carfreak85

2002 WRX, drive-by-cable. Battery was connected, car was running when it happened.

Banjo bolt screens Oil pickup tube Cracked ring lands Aaaaand GO!

I had one fellow on NASIOC suggest that it could be an IAC gasket issue, but I don’t have any sort of idle problems. The engine has only misbehaved during the coolant burp procedure.

My WRX front bearings aren't sealed...

What is TSB?

Fixed...

I had to solve this problem late last year. After owning my 5-speed swapped EA81 for 10 years, replacing the pedal box, transmission mounts and clutch cable all conspired to reveal that there wasn't enough throw in the clutch pedal to fully disengage the clutch. I had not known this for 10 years, due to the amount of slop in the system. After fretting about the situation and reading some of what jono had already posted, I decided the simplest solution would be to extend the throw of the original EA81 clutch pedal. EA81 in the foreground, EA82 in the background. Cut and ready to extend. EA82 lever arm welded to an EA81 pedal. Ignore my ugly weld. This was incredibly simple once the measuring and cutting is finished. I would suggest going this route for simplicity's sake. Less modification means less chance for error.

Yes, although it was hard to hear over the exhaust.

After replacing my radiator I started with a distilled water/white vinegar mix, then three rounds of water flushes. On the water flushes I used the factory-preferred method and had some pretty interesting results. Before I explain what happened, let me tell you what did NOT happen:The engine did not overheat. The temp gauge didn't budge above normal at all after reaching operating temperature. I attribute this to massaging the radiator hoses a whole bunch before capping the system each time.The check engine lamp never came on. As in, not once. Not even a flicker.I did not change throttle position at all when the phenomena began, until noted in the video.It was repeatable enough to happen on three consecutive "burps." So, what did happen? About 6 or 7 minutes into my 10 minute burp procedure, I would lose control of the throttle. Mind you, this is a drive-by-cable throttle, and I hadn't changed the throttle position at all. When this happened the rpms would drop down to about 1,250, then up to 1,750 rpm and repeat until I either floored the throttle, or backed out and let the engine idle. What the hell is going on?

False. Datsun 510s and Z cars use R160s. Hence why they steal our LSDs! Not sure about the earlier Roadsters or later ZXs.

And all the transfer gears, layshaft and bearing in the transmission too.

I think anyone interested in getting the most out of their brakes, 4-lug or 5-lug, should read this article. http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-pads/post/choose-brake-pads Where did you pick them up from, if you don't mind my asking?

Whereabouts in Bellevue are you located? We should do a mini-meet some time.

Wait, if the brakes don't stop very good, how can you lock up the tires, or even panic stop? Bleed your brakes. Inspect your calipers for sticking slides or pistons. It is not a design flaw from Subaru, it is you. Holy run-on sentence Batman! If you "dident get them as a upgrade so im not disapointed they where just cheap maybe $20 more than the cheapest set ups", then why spend the extra $20 at all? Spelling and grammer check. It's a thing.

I remember seeing you driving around Bellingham on the gold Enkeis back when I was in school. Great looking RX man, suuuuper clean!

Can you describe in a little more detail what needs to be done? I might be able to help you out.

I've got a loose N/A cam from Delta Cam, but it has a modified lobe profile, etc.

As per the 1984 service manual: Int opens: 16* btdc Int closes: 68*abdc Ext opens: 68*bbdc Ext closes: 20* atdc No word on lift.

Make sure to get numbers for an unmodified head too. As a side note to anyone who reads this thread in the future, simply turning up the boost is a far more economical way to increase engine output on a turbocharged car. Porting can net good gains for a relatively small investment on naturally aspirated engines, but in turbocharged engines, since air is being forced into vs. drawn into the engine, the shape and "straightness" of the inlet ports matters less. Not that there aren't gains to be had. The entire line of FHI engines, save for an honorable mention to the SVX, have pretty ugly intake and exhaust tracts. It's just the nature of the engine layout. It's hard for a manufacturer to sacrifice the packaging necessary to have proper intake plenums and straight ports on any production vehicle. The EA63-81 engines probably have a N/A volumetric efficiency of around 74 to 80 percent. EA82s might peek into the 80s, especially with a "spider" intake manifold. But with the EA81T/82T/EJXXXT engines, you can cheat the compromised engine design a good bit (for refrence, some N/A engines are able to achieve over one hundred percent volumetric efficiency. To contrast, not many engines score below 60 to 70 percent, showing just how bad the EA engines really are.) As far as what you should aim to improve on these heads? Definitely unshroud those valves. You'll want to knife edge the ridge in the intake port, same with the exhaust splitter. In fact, if you could extend the wall of the exhaust side, it would improve the scavenging effect of the exhaust pulses. Also on the intake side, try to make the port as straight as possible with as little material removed as possible. If you can match the profile of the valve guide to its boss, that will help the flow, but be careful not to damage the guide. You may also consider a five-angle valve job done, since the heads will be off the block. These heads, along with just about every other cylinder head FHI has ever cast, can and often do crack between the valve seats. I hesitate to remove material from just about everywhere because of this. Another thing to avoid is excessive polishing of the ports. Keeping the port walls relatively rough will produce a boundary layer between the port wall and the gas column, and will actually help speed up the flow of air into the cylinders, incrementally improving the engine's volumetric efficiency. All that said, you can't really fix the fact that this engine is going to flow like crap no matter what you do to the heads. Turn up the boost and fix what breaks next once you get it back together.

For the record, I ended up using an EA82 flywheel with five pounds of material removed from the outside radius of the flywheel. Works great and is cheaper/easier to find and modify than an XT6 flywheel.

Good for you for not buying the first car you looked at! That switch is not OEM. I would trace the wires and see where they lead you before flipping it too many times. As for the wheels, you might want to look for something with a (Numerically) higher offset. The factory wheels are like +48mm (or more) off the top of my head. Going to such a low offset wheel will put more force on your wheel bearings and will contribute to torque steer, not to mention really screwing with your Dave Point. I see you rolling your eyes at me, but +38 is not the way to go.

So you need something that bolts in the same as a Rancho 5241, but is two inches longer? How about a shock designed for a six inch suspension lift for whatever a 5241 bolts into (Since the 5241 is a four inch lift over a stock EA81 rear shock).

I spotted it in the accessory catalog the last time I was at the dealership and the parts guy immediately told me it was NLA, no longer available. (He and I go through this a lot, and you might be surprised what is and isn't NLA)

What does this fit? Got a part number?

I don't have the stock driveshaft anymore, had to get a custom one due to the 5 speed conversion. I too drove the car WAAAAY harder than I should have. It is STILL RWD though, and has been for the last four years at least.