and reverse. the mt crossmember had to go in in place of the at's before i had the lift, the tranny would go most of the way in, but hung down an inch or so too far. that is why i say make some washers to drop the crossmember down up to an inch or so, witht e combination of say, beating out the tunnel. its the big fat square part of the 5-speed that doesnt want to fit. and where the 24wd lever that runs alongside the tranny wants to hit the tunnel when i cut out for the 2wd, i actuall cut alot more than i needed to.

is it ea82? if so, thgere are 2 bolts on the inside of the framerail under the hood. there are access holes, 2 14mm bolts on each side. towards the front like under the battery, you may have to move some wiring out the way to see them. the heads bolt thru to the inside, thread into the bumper mount, no nuts on the other side!

one thing i know FOR SURE is that the 2wd and 4wd rear caliper and rotor are the same, mount the same, the only thing that is different is the hub. maybe the backing plate is different if i remember correctly. i have backing plate and caliper from 4wd, and a 2wd rotor on my setup

sorry if you dont believe me, but i stated thet phrase, sust to be surprised that someone already said it on a bumper sticker! anyway, TrashWagons have been seen driving around with no fenders. trashwagon4 was flipped, impounded. i drove it out of the 'pound, and pimped it around town. after i fixed it up by making it a (worlds only) 2door wagon, i was cruising with no tailgate and no rear bumper. the Chief of Police himself deemd the car "unsafe" after i got it stuck atop a snow plow mound at the library parking lot. officer planck: "What kind of exaple do you think you are setting for these kids out here?" this fox:"I think they get a kick out of it" they laughed when i told them my buddy was coming out in a Grand Am to get me unstuck. a quick tug and i was free. and then there was the time i got stuck on top the dirt mound at the city maintenance bldg. officer traster: "what are you doing?" this fox: "tryin out 4-wheel lo!"

i have mocked up an ea82 turbo and crosspipe to a regular ea81, so if you need to replace it, consider an ea82's

put a 5 spd in an 83 turbo wagon, an 83 2wd 5spd, converted an ea82 from 4x4 auto to 5spd, and 2wd auto to 5spd 4x4. on the turbo wagon, i used the clutch pedal box from an 83 2wd 5spd, works perfect. on the 2wd 5spd, i used the original cable. on the ea82 auto, i used from an 86, and the 2wd to 4wd used from an 88 the 83 turbo had a 3 in lift, no tunnel mods. the 83 2wd had holes cut out of the side for the 4wd lever and the big square protrusion on the back of the tranny. and also, what q-man said:D

i have heard that the whole suspension will bolt up between ea81 and ea71. havent confirmed it yet, but we have a 79 brat with no front suspension, and a glf for parts

if you couldnt find a tranny, you can swap bellhousings between the motors supposedly ea81 suspension and crossmsmbers will fit on a gen 1.

i had the idea once, for storage of the 205/55 16" chevy wheel i have alreadt chopped a hole on the hood of my turbowagon, a bigger hole sounds more fun!

i find the haynes book quite comprehensive. but its worded in funny british terms. but if you read the text you'll be alright!

you can replace only the clutch disc if you choose to do so. but having the motor out, you will want to check out the throwout bearing(on the clutch fork) and the pilot bearing(in the center of the flywheel. you will also want to inspect the pressure plate for warped fins or a grooved surface. if everything checks out ok, you can replace the clutch disc, but you will want to at least scuff up the flywheel by sanding it down or using an abrasive sanding pad for use with a drill or the like. if there are grooves in the flywheel, you will want to have it resurfaced like that of a brake rotor. if the pressure plate is grooved, you might as well replace it. clutch discs are around 60 bucks, throwout bearings around 40 bucks. you can get the whole clutch kit, it comes with the pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing, as well as pilot bearing and clutch centering tool. that will be around 140 bucks. i am quoting these prices from my experiences at napa. just make sure they know what specific vehicle and transmission to get for, because its too easy for the parts counter to get the wrong parts but first things first, make sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly it has been argued to wether to pull the transmission, or to pull the motor to do the clutch. i myself prefer to pull the motor, and that gives you the opportunity to replace seals and timing belts and such.

what kind of lugnuts are you using. i would suggest 21mm if you dont have them now(at least for chevy rim) on the chev rim, the 19mm stuck nuts wanted to pull thru the holes when torqued down. 21mm all around made a world of difference as far as vibration issues were concerned

if you liik at the top of the carb, you will see a little lever that pushes down on a "plunger" i think it can be replaced without removing the carb. you will have to take the top of the carb off, but that doesnt risk any sealing or risk creating vacuum leaks. check the parts counter for "accelerator pump" and see what they give you. shouldnt be too hard to do. i had the top of a carb off and back on, no new gasket, no silicone, no problem. just be careful not to booger the screws, some of the can be tricky

enjoy the rubber floor mat!

why not stack some washers on the crossmember bolts to drop the tranny down a couple mm. the auto is a fat-rump roast, much heftier than the 5spd. i cut up the tunnel for the 5spd in the trashwagon. i believe i showed it to matt, to give an idea of what cutting looks like. tell 'em GD. the washers, the washers!

its a pair of 8 inch woofers and an amp mountsd to the ceiling. the idea originated from having the amp on the cailings of both my 79 pinto and 80 mercury bobcat, but the soob was the first to get speakers on the ceiling. the name derives from a pic of an amc wagon i saw on the internet. i had a picture on the wcss site, but i think its down right now ?

trashwagon lives on. at least someone had a use for it. i cant complain, because i scored a new carpet on the way out! i can always get another mat. does dante know its from the trashwagon? let him know that mat has some history behind it!

speaking of pintos, and trashwagons for that matter, my 79 pinto TrashWagon 3 actually had a 4 gallon jug and a garden hose for a gas tank, because the tank's straps broke over a railroad. ha, what do you know, i learned something, hence trashwagon 5 to the wcss. as far as moving the tank to the inside of the car, the only thing i wouldnt like about it is it takes up yout cargo space. what i DO like about the idea would to be an AUXILLIARY tank, not a relocation. trashwagon 5 on the way to wcss had 3 5 gallon jugs in back, all connected to a tap fitted to the tanks drain plug. vary simple in hook up, but we had catastrophic gas tank failures on the way out west ("Folks, dont use a rusted out 20 year old gas tank from a car that sat for 10 years, and install it the day before a 2300 mile trip") other than the gas tank going to hell, the system worked, drove from indiana/ohio border to minnesota/wsconsin border before considering stopping for gas. since the gas tank was the lowest to gravity, the fuel gauge rep[resented all 27 gallond of fuel. and to answer your question about smoking, we smoked the whole way there, in the back seat, with ambient leakage(outside the car) and myself personally soaked in gas after the rupture and recovery attempt in south dakota.

we did the heads on a turbo motor. got it running from being a deadbeat car. it ticked rather loud when it first started, but the noise went away completely after she warmed up. sometimes soobs will do that, its normal as far as what to expect, and its not really a machanical issue, but more of a convenience/annoyance issue. if the car has sat, drive it around and put a few miles on it before you come to your final conclusions

does it cut out momentarily as soon as you hit the gas? it could be the accelerator pump on the carb, seal dryrotted or the like. what it does is sqiurt a shot of gas into the carb until airflow can get the rest of the fuel moving(the atomization effect, burnoulli's principle) if its not working, you get a shot of just air, thus the motor wanting to stall, right before the fuel starts to flow and get it going. how is general driveablility other than that?

the soob dealer has boots w/clamps for about 12 bucks each. you will have to remove the axle following standard axle replacement procedure. once the axle is out, remove the boot from the inner end (DOJ). pop out the circlip, and pull away the axle from the doj. use a pick or a small screwdriver to remove the bearings. ince the bearings are out, the race will come away. pay attention to the orientation of the race fpr re-assembly. there will be the center of the bearing assembly on the end of the splined(axle) shaft. there will be a snap-ring clip there, it can be picked out with skillfil hands, or go get a set of ring pluers to remove it. pull the center of the race off the axle. now you can remove the inner boot, then the outer. reassembly is reverse order. you may need a special tool for the band clamps depending on the style you use. it can be done as long as you know what to expect, and most importantly, having the proper tools.

the dual range 5spd has a 3.9 gear. the single range and automatics have a 3.7 gear. the rx has a 3.7 gear. the lsd comes as a 3.7 gear, but the gears can be changed out and the lsd can be converted to a 3.9 gear, for use with a dual range transmission. you will have to make a mount for the carrier bearing of the driveshaft. you will have to drill holes and install long bolts for the rear diff hanger, but the holes are already stamped in the fram(you will see once you take a look) the shifter will mount and match the hole, and all the MT center console will swap over and appear stock. if the car is automatic, you will need the transmission crossmmeber and the bolts that go with, you will remove 2 fram bolts, and the crossmember goes there. if the car is already a manual transmission(fwd), then the crossmember will not have to be changed out. you can swap the entire rear suspension assembly, you will have to disconnect some brake lines, and the main(rubber) fuel line from the tank will have to be pinched off, because it runs to a metal pipe affixed to the frame of the suspension itself the one i helped put together was a 2wd auto sedan converted to a 4wd 5spd dual range. aside from the carrier bearing and drilling the rear diff hanger holes, everything will bolt up as if it was stock