carfreak85

R180s do NOT have finned diff covers, but DO have rear diff temp sensors. I've seen the finned ones on outbacks, for sure.

I'm having the same issues with the wife's '99 Forester. Once the front wheels slip, there is a noticeable delay in the rear-drive engagement. The fronts spin for a half-second or so, then BAM! AWD engages. It's bad enough that it once nearly caused me to lose control of the car. I spoke with a service manager at Chaplin's about it and apparently in '00+ there is a different rear-drive clutch computer that has a more gradual AWD engagement vs the abrupt nature of the '99's computer. I think that might be part of the story, but, there is a good chance the duty-C solenoid may need to be replaced. The ATF in her car isn't new, but it doesn't have a ton of miles on it.

Do you have any of the original BRAT turbo parts still taking up space? I'm ALWAYS on the lookout for spares.

I know that folks on NASIOC really like their one-piece carbon fiber driveshafts, I would expect their level of quality to extend down to their aluminum and steel shafts as well.

There are quite a few folks on this board who are running Accel coils. I have an MSD on my turbo wagon and an Accel on my turbo coupe. The both seem to work just fine. Can't think of the part number, but if you search for it, you will find it.

You never said this was for a business! I think your best bet is going to be choosing the right supplier for the right situation. NAPA might work most of the time, but Autozone might be able to get the same part next-day. That said, again, if you just order blindly off RA you will have issues with fitment, etc. I was looking for parts for my EA81 and there was a timing belt that would "fit" my engine. I emailed them and told them about it, that is how improvements get made. Also, I have often had them send defective parts, or ones that were just plain wrong. I have never once had to return a part to them. They normally tell me to keep it and refund the entire cost, shipping and the cost of that part.

I might be able to convince the wife to attend this. We were already thinking of getting up there on Saturday to introduce the new pup to snow. No lifted ANYTHING in our fleet as of now, but we would probably take her Forester, which is practically lifted already compared to my WRX, do you expect there to be impassable sections this early in the year?

Beggars can't be choosers. I find that even with shipping from multiple locations, unless I'm buying parts for a common, modern (2000+) car, Rock Auto will beat everyone, including Amazon Prime, 8 out of 10 times.

Rock Auto.

Actually, I'm pretty sure that is a Turbo Coupe, not an actual RX. The VIN holds all the info.

The rear LSD in an SVX is installed in an R160 housing, the same R160 housing used on countless vintage Datsuns and Subarus. The LSD itself may fit your housing with some modification.

Put a fuel stabilizer in the gas tank, I like to put a hanging bag of desiccant salts in the car to absorb moisture and prevent mold, but I live in the soggy PNW. This would probably be a good place to start: Car Storage FAQ: Read if you're going to be storing your car for more than 30 days It may not all be applicable to your situation, but a lot of it will be.

First, what sort of car is it? We can't help you at all if you don't tell us what you're working with. You're going to have to use your common sense on the condition of the bearings. You can drive them until the wheels fall off, but you will potentially be doing damage to other components that will end up costing you more in the long run. Your best bet is to not drive until you can get the car fixed. Not to get all preachy or to put you down, but my biggest concern is that it sounds like you bought a car that you couldn't afford to buy outright and now can't afford to maintain it. A pre purchase inspection would have gone a long way towards A) making the car more affordable by pointing out the necessary repairs to the seller, and would have shown you the true condition of the vehicle, giving you the chance to decide if you really wanted to take on the repairs.

Ever get this problem figured out?

1. Fix what is worn out. 2. Improve your driving skills (Not a jab at you, but most of the improvements will come from behind the wheel) 3. Tires 4. Struts, anti-roll bars, etc.

Boosting a N/A Subaru generally makes the engine very unreliable. If you have your heart set on a turbo Subaru and want it to last a few 10s of thousands of miles, you should really be swapping in a factory turbo engine, or just buy a cheap, rusty WRX instead. Save yourself the time, money and heartache of building it yourself.

Who cares about photos of the blue one, show us more pictures of the GSR!!!

Don't go around telling folks to de-cat their cars. He did the right thing by deleting his muffler and using a cat as a muffler. Be a responsible steward of our global environment.

They should spin, that's what allows the front wheels to turn on a McPherson strut suspension. I can't picture it in my mind on an EA81, but on an Impreza, there is a cone washer that goes between the upper spring perch and the inner race of the top hat's bearing.

I'm sure someone, somewhere has used EA81T heads in a N/A application, but not a high enough number for it to be considered tried-and-true. I'm not sure if there are even different part numbers for the EA81T camshaft but if Subaru did it properly, the EA81T cam would not make for a very powerful N/A engine.

There is almost no question that you will be much happier with an EJ swap. Sell those EA81T parts to me.

Good looking car! Your wiper/washer controls look nothing like they do in the U.S.

Grab a tape measure and measure out your dimensions. Find a catalog of radiators and find one that matches your dimensions and has the inlet and outlet in the right place.

No ABS lamp. Heck, I don't even know where the G-sensor mounts on a GD or what it looks like. Guess I'll have to ask at the dealer...

Has anyone ever had this sensor fail? I was playing around with an SSM2 tool and after running a diagnostic on my brake system, it returned this message: 42 - G sensor high friction detected The only reference I can find for this code on NASIOC is the "How to read brake codes" thread, but it doesn't go into any more detail than how to pull and decode the codes. Is this one of those codes that will show up when the car is turned off but goes away when you are driving? Anybody replace their G-sensor before?