tcspeer

The first one is easy, the one with the oil leak is the Subaru. The last one Subaru people tend to communciate with each other more, I cannot find a good board like this for our Saturn. Even with a few oil leaks my 2.2 now has 286000 miles on it.

Pull the radiator out and look at it. May be you just need to wash dirt out of the fins. Mine overheated a few years back and that was what was wrong with it.

If you backed out wouldnt they keep your money? Make them stick to the deal they made. You letting them have that deposit money is a good faith contract, or should be.

Cut rotors are worthless get new ones at Auto Zone for around 30.00 each and their Albany semi metallic pads for around 20.00. ( they work for me with around 400 stops each day.)

I once put Raybestos brake shoes on the back of an 83 Malibu when they got warm they squealed so bad I removed them and have never bought anymore. I think the Albany pads at Auto Zone are Bendix but dont know that for a fact. I do know they are just as good as I have used both many times.

I dont have anyway to run anything on carfax, but I was listening to an automotive show on the radio yesterday and the host was not real impressed with the accuracy of these services, his suggestion was if you are real sure you want to purchase that car was to take it to one of the shops that does the full automotive analysis. He thinks it is money better spent.

You need to go back Monday with a witness and talk to them, make sure you keep the receipt for the work that was done. If they make no effort to fix the problem and be responsible for any other damage they may have caused then you can send them a certified letter (return receipt) and explain in detail what they failed to do and let them know that you are going to hold them liable for the damage they may have caused, tell them if they dont take responsibility you will seek to get the damages in small claims court. You can start that action for around 50.00 dollars see the county clerk and they can get you going in the right place. This really works well when they get the notice from the court they are being sued they will probaly take care of it. If not then follow through with the court action it is a great tool when you learn to use it. If you need more help you can probaly find a book for small claims court for your State at Amazon.

Is it both front wheels or just one? If it is both you may have some bad pads, I have a 97 Legacy L. wagon also (right hand drive) for use on rural mail route I have found the semi metallic pads that Auto Zone sells for around $20.00 dollars work well. You may also got a bad rotor, I put some new ones on mine one time and one of them was warped from the start. Find the one that is squealing the worst and put the old rotor back on if it still does it then it is pads, if it stops then it is rotor.

could be the rear drive shaft, if you see shiny things around the U- joints then that is probably the problem. New ones are around 500.00 and wrecking yards have them for around 150.00.

you should be able to buy ez out at local auto store or hardware store, just take the broken part with you and then you will be able to get right size. I done the same thing with my transmission pan bolts a few years back, (broke two)

The compresser may be getting weak and not building enough pressure. Have some place that just does A.C. check it.

I have never had rear disc brakes so I dont know anything about them, however I have switched pads for front brake noise, but it dont seem to work as well as switching drums. You might try switching your pads and adding the brake anti- squeal to the back of the pads.

If you want to see what the slide lock tool looks like go to pro lok .com then click on designs and look at tool A001. the measuments I gave you are from the one I have.

The rod is to far to center of door to get with a slim jim. You will need a slide lock tool. Hommer tools on the net sells a cheap set of car opening tools and I think this tool is in their set. It is around ten dollars for the set. However if you want to try and make one get a stiff rod about 1/8 in. thick, a bit bigger than clothes hanger and about thirty four inches long. about four inches from bottom bend at a ninety go two and 1/8 in. over and bend back up in another 90. then measure one inch of the part that you bent up, and bend remaining part of this back down making a shape that will look like a upside down U then bend the other end some so that it will not fall down in door if you drop it. Opening Inst: 1 Insert wedge into middle of Passenger Door. 2 Insert the slide lock tool into door. Push the tool down into the door until the tip of the tool is below the window glass. 3 Turn the tool 90 degress, so that the tip is pointing in towards the interior of the car. Push the tool DOWN INTO THE DOOR 7"-8" and rest the base of the tool on the horizontal rod. turn the tool untill the top rod falls into the tip of the slide lock tool. then bind the rod by twisting the tool, while maintaining the binding pressure, push the rod forward to unlock the door. If this dont unlock it try pushing backard.

I agree with Setright that you will most likely need new brakes to fix your problem. However if you have drums on rear their is one little trick I have found that will work sometimes, that is to switch sides with the drums. The wear patterns of shoes to drum will be different and it will sometime remove the high or uneven wear. Just be sure to brake easy the first few times like you do after putting new brakes on.

I agree with mudrat sounds like a coil pact to me. My 97 Legacy done the same thing as yours when the coil pact went out. Just maybe the coil pact failure caused the other problems you have found.

How long had it sat without being started? When I let mine set three or four days without starting it I also get knocking sound when I start it. I was thinking that it was because the oil was mostly gone from internal engine parts and it was just waiting for oil to get back on parts.

Car washes have been around long before antennas started going up and down. And if it knocks its off you are still no worse than you are now, needing an antenna. mine has been unpluged for around five years and I have washed it in automatic car washs.

Raise it to top and then unplug the elc. connector to the power antenna. It will stay up and no more noise.

I carry all the time a small air compressior that plugs into cig. lighter and tire plugs. Not the Wal Mart plugs but the brown ones made by Camel. If you all going alone audio books are great, is someone is going with you forget it. Books on tape web site is great they have C.D. and tape rental.

I know you said you wanted one that would fit in the compartment, but my Subaru jack stripped out also, so why would you want another one. Let me suggest the little jack that Wal Mart sells it looks like it is part bottle jack and part scissor jack it comes in a small black case so it does not rattle. It works great and it does not take up much room in the back. However if you want one that will fit I bought one from Northern tools before I bought the Wal Mart jack it works well and fit in the compartment it looks almost like the Subaru Jack, I dont know if they still carry it but you could check their web site. On the Wal Mart jack I am not taking about the small floor jack in the black case, its the small hyd. scissor jack in the black case.

It cost me around 300.00 to have wheel bearing done on front of 97 legacy.

Maybe the idle air control valve ( if the 1990 model has one) my 97 2.2 does the same idles rough at stop lights. The I.A.C. valve is expensive so I have not Chg. mine however I did spray some carbarator cleaner in the big hose that goes to it and it seemed to help some. I dont know if spraying cleaner in that hose is the right thing to do so you might want to see what other people think, however it did not harm mine.

Also check the big bushing at back of control arm it will have two lg. bolts holding it. It will be real close to where you place the jack to remove front wheel. When grease starts coming out of them they usually are not far from popping.

On my 97 mail wagon I sat on the right and when I turn hard left I hear a sound like escaping air coming from the front tire. It is not one solid sound it is like you hear it with each rotaion of the tire. (sis-sis-sis-sis) I hope that is the correct way to type escaping air. It is not the tire or wheel because I put another tire and wheel there and it still does it. Any ideals?