SOOBOUTLAW

Has anyone sucessfully lifted the front of their EA81 rigs 1.5" without lowering the crossmember/ trans cradle? Maybe spacer blocks on top of the struts, bring top of the struts inboard 1/2" to fix camber, custom motor/tranny mounts to help axles? Maybe telescoping axleshafts along with the CV/DOJ assembly? Or are GCK axles good with excessive travel? With the adjustable struts NOT adjusted all the way up (maybe half way, for fine tuning)?

If the axle splines are always kept greased to prevent seizing, I can pop mine out in less than two mins. I don't run a welded diff yet though....

Looks like a heater core cover. Or a cover in the engine bay maybe.

Hook a wet gauge to one of the plugged fittings on the pump.

I think so...

I wanna get a Justy, they're neat lil cars.

I did some work on a Toyota truck, dude wanted me to rebuild his carb, did that, no fix. Changed cap, rotor, nothing. Always stalled out on hills.. Changed fuel filters, vrooooom!

My driver's seat is a passenger seat:grin: .

Shame on you for letting some shady mechanic molest your Subaru.

There is a standard hatch with a side mount starter EA71 at PAP, I can try to snag it if it's still there.

Could your gas tank be dirty? I've had a problem with that. Stalled right in the middle of a busy intersection in front of freeway offramp. It sucked.

I've read of someone using EA82 DOJ with EA81 shafts to get another 1/2" of extension(forgot who, but it was posted here a while back). I wonder if GCK could special order EA81 front axles with EA82 DOJ? I sure could use something like that.

I think that switch on top of the steering column is for parking lights, my bro's GF had an '87 3 door coupe, and it had that switch. Haven't messed with that car for a few years, so I'm not postive.

OOPS! double post.

I've had all kinds of wierd electrical problems with my '80 wagon, but not that (yet). I suspect gremlins. My car is plagued with em.

I've had all kinds of wierd electrical problems with my '80 wagon, but nothing like that. I suspect the common gremlin.

That's a well hung Subaru.

How do you take a Subaru EA series out of the vehicle with the tranny attached?(sawzall or torch?) I've only done it with the car upside down, ripping off the crossmember and tranny cradle. Once. Never even tried to pull the engine/tranny together the normal way. Haynes and Chilton say I couldn't.

I've seen some come with metric adaptor fittings, but they're perma tapped SAE for American vehicles(off the shelf at most auto parts stores). They probably have import stuff too but I've never checked that out yet.

No need for speed? Can I have the Weber then?

Choke works just fine, the negative insulator boot on the coil has a brownish spot on it, might be arcing. Gonna check the wiring. Might rip all the emission junk out and replace with what came with my parts wagon. The wagon ran just fine and drove good, but I didn't warm it up, just hastily parked it(front end damage, no radiator.) Also, the wagon just passed emissions in November before it got wrecked.

New carb with new motor, Hitachi. I put it on the old motor before I pulled it to see if any difference, nope. I'll check the choke and coil. Electric choke is hooked up.

Offer $500 cash. I bought my '80 wagon for $400 off a dealer back in '98.

Aluminum heads tend to warp, but the block doesn't seem to. It's weird.

Took her for a drive today, nice and smooth until it warmed up and crapped out again. So far, I've replaced the fuel filters, then the motor, the ignition coil, fuel pump controller, the fuel tank, took the gas cap off, poured some fresh Shell premium in, and yet the problem persists. I'm stumped. Any new ideas? Maybe some kind of thermoswitch controlled thing?