carfreak85

Good for you for not buying the first car you looked at! That switch is not OEM. I would trace the wires and see where they lead you before flipping it too many times. As for the wheels, you might want to look for something with a (Numerically) higher offset. The factory wheels are like +48mm (or more) off the top of my head. Going to such a low offset wheel will put more force on your wheel bearings and will contribute to torque steer, not to mention really screwing with your Dave Point. I see you rolling your eyes at me, but +38 is not the way to go.

So you need something that bolts in the same as a Rancho 5241, but is two inches longer? How about a shock designed for a six inch suspension lift for whatever a 5241 bolts into (Since the 5241 is a four inch lift over a stock EA81 rear shock).

I spotted it in the accessory catalog the last time I was at the dealership and the parts guy immediately told me it was NLA, no longer available. (He and I go through this a lot, and you might be surprised what is and isn't NLA)

What does this fit? Got a part number?

I don't have the stock driveshaft anymore, had to get a custom one due to the 5 speed conversion. I too drove the car WAAAAY harder than I should have. It is STILL RWD though, and has been for the last four years at least.

I'm going to have to disagree about running in RWD indefinitely. Besides the transfer gears in the transmission, you will start do destroy the rear wheel bearings. Ask me how I know...

I'm not sure if the EJ22T has the same piston dimensions as the N/A engine, but Google is your friend in either case... http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/Sport-Compact/Subaru/ej22.aspx http://6starspeed.com/su2peenbukit.html There are tons and tons more piston companies out there, you just have to search...

Thanks for reposting this! Does anyone know where the first nine pages went? I have read this document before and have never, ever seen those missing pages...

Actually, from what I've read, you DO need to be told how to spell and use punctuation. It might seem like a trival thing, but a lot of people won't even take the time to read your posts on this board unless they can read it. It's not like talking to someone face to face where we can read lips, we have to be able to read it. We shouldn't have to decode it too. WritingbigolerunonsentencesthatjustgoonforeverandeverandeverjuststarttoallltblendtogetherandnotmakeanysensewhenyoulookatthesoupoflettersnumbersandpunctuationfartedallacrossthescreenwithnoregardforhowdifficultitmightbetodecypherforthefolkswhoAREwillingtoactuallyhelpyou. Besides all that, you are clearly a master fabricator, since you had to come ask us how to lower a car. Really? "amber kits"are one thing, but a custom lowering job is something quite different. It has to be engineered as a whole, not a single part of a system like a "camber kit." I have lowered my car, yes it was a custom job since there is zero active aftermarket for "tuning" these cars. But what do I know? You got this!

Just so we are clear, there is almost no way to go that low and "do it right" About the only way to get the "Stanced" look that people want is to lower the body on the chassis/frame, otherwise your suspension geometry and movement is severly compromised.

I finally got my hands on and EA82 clutch pedal and I don't think it is going to work well as a direct swap. The differences in geometry are just too great. I'm thinking about welding the extended EA82 cable-side arm to the EA81 pedal.

Mother's "Back to Black" works well for a few weeks at a time. Good for black or grey surfaces. I'll have to look at the bottle again, but I bought this tiny bottle of bumper stain from IPD many years ago. It works really well and lasts for years. I'll look it up when I get home.

It's not a performance thing, it's a safety thing. A MAF with the incorrect scaling can cause a lean charge condition that can quickly kill any engine. There is a reason that COBB, GetADomTune, and other tuners suggest replacing the front o2 and MAF with new parts, OEM or not. If your old MAF is toast and you just want to drive, used is fine, but the OP was asking about performance.

I'd go for a fresh casting all day long. The Flygas parts aren't even worked over yet and they make 30HP more out of the box! Plus you get injector bosses without having to supply EA81T parts from the outset.

I know that on the turbocharged EJs, most tuners recommend to replace your MAF and front o2 sensor with brand new, OEM parts before going for more power. This is because as the sensors age, their scaling can "drift," meaning values like 0, 1, 2, 3, etc are now more like -0.2, 0.8, 1.7, 2.9 and so on. Replaceing with new sensors could result in a bump in performance just by getting things back to new.

Turns out that, unlike the EA81 clutch pedal, there are no more EA82 clutch pedals in SOA's parts system. Does anyone have a servicable one they are willing to part with?

KYB all the way.

Sure, lots of people. I would contact RAM for some referrals because almost nobody on this board has ever worked with them. The problem is that these old Subarus are cheap to buy and run and that attacts a certain type of buyer. Those buyers generally aren't interested in spending big money on a cheap old car. If you do end up with RAM, I'd love to check out their work when your project is finished. I've always wanted an aircraft engine in my wagon.

I would have to just repeat the same thing. The aircraft guys know these engines inside and out, and even have gone as far as to create brand new head castings with dual intake ports, dual spark plugs and port/direct injection bosses. The Flygas heads from Italy run over $2k per pair, but you still have to figure out the dual spark plugs, intake manifold, coolant crossover tube, etc., etc. They claim 110HP and up to 125HP with their special camshaft. Add a supercahrger and they claim their engines will make 100HP/L. If that is too expensive, any quality engine builder will be able to open up your heads a bit weather or not they work on Subarus. Nobody runs a business that builds hotrod EA engines, unless you look at aircraft parts. They probalby won't get the max performance from your heads, but they are an improvement. A third alternative is to find some cheap carby EA81 heads and use them to practice porting. Once you feel comfortable, try porting your EA81T heads.

Any of the current Ea81-based aircraft engine builders would be happy to do the work I'm sure. CCR Engines might take on the work. Any decent machine/hot rod shop should be able to help out too.

Whether or not you decide to register your car as a classic/historic vehicle depends entirely on what you use it for. If it is your daily ride to work, Johnny Law might not take kindly (there are loopholes, however). On the other hand, you don't have to pay for tabs ever again (at least in WA). My '84 wagon is registered as a classic car and I have vintage, year-correct plates on it. Since it isn't my daily driver I'm not worried about limited use and as long as it is drive-able, I don't have to worry about keeping the registration up to date. I've been waiting since about 2004 for this thing to turn 30 years old (Minimum age for a classic in WA), so for me it was a no-brainer. Might not be the best route for everyone though. Thoroughly read your state's laws about collector/classic/historic cars and decide for yourself if it makes sense to register as a classic.

It did that because at a given RPM you would be moving more air with the VF11 compressor. More air in means more exhaust coming out. Eventually your little VF7 wastegate couldn't bypass enough exhaust gas around the turbine to keep the boost in check, which caused a boost spike.

I'm going to have to disagree. Siping introduces new "edges" into the tread, which helps wet and snow traction by providing more "teeth" to dig into the water/snow. While helpful for traction, these new "edges" will wear from sharp, new edges, to blunt, radiused edges. The cuts introduce a new point of wear at the surface of the tire and these new surfaces wear, just like the rest of the tire. In addition, you're cutting up the tread blocks. Now, all tires have tread blocks. These will distort as you hit a bump, roll over a pot-hole or go around a corner. When you sipe a tire you are weakening the tread block at the point where it touches all these irregularities in the road. This can cause little chunks of rubber to tear away from the edge of the sipe (called "chunking") and not only will that reduce the surface area of your contact patch, but it further weakens the tread block. It's a visious cycle. It will not extend the life of the tire. Period. Now if you can show me an SAE whitepaper that proves otherwise, I will certainly change my tune, but the fact reamains that if you cut up the surface of a tire, that surface has been weakened and will wear more quickly. Maybe not by a huge amount, but every little bit helps. Les Schwab doesn't care if your tires meet their treadlife ratings. Most people don't remember the treadlife warranty anyway. Think about what Les Schwab and how they make money. They want to sell you more tires and siping is just an upsell they can make to fatten each transaction.

VF series and TD series are also from different manufacturers, IHI and Mitsubishi.

Does this belong to anyone in this thread? Again, I'm wondering why you can't just use the EA82 clutch pedal with the EA81 clutch cable. I wish the pictures showed more of the differences between the two pedals.