carfreak85

I am interested in more data on these. What material are you planning to make them out of? Obviously your prototypes are aluminum, but what grade? Any heat treating planned? You have 5,000km on them so far. Great! What is the maximum speed you have tested them to? Do you have any plans to do any V-max testing, or will there be a suggested ceiling? What sort of runouts numbers are you shooting for and will there be any balancing going on? Have you considered having holes machined to allow the OEM hub/adapter assembly to be unbolted from the upright as a unit? These are NOT criticisms of your planned product, I just want to be sure that these will be safe and durable.

Interesting choice in intercoolers... From what I've read, the supersized TMICs are notorious for heat soak and are generally regarded as all show, no go parts. Might want to think about swapping back to the OEM part. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2126473&highlight=tmic Obviously this is your car and you can choose to do with it what you like, in fact I have debated making this post since your initial post, but finally decided to. Again, not intended to be critical, just some food for thought.

Planning to flood the market, eh? Starting to look like my shed! That dash is AMAZING, btw, score of the century... So far...

Here here...

Part it. Sorry, but unless the replacement parts are free along with the time to do a TON of quality welding, this one is a loss. May her parts live on...

Momo no longer manufactures the ea81 adapters.

I have two sets of wheel adapters that I am never going to use if anyone is interested. one is 4x100 and the other is 4x114.3 I can send photos to whoever wants them.

On my EA81T with the factory, thermo-controlled oil cooler, the Autometer oil temp gauge I have installed in the oil pan is usually pretty high. I think oil starts to break down around 260*F and my car is usually over that... Maybe the thermostat in the filter sandwich is stuck closed on my car? Anyway, 240*F in the winter is still darn hot. Keep an eye on it as the ambient temps start to creep up. Make that trip to Pasco in the summer and I'd be willing to bet you'll be over 260*F.

Pull one of your side view mirrors or pull the door panel, look for wires. Alternatively, you could look for the connector behind the console, should be pretty easy, considering there is no console...

Yes, but he is looking to use it on an EA81T. The 84 FSM does NOT, to the best of my memory, cover any EA81T-specific wiring diagrams. If he had a regular old carb'd wagon, yeah the standard FSM is all he needs.

Those will be very helpful on most '84s and you will need them for the basic info on many operations. However, neither one will have a ton of info on EA81Ts. There are two supplements to look for, one for mechanical and one for electrical. Those are the manuals that really hold all the secrets.

The window might not be working because they are not the correct switches. Additionally, at least on my wagon, the rear window switches afe auto up/down and have more wires than the regular ea81 power window switches.

Stop. Do not touch another bolt on that car until you have done some research. I am more that happy to help you if you run into any problems since I have done this swap before, but all the questions you've posted here are in the forums or the USRM. Do your due diligance, and come back after you have read everything on this topic. Twice. Then read them all again. Also, please check your spelling and grammer. It makes it easier to read and once you're out of school, you'll have no excuse when somone flames you for it. Holes, not "wholes".

Rip that p.o.s. out and throw it as far away as you can. Once those start to go bad, there is no saving them. Apple cored govener gears, dead 3rd gear, etc. Ea82 d/r 5 speed and be done. Not bolt in at all (no d/r will be into an auto chassis) but totally transforms the car.

Keep us updated on your progress, looks pretty good for a free car!

Spent over $100 on a 5 gallon pail of Redline oil only to have my then-new HF pail pump fill the oil with metal shavings as I pumped it into a graduated cylinder. I HATE HF, tarps and other BS only. All tools/hard parts will be quality from now on...

Neat review! Makes me want to get my '75 back on the road!

Yeah, what Hatchsub said! If you ever decide to sell that puppy, make sure you give us first crack!

No, they were never sold in the U.S. I think they were commissioned by Subaru of AU and I'm never quick enough to snag them off of Nasioc when they pop up... Other things I would be interested in are: EA81 headlamp washer system with nozzles, water tank, button, relay, hardware, etc. and a set of tan EA81 wagon rear shoulder-belt harnesses, the three point style harnesses. I would happily pay for any/all of these parts!

I would be interested in several sets of the bugeye WRX headlamp protectors. The clear plastic ones that mount over the headlamps.

Hmmmm, sounds like the OEM, long-style bar is the beefyer of the two options. That is what I would go with. Function over form ftw! As for fitment, it will fit any EA81 from 1980-89, assuming it is the same basic front end as the car you are working on. Brat, wagon, hatch, coupe and sedan share sheetmetal from the a-pillars forward. No idea what other "makes" this bar might fit, but excluding the actual mounting points, anything with the same general dimensions should be close. Vw golf/rabbit comes to mind... I really like the stuff you've done for bugeyes, I would have a wonch bar on my WRX, but can't justify the added weight...

Hahaha, well now you've got me curious! And I forgot to even talk about IR thermometers, one of which I've just bought! GD, on the backpressure topic, I have my #3 cylinder tapped for an EGT probe. The gauge isn't working, and I've been meaning to pull the probe out and test it. While I'm doing this, I will test the backpressure of my mostly stock WRX exhaust. On the IR topic, I bought a Craftsman 1:6 IR thermometer. It reads from -4 to 500*F, +/- 3*F from -4 to 20*F and +/- 3% or 7.5*F from 20 to 500*F. Not a wide enough range to take external readings of a hot turbocharger, but plenty good enough to read tires, exhaust, intercoolers, etc.

I'm sure if you started reproducing the factory A-bars (Long or short style) you'd be able to sell a decent number of them, but demand would probably be limited...

Sorry, but I must respectively disagree. On an OEM exhaust system, if you are measuring exhaust pressure before the muffler, cat, turbo, etc. can be anywhere from 15-45psi from the factory. It just depends on the construction chosen by the engineers. Even on a cat-less, muffler-less racing exhaust system, 2psi is really, really good, if it reaches back to the rear bumper... That is why fitting a large diameter, high-flow exhaust system to a turbocharged car can produce such significant power gains on its own, you are creating a large pressure drop across the turbine, encouraging the hot exhaust gasses through the turbo as quickly as possible. One way to check to see if the cat has plugged up, besides GD's pressure test, is to remove the pipe that has the cat in it and shine a light down one end and look down the other end. If you can't see the light reflecting down that short length of tube, your cat is probably toast. If you can see some light, or a lot of light, your cat is probably still in good shape structurally.

I used to own a set of the Scorros and in terms of availability, they are harder to find versus the Enkei rims. That said, I prefer the Enkeis.