carfreak85

The Addco bar is larger than all OEM EA81 anti-roll bars. I would have one already, but I'm too cheap. Plus, it might not clear my 3" downpipe from what renob123 says... In terms of anti-roll bar sizes, bigger is better in camber-limited vehicles like the EA81. That being said, I would try to maximize camber via control arm modification, suspension mount relocation, lowering with 2WD suspension parts and playing with slop in the mounts before adding a monster-sized anti-roll bar. Bigger is better, but bigger also means very harsh one-wheel-bump events, and could lead to more understeer if you go too big. That being said, I don't think anyone manufactures a bar that is "too big" for our cars. Adding a rear anti-roll bar from an EA82 or Addco/Whiteline would help balance out the added front end roll-stiffness, shifting the handling balance closer to neutral.

Since you replaced all other parts in the system, I would be leaning toward the distributor or the ignitor. My manuals are unaccessable ATM, but if the problem persists, I can drag them out.

The Fulltime 4WD trans out of an RX or EA82T.

*Fixed* I meant EA81. Tons of EA82s came with the line-installed sunroof. On the EA81, it seems like the line-installed sunroofs are much harder to find versus dealer-installed units.

DL optional center arm rest Kamei spoiler Foha spoiler Enkei wheels 14" wheels (Not Peugeot) 15" wheels (Not Peugeot) Wagon/hatch wind deflectors Extruded aluminum EA81 wagon trailer-hitch-equipped rear bumper Headlight washers - From Oz/NZ Three point EA81 wagon rear seat belts - From Oz/NZ Factory installed EA81 sunroof EA81 turbo'ed cars EA81T power steering fluid bib EA81 wagon/hatch cargo cover EA81 fog light and dealer installed cruise control switches I'll think up some more eventually... Oh yeah, a key to lock the glovebox on an EA81... Got mine!

Mmmmmmm, no, it doesn't. That is a planetary gear set. It acts in a similar way to a CVT, but is much different. In fact, it is the exact same type of transmission found in nearly all automatic tranmissions, since, well, when the auto was invented. Hell, the Ford Model T used a planetary gear set for god's sake... http://eahart.com/prius/psd/ <--- This has a nice gif of a planetary gear set and the site explains the Prius' "power split device" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_Synergy_Drive <--- Explains how 'Yota hybrids operate http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhFK5g*********pM <--- Short video explaining CVT operation Don't get me started on the Prius.

GD - Just did a quick search to identify exactly what a Reeves CVT is... Unfortunately, this "Reeves" drive CVT is in fact also known as the "crappy type", known to fail in just about every application they are installed in. You are probably thinking of a Extroid CVT or a Cone CVT. CVTs are great in concept, but I have yet to see one "over-built" enough to cope with the rigors of a non-laboratory environment. For a CVT to be reliable (a.k.a. last the life of the vehicle) they will need to be double the size of a current automatic slush-box. Besides, using your left foot for a clutch will better balance your musculature.

In the U.S., most cars will be heavier on the drivers side. No steering wheel, pedals, brake booster, (power seat if you have it), etc, etc. Yeah, left will always be heavier. Next time you see a Road and Track magazine, check out the spec box on a full vehicle review. The weight distribution will favor the driver's side, 9 out of 10 times.

Where were you able to source a complete AWIC kit? I would have asked when you were up here, but the rain was nuts!

As an engineer, I don't like the idea of metal slipping on metal, even if its in a fluid bath. Several manufacturers have attempted to install CVTs in their vehicles, all have failed. The problem is not with the CVT design itsself, but that the manufacturers assume that the end user is more intelligent than they really are. If the general population babied their cars the way Subaru hopes they do, no CVTs die. If American treat their new CVT-powered OB like the then-new STIs in 2004, yeah, everything is going to get replaced at some point. Subaru offers a 6 speed on legacys and OBs now, go with that. Tried, true, better mileage, more driver control, safer. End of story.

Stay away from the CVT. Unless you like spending time at the dealer. Do a google search on subaru CVT recalls or TSBs.

Beware, Subarus are an agressive brand. If you bring that DL home, it might start bullying your other cars and inviting more Subarus to hang out at your place, forcing all other brands out of your driveway. These are great little cars and you will love yours, I'm sure. Doesn't hurt that they are cheap as chips to repair and, the 80's models anyway, are SOOOOO easy to work on. Keep us updated!

I LOVE the Miata tire size calculator. I can't tell you how many recommendations I've made on tire size using that site. PRICELESS!!!

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Until someone with an electrical engineering degree sits down and fully maps one of these things, my suggestion is to ditch them. The dash wiring harness and analog console both bolt in and you can always save the digi harness and cluster for the day someone figures them out. Until then, they are the most unreliable part of the car...

Rob, that is not normal, FOR SURE... I would suggest swapping our the digi-dash for a regular analog dash. Can be done over a long day if you already have everything needed.

This happened to our bugeye. As a guy currently rebuilding his engine, I would recommend a new longblock. It costs more up front, but it is "drop in easy" and you can always sell parts off the original engine to recoup some of the costs.

I'm glad someone is talking about this! I've been slowly building a pile of parts in my basement to thrash on my wagon, and a complete brake overhaul is in order; rebuild calipers, new lines, new pads, rotors, Motul RBF600. Still a ways off on actually putting it all together, but I have chosen the paint (Not sure what temp powder is good to...) VHT has some really nice sounding rattle can paint that is resistant up to 900*F, and is impervious to brake fluid and solvents. I have yet to spray the calipers, but I will post pics when complete, whenever that happens.

Qman and I are saying the opposite. I reclocked the rear torsion bars by a single tooth. Yes, it rides the bump stops and sucks over broken pavement, but it doesn't swerve across the road on big bumps, nor is it unsafe. Been that way going on four years.

Putting an EJ22 in there would be more worth your time than an EA82...

Go ahead and lower it. It will not pose a safty risk, nor will it be a permanent modification that can't be undone. I've been running my EA81T wagon in a lowered position going on four years now without any ill effect. Sounds to me like the haters out there are jealous that they don't have a spare BRAT to lower. If you think he shouldn't lower it, start your own thread, ajs425, or hit me up and check out mine. We live in the same city...

You've been here a few weeks now, so the time has come for you to get intimate with the search function. Here is what I found when searching for threads about lowering an EA81: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94001&highlight=lower http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74356&highlight=lower http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64473&highlight=lower

What is your plan for the front and rear windshield gaskets? My front one needs to be replaced this season...