The Beast I Drive

Ok. Kiwishooter has offered to collect, pack, and ship up to 10 D/R EJ transmissions from New Zealand to the US, for a Very reasonable price at that. I can understand why he doesnt want to spend more of his time than he has to for little to no profit. Regardless of what gear ratios will be sent here, Im sure there will be buyers. As for figuring the gear ratios, quickest easiest way would be to look at the tag on the rear diff. Typically, the rear diff ratio is a pretty good indication of what the trans gear ratio is (as Kiwi has already stated, the trannies are still in the cars) Also the door jam tag might have that info as well. As far as arguing and bickering and picking at one another, grow up people. GD if you want to argue over opinions, nit-pick at everything Kiwi says, and mar and slander every one of these EJ DR threads, feel free to do so. You have proven you can. But I and Im sure many others would appreciate it if you would stop. Its childish and stupid, if you have a problem with Kiwi or his merits/methods/reputation, take it to PM where it belongs in the first place. Good luck to all on this deal, if I was into the EJ vehicles Id be in on this deal, but Im an EA faithful... -Bill

Quick question, did the 1600 have the side mount starter? If it did, how much would you want for that motor? -Bill

I am running 31" tires with an EA81 and it works just fine, and Im still using the stock Subaru drivetrain, no T-case. Its a little gutless on steep hills, but with the extra gears you have that wont be a problem. -Bill

Idk, Ive heard different responses to that idea from several places, some say it would be non-interference becasue of the Phase 1 EJ22 heads, others say it would still be intereference becasue of the stroke on the 2.5 block... I honestly dont know... -Bill

I do compensate for camber, so it should all line up like stock for the EA81's though you will have to do a little hammer work on the inside of the strut towers, there just isnt any way around this... On the EA82's there is more clearance in the strut towers and hammering is not required... -Bill

Checking Pm's... Ill be making some strut blocks this weekend to pass the time while I wait for Earl to come up... 4" for EA82? Or EA81? I keep forgetting which one it is... Also, anyone else interested in camber correct, 1/4 thick steel, strut blocks, please let me know ASAP and I will try to get them all done this weekend, just let me know if they are for EA71/EA81, or EA82. They will be $40 a pair no matter what size. Thanks, and sorry RAugur, Ive been dragging my feet on this really bad and Im sorry if I've irritated or frustrated you in any way... -Bill

send a Private Message to Bratsrus1 here on the board... He makes a kit that will allow you to bolt in a 5 speed with little to no modification... Even uses the stock levers inside. -Bill

They never made Jackman wagon wheels that would fit anything other than Gen 1-Gen 3 Subarus... So chances are you wont find any. -Bill

He's running a 390cfm Holley 4 bbl... You can get that damn near anywhere, or have it ordered in next day... -Bill

What timing belt did you use? Im assuming the EJ22 Phase 2 belt... I have been collecting parts and knowledge to build one of these myself, but Im going to be using Phase 1 EJ22 heads instead of Phase 2, and Ill but running Dual Weber IDF 40 carbs... The main thing I havent figured out yet is what timing belt to use, I figure the EJ22 belt, but I would like some clarification... -Bill

If you are trying to replace a front axle, do just what Monstaru said. If you are trying to replace a Rear axle, put the brakes and the crown nut back on. The rear axles slide onto a stub at the wheel just like they do the diff, all you need to do is drive out the roll pin, and slide it off the stub. You might have to loosen the 2 nuts that hold the diff on the mustache bar to move it around some to do this, and you might need some penetrating oil (apparently Auto Tranny fluid works pretty good... Or get some PB Blaster), maybe a BFH and possibly a torch, if it doesnt want to slide... The stub stays in the hub and you don't even need to take the wheel off! -Bill

I found a 100 amp Chevy alternator that fits perfect, all you need is one of those curved alternator brackets from a small block chevy (available at any auto store) The part number is 7290-9, I think thats a USA Industries part no., and I forget the application but it has the same case as a regular 60 amp alt for a 73 Chevy pick Up... -Bill

I have a 86 GL wagon with a hitch that bolts up where the towhooks go as well as to the floor of the storage hatch... I built a tow hitch for a GL Coupe that bolts up using a bracket that slides in between the bumper mounts and the body and then wraps down to the towhooks, but Coupe bumpers mount totally different than the wagon bumpers.... -Bill

If the car the motor came out of had an oil gauge, then it has a different sending unit than the motor from the Loyal with the idiot light. You need to swap out the sending units and that should solve the problem. -Bill

I actually have 2 other 85's, and the mirrors are the same as all the other GLs I have... I think theses were just a random option, or maybe a "sport" option or something of the like... As for the harvester, I dont have any good pics ATM, but its a hop harvester and is pretty much only used in the NW, the Europeans pick hops with a different method... Ill try to get some pics up after work tomorrow... -Bill

It is D/R 4wd, 5 speed, the mirrors are just like the ones on Jeszek's Loyale, I guess they were some kind of option? They are still power mirrors, but they are different from the ones on the other GLs and DLs that I have... The color is close to the original color, but it has been repainted once... -Bill

Did you charge the battery? If you drove it home with the alternator disconnected, it was not charging the battery, and your ignition was being powered solely by the battery's charge. It should be dead as a doornail and will need to be charged... Then try it again. -Bill

I didnt get nearly as much done this weekend as I wanted to. I wanted to do the heater core in my '80 Brat, as well as install a CD player. But that didnt happen because I need foam for all the heater doors in the unit... So then I decided to work on this When I got it it would not move under its own power, both the front and rear driver side hubs were stripped out. So I replaced those hubs and now it drives It runs like crap ATM though, massive exhaust leak, disconnected lines/hoses everywhere, etc... I wanted to fix the exhaust leak at the least but had to go to work to fix a harvester.... At least I got it to move on its own though. Eventually I will fix the exhaust and put one of my Weber carbs on it, maybe clean it up a little (wont matter much, it has almost as much rust as Rusty) and replace the bumper and broken corner light. -Bill

Talk about Legos man, its amazing how so many parts from so many cars can all come together into one to make something spectacular! Its the trans that woulda been on the FF-1 if they had continued making it into the '80s -Bill

Right on, those gears will make your car drivable at today's speeds and get decent fuel economy :banana: Did you use any parts from the tranny I sold you? If you did, its not a '74, but a '73 IIRC... Not that it matters though -Bill

Make sure you have good weather stripping, window seals, and vent seals, it would suck to have your brand new interior get ruined by one good heavy rain... -Bill

They should be good, Ill check them out. Might be a week or 2 before I pull anything though -Bill

well, looks like I *might* be able to acquire a totalled out '97 Isuzu Rodeo 2wd as well... My buddy's sister just got T-boned by a semi.... Luckily she is OK, but the car I here is toast, but it was pretty nice. It has the 6 lug wheels and a solid axle with DISC BRAKES (i know they are good, I changed the pads on Saturday :-\) and if I get it I will be using that axle instead of the Mazda axle. Also the Rodeo has 16" wheels, if they are all good *and* IF i acquire them they will be for sale.... -Bill

Robbie and I thought about this a bit, but decided against it becasue the XT has a lot more structure behind the seat and in the roof than say a 3 door, and because Robbie had a perfectly good 3 door already.... It would be cool to see this finished though, it will prolly look funky, but thats because XT's are funky looking to begin with.... -Bill

Bad guys are cooler, what can I say? Im a fan of villains..... -Bill