tcspeer

The end of the wires coming off seems to be a common problem, When I changed my wires last time I kept the good ones to use again for this reason. As for as the plug getting tighter I dont think that is to unusally but Iam sure you have to worry about someone before you having cross threaded it. You will have to change them sometime you might as well find out now and not worry about it. When you put the new plugs in make sure you start them with only your fingers even if you have to use the socket and ext. dont use the rachet. I like to turn mine that way untill I am sure they are not crossthreaded. When they are straight you will not be able to pull them out but you should to able to wiggle them just a little side to side.

Setright, I agree with you most of the time and respect your opinion but I disagree here, Truck drivers are the best drivers on the road, and their driving is done with mirrows. Turning your head and looking behind you is dangerous when you are going foward. Do race drivers turn their head?

I dont know about your problem, but I think Legacy 777 is right about your friends car and the air bubble. Have him start it when it is cold and leave the cap off and add water as the level goes down, also turn heater on to help get the water moving. Their is other ways to do this but this has always worked for me.

Click and Clack had on their site how to adjust the mirrows to get full coverage like 1 Lucky Texan was saying he has. I think their site is car talk. com if not someone here will know. I think you should have gave them little mirrows more time. I love having them on my mirrows, to much blind spot without them.

Never turn a rotor, go to Auto Zone and buy a new one. Its not but a few dollars more. This is advice from someone who is really tough on brakes. (Rural mail carrier) car loaded down with lots of weight and around 500 hi speed stops a day. Use two sets of pads on the rotor and then replace it.

Good question! I was tempted also but have not done it yet.

I would think it must have something to do with I.A.C. being it runs fine after warming up.

The problem with my # 3 injector was the E.C.U. replaced it today just hoping it would fix it and it did.

You may just need to take the radiator out and wash the fins. Mine was overheating and I took it out and carried it to a Radiator shop. they told me after they cleaned it that it only needed the outside cleaned. It ran fine after this.

I cant tell by the picture, but is their any chance that is is part of the waterpump? or something else that is bolted to the block. Just hoping for you.

If your car has a coil pact I think I would check that. The haynes manuel tells how to check it.

My E.C.M. package arrived today, but when I opened it I found an injector. I wanted to order the E.C.M. but the parts people gave me the price for the injector. The real price for the new E.C.M. is 510.00. I have found a rebuilt one for 100.00 with a fifty dollar core fee. Sorry for the misinformation I gave.

Sorry Frag, I was thinking stock bleeder screws, Iam not sure I have ever seen the ones you were asking about.

I agree no tape. I just tighten mine down a little more than snug and have never had them leak.

They have really gotten cheaper now, like reg. computer, I found them rebuild for around 100.00 dollars, from another place. Litha Subaru is really tough to beat they sell genuine Subaru parts at really low cost. They will also give mechanical advice. I dont think they have ever but me on hold when I call service is the best I have found anywhere.

Thanks, just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlookng the obvious.

Is their any fuses that run the injectors, I could not find any on the chart or Haynes manuel?

I ordered a new E.C.M. for my 97 Legacy wagon for 86.00 from Litha Subaru. The junk yard wanted 175.00 used. We get a discount from them for our postal Subarus but Iam sure they would have great prices for any of you. I get del. in about two days most of the time from them.

I checked the two ends of the wire with the meter (key on, car not running) got twelve volts. However I dont get noid to light with car running. Maybe E.C.U.? Does the fact that I get twelve volts mean the wires are good.

I picked up my 97 2.2 in Nov. of 1996 and it had the interference engine. I found this out by letting the idle pully come apart on me at 288,000 miles. ( Dont forget to check the pullys when changing belts) I am sure most of you know but for the ones that dont the piston was coned up in the center of the 1997 which took away the space that was used to keep the pistons and valves apart. This was done to get a little more power. I agree with edrach, I would rather have the reliabilty then the extra power.

I dont know which engine you have but the 2.2 can be a real job to put the plugs in, but by removing the washer tank and air filter housing it becomes very easy. I also like the N.G.K. plugs.

I was using the noid lights, they were lighting on the other three. Oh yes it is a 97 2.2 engine. There is nothing coming to this injector #3 from the wires. I had a rough running engine and this injector plug appeared to have heat damage on it so I unplugged it to check it. When I put it back on it had stopped working, but it was not running right before I removed it.

What could cause one injector not to get volts or current? I dont think any wires have been damaged. The pigtail end has been removed and still no juice at the end of wires with engine running. I asked this question the other day but I dont think I was very clear so I thought I would try again.

1997 Legacy wagon 2.2 engine. I only tested the two on the right, the front one lights but not # 3. However I did pull them off one at a time before I got the light and they all were working but #3. I could tell this by the way the engine would try to die when they were unpluged. The reason for checking these were because the engine would shake when it was idling in gear. I had this engine installed from a junk yard and I noticed the pigtail for the # 3 injector had heat damaged on it. When I unpluged it to check, it made it worse it is not working any now. I have ordered a pigtail from the wrecking yard to replace the end but the worry is the noid will not light when I touch the ends to the bare wires behind the damaged connector. Any ideals?

The connector that goes to my # 3 fuel injector is not lighting a noid light. The plactic end looks like it has been against the manifold but the light did not light when I touched the bear wires on back side. Any ideals what to look for?