Sonicfrog

Look online for dual core rad. I got mine for $139.00

The newer engine is an OHSC. It's my understanding the EJ22's became inerference when they swiched the the OHDC design. I'm pretty certain the 91 ECU won't work because the wiring going to all the sensors are connected to different terminals than the 94 version.

Since the ECU I got from the boneyard was not the right one, I reinstalled the old one, plus I checked the original CKP and CMP sensors for signal generation, they passed, and I reinstalled them on the engine. I now have spark. I have gas (checked the plugs). I have no codes. But it still won't start. When I get the chance, I will re-examine the timing... again, just to make sure I didn't screw that up again. This car will run... I swear it! UPDATE: OK. I think I know what's wrong..... ME!!!!! I was checking some of the archives here on USBM and found this enlightening thread. I now know I have been making a stupid, STUPID error. When I timed the cams, I used THE ARROWS for timing instead of the little marks.:banghead::banghead: This explians why I had such a hard time fighting the cams when I was setting the belts. They kept trying to advance to the right position, and I wouldn't let them. It's getting late here on the west coast, but I may just go out to the garage and fix this once and for all!

Your welcome. Do I get a cookie for the effort???

I'm late to the party, but have had overheating issues with Murphy, the $500 87 T-Wag. I had similar issues with heat fluxuations on my meter. It would kinda wonder around, never staying in one place for too long. Plus I was blowing through cooling system hoses like crazy. Turns out my radiator was a bit on the clogged side, and since I had the crappy 3 speed auto tranny, which makes your engine run at high RPM's all the time, I was building up way too much backpressure in the cooling system. The EA82 T is not very forgiving of overheating, and I learned the hard way - blown head gaskets.... twice. If you haven't already done so, I would highly recommend replacing your radiator with a dual core type. This may go a long way to resolveing your temp issues. PS. Oh, watch for the little coolant hose right under the turbo. I had a leak in that one once. The leak was hard to spot since the water was squirting on the hot block and evaporating before it could drip to the ground, and that hose is a beyatch to get to - have to remove the turbo - no short-cuts around it.

I did that conversion. The front passenger air shock on Muphy, the $500 87 T-Wag, would leak overnight, and the car would look drunk the next morning. Eventualy, the air pump gave out completely, so I ended up doing the swap. If you have the budget, I would buy new struts instead of using junkyard stuff, because you don't know how good the junkyard struts are; they may be bad. If you don't have $$$ for new pull complete strut assembleys for all four wheels. If you do have the $$$, go to the boneyard, and pull the following: Springs and top brackets for the front, and springs / mounting brackets for the back. If you like a firmer ride with better handling, pull the front springs / strut assembly from an RX sedan / coupe if there is one in the yard. They're stiffer than the standard wagon front springs. Do not pull the backs from that car though, as they are not as stiff as the wagon. When you go to the yard, bring a suspension spring compressor and a pry bar with you. It will make your task a heck of a lot easier. I tried it without, and lets just say I learned my lesson. PS. If you want to be adventurous, I hear you can use fornt springs from an 87 - 89 Honda Accord on the back of the GL / Loyale wagons. I haven't done it though, and I would search the forum for more opinions or pro's / con's on that before deciding.

I talked to the dealer yesterday, and ECU's are NOT compatible across transmision or year differences. I would need to get an ECU from a car with the same tranny, and the manufacture date would have to be after 06/03.

Will do. Thanks.

UPDATE: Got the new ECU and ignitor from the junkyard. The car still isn't running... BUT, a few things are resolved. I now have spark. If I unplug the CKP sensor, I do get an error - BUT I'm getting an error of 1.3, which is the CAMSHAFT position sensor. I wonder if the two sensors are wired into the wrong harness? When I put everything back together, the white CKP harness was on the top and the gray CMP harness was just underneath on the harness bracket, mounted at the back of engine near the tranny. I also now get a 4.9 code - MAP sensor. Have run out of time to work on the car today. will attack it again in a few days. PS. Curious, would it make a difference if I pulled the ECU from a car that has a different tranny in it? I pulled one with the same 5 speed tranny as mine, but different year. There was a 94 in the yard but it was an auto tranny, so I went with the tranny match instead matching the year.

The Crankshaft sensor was slightly smaller on the newer engine, so I did splice that one in. But even if I unplug it, the ECU still won't throw a code for a bad CKS.

OK. I DO get spark out of ingition coil, BUT only at the moment when you stop cranking the motor. I connected the black code plugs, and the check engine light blinked on / off, with no code. I then dissconected the cam sensor, cranked the engine, and I got a code 11. So the cam sensor circuit is OK. After reconnecting the cam sensor and clearing the codes, I then checked the the crankshaft sensor in the same fashion - no codes. So, I'm leaning toward a bad ECU circuit controling the cranksensor and spark. I will drop down to the J-Yard and pull another and see where this goes.

I finished putting "Red" together, but it won't start. First off, I rechecked the timing via the belt, and some gemlins got in there and screwed it up - it was way off on the crankshaift. I know it was gremlins because I could NEVER make a mistake like that! So, I fixed that, but it still won't start. Turns out I have no spark. What are the usual culprits? Here is what I have checked so far: I checked the lead to the magnetic sensor at the crank pulley, and it has continuity (I did have to splice the wires leading to that sensor and hopefully I connected the right ones). I swapped the coil with a spare from the newer engine. Went under steering to connect green jumpers to check codes, and found the jumpers already connected, which suggests the previous owner may have had the same problem, or he drove around with it like that. At this point, I'm leaning toward a dead ECU. But I may be missing something, like a fuse or something simple. Anyway, I'm done for the night and will check back in the morning. PS. How does that coil know which plug to send the spark to? There are only three wires going to the coil. Logic dictates there should be four, but since the thing is ccomputer controlled, it is operating using greater logic than I could. Also, are the cooling fans supposed to cycle when the key is in the "on"? Scratch that last question. Since I disconnected the green leads, the fans don't cycle anymore.

OK. I finally got everything together.. and Red won't start. It sounds like a timing poblem. Where is the ECU code light located? I had a lot of alcohol 2nite, so be easy on me.

Why do I need another Subaru??? Because! That's Why!!! If it doesn't swap over easily, I'm not gonna bother with it.

Oh, 91L, that's priceless!!! ....but since I'm not sludging through snow banks anytime soon, and since I've had a couple of roadside repairs that were a breeze in the absense of covers, I'm still voting for nekked T-belts.

I found the heater thingy. It's underneath the engine, between the driver side exhaust and the oil pan. It screws into the block. I'll take a pic tomorrow.

Where is the heating device located at? Since I installed a different engine do I have to remove the heater from the old one????

Yes, the large end is a standard plug for a 120 volt wall socket you would find in your livingroom. It was on my old, dead EJ22. One end was at the bottom of the oil dipstic tube, the other by the flywheel window at the top of the tranny. I took it off last November and don't remember if it was connected to anything.

Rio, look at Attarco in San Fran / Stockton. I got my 94 EJ22 for $599 including tax, and they shipped for free. This is the second engine i have bought from them. PS. I may have "Red", the $300 Alpine Wagon running tomorrow, with an Attarco engine inside.

I was connecting the exhaust manifold to the new engine I installed in "Red", the $300 94 Alpine Wagon, when I noticed the driverside PS boot is fubar'd. They look easy enough to replace, but the Chiltons guide doesn't cover this repair. Any tips from those who have done this repair? Oh, I just called the local Pep Boys to see if they had a boot in stock, and the guy asked me "does the power steering boot goes on the cv axle?". Uhm, thanks. I think I'll get it from the dealer.

Booo!!! Front end looks like a Chrysler!

I have some and will post them.... if I can still find them

I say it's a clogged catalitic converter. That will zap your power at highway speeds and make the car overheat.

Hey, you need to share that cookie. I was right there with you!!!

If your dash is an analogue, not digital, with only a speedo, I would think another analogue with a tach would plug right in, but I could be wrong. The oil pressure and voltage meter would need to be wired in. If yours is a digital, then yes, there is a lot of rewiring to do. I did the conversion last summer, it's not hard, but it is time consuming.