MilesFox

from the ypipe/downpipe back, the exhausts will bolt the same. the only difference is 2wd and 4wd, as the 2wd pipes are closer to the trans tunnel, and will rub agsinst the drivedhaft near the gear lever. the back part(from the flange to the muffler) will clear a 4wd axle

here is an idea: if you already have an ea81trubo, drop a spfi motor in there. the ea81t is a single port, and the intake would bolt up to the spfi motor. the only problem is the ea81t injectors are in the head. so you wuld have to invent a way to add the injectors. you could drop in the ea82t use the existing ea81t wiring harness, and onnect it to the ea82t manifold. i dont know if its a direct plug-and -play, but you might get away with using the ea82t distributor if your motor came from an 85-86. if the manifold is not a direct plug and play, you could at least taks the manifold wiring from the ea81t intake and put it onto the ea82 t intake and injectors. both of these idead are quite pissible without having to do an entire wiring harness swap. the ea81t has the aurbox and battery the same ad an ea82, wheras an normal ea81 has the battery opposite side of ea82's the idea you are talking about would have to take the entire wiring harness from an ea82t. then you would have to put the ea82t heads and intake onto the pfi short block. as long as you know enough about what you are doing, it is quite possible. but first off i would recommend knowing your homework about how such systems work, and know your way around your subarus by getting your hands dirty!!!

you could do the poor man's fix by tightening up the throttle cable a hair. it adjusts with the 12mm nuts. adjust them so it ightens up the cable enough to get enough rpm to keep volts up se if you can get a volt meter and chek for voltage. you should have a good 14 volts. check that before boosting your idle up. if its anything less than 14 volts, replace the alternator auto zone ovffers free alternator testing. just drive there and take the alt off on site to have it tested, put it back on to leave!

i have been at 86subaru's (Jim) plce for the weekend fixing soobs. i suggested spraying simple green on the motor and washing it off. i rinsed it off with water from the hose as the motor ran. jim turned off the motor while it was still wet. he went to start it some 10 minutes later, wouldnt fore. no problem, i said check the dis cap and sure enough there was moisture. we wiped it out and we started it up. well, this morning jim made a parts run, and the speedo doesnt work, and it was flashing code 32: bad o2 sensor. but the o2 was replaced at the soob dealer a few months ago. the ecs light will come on and go off. it stays off at idle but comes on as you drive it. jim drives this car daily, but within 10-15 miles from home. i told him that maybe the computer stored a code when it didnt start with the wet cap, and now that it is dry the code is still stored. he disconnected the battery and the ecs light came back. so i have 2 questions. one, would water cause a spedo cable to fail, and two: is it possible the computer cant make up its mind about the code, considering it has onlt ben driven 10 miles since the light came on? Can the computer be tricked or "confused" i said its possible the code may clear up when he takes me 100 miles back to butler. water cant cause an o2 sensor to fail would it? i would hate to think that washing the motor would mess it up, especially ater getting a deadbeat turbo to run and converting an xt with a bad front diff to a 2wd. the only ar to mess up is the one we didnt touch! and YES it IS an spfi ON AN 86 sedan. it was one of 20 factory prototypes and originated from the toledo dealer.

hello. I am from Indiana, but i did have to change an axle in wisconsin while on the road on my wat yo wisconsin. it was in lacrose/onalaska. i lefr a wrench at the quick trip! i had to get the axle in trempeauleau (sp?) sorry i dont lve around you guys, but i may be thru that way when i go to get my car from Idaho!

well, my 83 wagon was originally a 2wd 5spd. i had to cut away a but for the 4wd lever on the side, and the big square part on the back. But ask General Disorder and he will tell you that a 4wd tunnel is bigger. he put a 4spd in a 2wd's tunnel, with just a little beating of the metal(i think) and dropping the crossmsmber down by stacking washers between it and the frame, giving more clearance a 4s0d d/r in a ea81 bodt that is already 4wd wouldnt be as difficult as mine was. if you stack the washers as general disorder did, it mgnt be rel close. expect to massage the tunnel. you may have to cut the shifter hole to get the 5spd lever to fit. there is a stud for a 12mm nut under the tunnel behind the shifter hole, you an use it to mount the 5spds shift lever with the hardware that heldit to the ea82 it came from. the ea82 flywheel will fit on the ea81t only without mods. the flyeheel holes will be larger, but it will still center up on the back of the crank you will ahve to the 2pc driveshaft-------the typical 5spd conversion jive. if you dont know that already it shoul be archived all over the place. either way, 4 or 5spd, you will need to get rid of your existing driveshaft and rear diff. what else do you need to know. will be glad to answer

well, if you already have it, find some turbo goodies to use it on!

my 87 has the hotwire MAF, and the vacuum lines off the turbo. it has the optical disty, too the xt i mention of had the points type distributor, the one suited for CISturbo conversions! maybe 87 is an odd parts bin year? crossover period? i have seen carb, spfi, and turbo on 87's

you are in the land of soobs a plenty! i have to go through scrapping my own rides just to have a pipe. i consider all of my parts gold, because i am the only one who has them! i couldnt tell you how much parts go for out west, but you could almost buy a car thet runs and drives for less than i would pay for a pipe from a car that has been rusting out for years. it shouldnt be too much, maybe you can have one for around 25 bucks. if you were from around here, your question instead would be "Where can i FIND an ea82 y pipe?" good luck!

ha! he said "rust out jones"! all the rusty jones cars i have seen, all that was left was the sticker!!! nice find for a rust-belter where does the car originate from? my 83 wagon was a little rusty, but the best ea81 i have ever seen. but it came from colorado to begin with. but it was still a rust bucket by west coast standards

a strong coil and 8mm wires, .050 gap. an expensive msd module will only look better than the coil set up. its like putting a class3 hitch on your soob, or an 8000 pund winch on a 2300 pound car. msd makes a coul but its almost 80 bucks. the accel is about 30. brand loyalty or a decent price? your choice money talks and bulldook walks

any of the hard plastic brittle pcv lines can be replaced with standard 5/8" heater hose

i noticed on a gl-10 turbo there is a vacuum going from the turbo output to a component on the strut tower, and one coming from it to the wastegate. on an xt turbo, there is a 2 inch hose from the turbo to the wastegate. why the difference? and does the component on the gl-10 have anything to do with fuel or other?

a below 1000 rpm idle for a soob is considered normal. about 700 or 800 rpm it will say on the specs sticker under the hood. as long as it doesnt stall you are good. is your alt bad? if nothing dims at low idle then you are good to go!!!

rust belt! every soob i have seen has at least some but of rust at thr front of the framewell. all i have seen have held up for everyday driving. most of the front structure will be at where the inner engine bay and strut towers meet the firewall. it doesnt really rust too bad around where the bolts go through if you want to build a frame have LIFT in mind, but the sheetmetal will actually make the body stronger. as long as the jack doesnt stay with the car when you lower it(as in a scissor jack) , you are ok! when i had to get the axle from that yard in wisconsin it actually took longet top find a solid spot to jack it up than it did to pull the axle! i know how your rust plight can be! the soobs around here never came with rocker panels or rear side storage(behind the wheel) wheel well arches are always gone, too

simple green will do wonders! use it about 1/4 to half strenght. a bottle of simple green will go a long way! use it under the hood and see what happens "a vacuum line diagram? where did that come from?" use a terrycloth towel. try scrubbing the walls in a factory break room! you could use green label "the works" too, but it is a harsher chemical. cut it down by at least half

aside from valve grinds and such, at least do the oil pump seal and cam/front crank seal. all are accessible by doing a timing belt job. about 25-50 bucks in seals will do the trick! the rear seal should be done if the motor is already out of the car. you will kick yourself if it springs a leak by ignoring it!

it is supposed to run at a fast idle until it warms up, then drops rpm. maybe it has to do with a temp sensor or a thermo switch. something to consider.....

i put a 5spd behind an ea81t. i tried a 4wheel burnout, spun all four tires, but i was actually in 2nd gear high. much faster off the line, and sine the turbo will pull rpm's, it will get you top mph. but the turbo doesnt have bottom end torque, it had high end horsepower. but it will pull throughout its rpm range!, picking up at about 2500 rpm. it will fit with slight tunnel mods, but i had a lift in mine. but i do have a 5spd in a normal 83 wagon with an ea82 motor......no lift, got it to fit!

trashwagon7 ?

you could take your best example of a subaru from indiana and rank right up with the rustiest examples out west. rust is something you acept and deal with around here. and they are like "what is a ziebart" not really, but it might as well be that way................ you should see some of the ford tempos that run around. i'm talking about rust holes in the roof! i bet they dont sell any bondo out west! people drive around cars a lot worse than the ones in junkyards out west thats fer sure!

they suck so bad that you have to put in a 2wd to replace the 4wd with the bad diff. but the good thing about them is torque converters and pumpshafts will interchange with eachother. one of the annoying things is having to remove a flexplate off every motor you get, so you can bolt on a flywheel! its like the automatic was an afterthought, so that people who couldnt drive a stick would still buy a subaru!

its like on an ea82, i prefer the 85-86 style whel. the 88 wheel we refer to as a dildo wheel (one of my friends calls it that) and he deeboed my 86 sedan wheel, and i want it back! i told him if he were going to part off my car, i would rather haad him take the whole thing! brian, it reminds me of my 84 wagon, unoficially trashwagon2, i had a delco tape deck unit from a grand am mounted to the door, because i ran out of room on the dash and console with all my wires and switches! i was bumpin sonic the hedgehog reorded from the sega! you should get some shag carpet is that big copper wire on the passenger side the main wire in from the battery, you know, the post about running one through the firewall?

i would say it would be better suited for highly modded turbo setups and such, but too expensive for geneal application. an accel superstock coil with 8mm wires and .050 gap would work good as a general application the coil as roughly 30 bucks and the wires come as "make your own" and arent too much

i know, but they are still under the hood! nothing like bass ackwardsing it! i just pulled a doors windpw/lock/speaker wiring harness, after i remombered that the power window motor unclips from it! and i hate when i leave the damn 7/8 wrwnch on the crank pulley when starting the car trying to get the timing right!