The Scooby

no im not having problems, its being a kill switch, so i can kill it when i park in places i dont trust.

hey everyone, so far the only person i have meet was Bratwerst at the bone yard by chance. i was wondering, im gettin my lisence back april 3rd, and that following week is my spring break, so i wanted to know if we could get a mini meet together or something. maybe go muddin or soemthing. what does everyone think? Shean

very nice, no offence, but one complaint about subaru's that i have is the skinny tires, i think it looks funny. but alltogether, sweet lookin ride, i like the gaurd on the front.

ok tried a search but didnt find what i needed. i need the power wire and ground wire for my fuel pump. 1986 GL 4x4 5sp wagon, carbed. and how i could use the stock relay as the switch and use a lower powered toggle to turn it off and on. if you dont understand what i mean please ask and i will try to eloberate. Thanks, Shean

well it started after i spripped the emissions, but it also cured my studder problem around 2k when driving. so looks as if im going to be putting some caps on, and try to keep trackin it down.

alrighty ill have to check that out tomarrow

oh sweet thanks for that heads up, ill have to call up some of those bone yards, and i can only hope i get dips on parts commin in. Shean

ya i figured vacume leak, but wasnt sure, i have been sprayin starting fluid, ive used up 2 full cans now trying to find it, and cant find anything. but when i do its on hoses that i never touched, maybe since the other junk is gone it magnified the others. looks like im replacing the rest of that junk. Thanks, Shean oh, can i just run a hose from one vacume port to another rather then cappin it off, thats what i did on alot of stuff, or should i just cap them?

bump

thanks guys, and girl, for the leads, i hope i can get one as soon as i get down there, i need to clear atleast 1200 a month to pay for everything and have a few bucks to save up for the scooby's. Thanks, Shean

ok well a little while ago i hooked up a vacume gauge to the engine, well when the engine is warm and at idle the needle is very rapidly bouncing from about 10 to 15, but when you give the engine a little gas to bring up the RPM's its stable. also the engine runs REALLY ruff at idle, but fine at any other time through the RPM band. i recently stripped most fo the emissions, i left on the things taht put air into the exhaust, but pluged them. can someone please give me some ideas on what i can do to fix my problem? Thanks, Shean

i think it just broke the bolt so he lost intrest, if it stripped it ill helicoil it, spray on some WD40, and toss it together and see what happends.

well there is a TAD, i mean very light coating of surface rust that i could take off with my finger nail. the engine has not problems, all that was wrong was it blea a head gasket so he replaced both. his neighbor came over to help and broke a bolt off into the cam box while putting the cam cover on.

bingo

ok the 87 wagon i bought a few weeks ago now. it has sat for about a year with the driver side valve cover off, the cam looks to be in good shape, really no rust on it or anything. what do you guys reccomend? change the cams from my other engine i got onto this one and finish putting everything back together? or put in the other engine i got, but the otehr engine is a EA82 bolted to a manual 2wd tranny, and without taking out my auto tranny how hord would it be to put in the new engine and bolt it up to the auto tranny. i was thinking just pull the old engine, put the flexplate on the new motor, drop her back in, and bold the flex plate up and im done really, just like a chevy? Thanks Shean

i come here for both, it kinda sucks that the off-topic forum got ka-put but i clearly understand why, oh well, still a absolutly great place and i am very greatful to be a part of this. keep up the great place guys. Shean:burnout:

that is a freakin beast, i would love to have that rig, beautiful job man. what a great car. Shean

good job goatboy, im glad someone did that so people weren't ripped off.

for the help with wiring my kill switch. you guys gave extremely quick responces, and i thank you very much. switch works as planed, everything went without a hitch, try to turn the car over with the switch off, everything lights up, and starter clicks like it should, but wont crank. turn the switch on, and she turns over like a charm. i had my brother try to use my car to take us to get some lunch and i let him try to get it to start for like 5 minutes, then i told him to pop the hood, when he did that i flipped the switch so he wouldn;t see where it was, and bingo, she starts. i love it, now i just have to wire up the fuel pump kill. Thanks again guys, Shean

its easier if you just look through the pictures... Shean

those are sweet at hell man, would look great on the car. Shean

thats a good idea, but i think when and if it does happen they will saw screw it. i went and also picked up another universale ignition switch that takes a key, so now it take the flip of 2 switched, igniotn power and fuel pump power, then this key, and then the on on the steering collum to start the car. so if they do try to just pop the collum they are gonna have a hell of a time. but im not sure if im gonna use the second keyed one, maybe use that one as a coil killer.

no what i ment is run it with the relay and the switch, not wire it into teh same switch as the ignition. make two completely different systems. i was just wondering if i would wire the relay and switch the same as the ignition one for the other one for the fuel pump. that make it more clear?? Shean

ya i know about the roads everthing is just a big square inside a larger one basically. and im going to UTI automotive tech school.

so could i also wire my fuel pump switch like that also, but instead of the ignition wire its the wire to the fuel pump??