carfreak85

As far as Megan Racing goes: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/1932/hks-to-close-us-operations-save-hks-usa.aspx http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2351/dont-buy-fake-************--a-close-look-at-a-fake.aspx Fake or ripped-off parts are killing true innovators in the aftermarket scene. I used to be all about buying the cheapest parts that would work, but have since been more dertermined about buying only quality-parts. Often that means they are used quality-parts, the only way I can afford most of them.

Hmmmmm, interesting... The gf and I are free that day, maybe I could fire up the ole '84 and roll her (the car) up there.

Stock-sized Peugeot tires on 15" rims rubbed on my stock-ride height '84 wagon in the front on full lock or on a hard compression while driving. No idea about 14"s.

If the digidash works, great! But be warned, they will all eventually go... I swapped to an analog set, and it works pretty well, but not perfectly. I would look for something that has analog gauges already, unless you are willing to get REALLY familiar with your new car.

I.ll scan it for you tonight...

EA81Ts!!! I just took a peek at my '84 w/ TSB kit and coolant is pulled from below the thermostat housing, over the top of the engine to the turbo. The return line drops out below the turbo's bearing housing, wraps around the valve cover and dumps into the leading edge of the bottom of the passenger's side cylinder head. What turbo you want depends on what you are willing to do for the sake of durability and what your budget will allow. I ended up having a custom stainless header built because my factory one cracked badly on the return leg of a road trip to Whistler, B.C. This is the result: A link to more pictures can be found in my profile. I could have gone with a larger turbo, given the opportunity to change the turbine inlet flange. I may in the future, but I just got my WRX back on the road and funds need to go elsewhere before I can come back to the wagon. I would say that you probably want a water-cooled turbo for increased longevity, but if you are fastidious about warm-up and cool-down procedures and oil changes/maintenece, an oil-cooled turbo is all you need, but you have less of a magin of error.

I was reading an article on motoiq.com (awesome site for car/engineering nerds) and I think the trans and rear diff are from the lexus IS series, which have pretty good aftermarket support.

What is the status of your T-coupe? The $200 asking price has me scared to ask...

The 3.5" thread was probably mine. I've also put in 4x6s and would do thosein. The driver's side might bolt in, may need to use the oem speaker to mark new holes to be drilled on the new speaker chassis. The driver's side oem speaker is an odd 5x3" size. I have jammed a 4x6 in there, but whatever you can get in there will have to work, it's a pretty tiny space. Also, the factory stereo uses a common ground arrangement for the speakers, so you shoul run new wires for those.

Google and ebay will probably be your best friend, unless you can find a NOS turbo, or a really nice one that someone has squirrled away. The VF-11 is getting old and rare, which is the primary reason NOT to rebuild the VF-3 (or 2 or 4) that your car has right now. TD04 is another option, and there are TONS of those that WRX guys are ditching right now, that would be my suggestion, although it is quite a bit larger than the original one and may make the car very laggy...

Actually, that is his truck! Wow, small world.

Count me in for at least two.

This reminds me of the truck one of my coworkers owns. Ford and Mazda colaborated on this truck, but IMHO, the mazda version is way cooler because it came with a rotary engine. This is not his, but the one owned by my coworker has a 13B engine from a Turbo II RX7 swapped in with the addition of a 7" supercharger. What a sweet truck that is!

I have a feeling that almost nobody on this board has run a UOA, or at least those few have not posted about it in a LONG time. Thanks for sharing! Could you link to the chart for us? Do you plan on doing another sample in the future?

I'll be keeping my eye on this, I have a couple EA81Ts that might be getting rebuilt in the near-ish future.

I've got one and love it! Not the fastest, most economical car, but it turns heads and is fantastic on road trips.

This is ooooooooold!~!~~!~ Interesting to see what approach Fuji will take, IF they make it to market by next year.

Are your engine mounts and pitch stopper in serviceable condition? If they are torn or loose, the engine can rock around a fair amount. Transmission mounts too. Otherwise, maybe you missed the lower mounts on the core support and it was too close? Did the previous owner install a spacer behind the fan? If I were you, I would wire in a second electric fan and ditch the mechanical one, it robs precious HP and makes your cool rally wagon sound like a pickup truck... I was fortunate enough to stumble onto an OEM aux. fan, but you could use an aftermarket one just as easily.

I'm pretty sure that Exedy is the OEM manufacturer for the EJ20+ clutches, so either way!

Got a larger copy of that image? I can pass it along to a friend and hopefully find out what that caption says.

Anything with molybendium disulfide is what you want.

I could tell you what I run (1.5" primaries, 1.75" to the turbo, 3" DP, 2.5" catless to a flowmaster American Thunder muffler) or I could point you to some information. I designed part of my exhaust (the header mostly) using info from these authors. They know their stuff and I trust their opinions and advice. Read and learn: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/articletype/articleview/articleid/900/how-to-make-your-own-effective-exhaust-system.aspx

The radius rod plates are found on EA81s. You need the manual transmission version to replace your auto-specific ones.

Russ, keep me updated on those wheels!