Gloyale

Everything is hte same as far as running gear, suspension, drivetrain.......so a standard EA82 lift will work. Body panels are all different.

What's your location? I have a good running EA71 sitting on the shop floor.....and no old subaru to put it in. I do have an 82 wagon that needs a EA81 motor......... Wanna talk trade?

So I am finishing up the last few things on my EJ swap into my 84 wagon. Got her running pretty nice.......still needs exhaust, temp corrected with a resitor, and an oil pressure sender.....but I digress...... The biggest problem I have....is that when I hook up hte ECU's "backup" power supply.....the engine actually runs rougher......and whn I turn off teh key.....I have power backfeeding to my dash and headlights. (warning lights dim, and the headlights have power to turn on fairly dim) The engine runs great without that wirre hooked up, but I'd like to know what the deal is. The Original Diode is in place on the EJ harness......But that diode is for a different power supply(Ig. switched from ALT-2) The wire in question is shown in the diagrahhms as not going through a diode though......FSM shows it coming straight from battery volts through fuse 14. Do I need to install a diode on that wire? Harness and ECU are from 93 Legacy auto......any advice appreciated. Wire in question is YR from pin A15 on the ECU.

Yes...perfect. the customer's jaw literally dropped, and he blinked repeatedly in disbelief whn his 85 GL started with the tap of the key and idled smoothly through it's warm up. Thanks again.......Now wanna help me track down the lowlifes that stole the original carb?.....that would be helpful.

You actually don't meed to remove the whole handle mechanism. The lock cylinder is held in by a clip around it. First, carefully pry the arm out of the cylinder, then pull the clip from around the lock body and it comes right out. If you want to remove the handle.....you should be able to get at the bolts with a gear wrench.

Not really....the trany is plenty grounded by being bolted to the engine.....but if the engine ground let go.......?

Order a PCI timing belt kit from Ebay with a water pump included. Take it with you to a shop, or install it yourself.....but you'll save at least $300 on what they are charging for parts. If you haven't done a subaru T-belt....the DOHC can be tricky....but it's not really that hard. Save yourself somee trouble and remove the radiator. makes it all really easy. And you are gonna drain it to replace the waterpump anyway.

Gound strap for the transmission. Should be bolted at the other end to one of the bolts on the top ridge of the trans. (IIRC the bolt one further back than the bottom of the dogbone mount.)

Just a tip...... Stock 90-99 Legacy Steering coupler will work 3inch crossmember blocks Lifted EA82. The stock 96-99 Outback coupler works for 4 inch lifted.

Well after making some Camber corrected HighGuys front strut blocks for Micheal Appel's Lifted GL, we encountered an out of the blue no start. We trouble shoot for hours. Eventually pining it down to no disty signal....but 2 good distys and still nothing. So it's gotta be wiring, right? So we start routing around....tug the disty wire a bit.......and wouldn't you know............. Yeah......someone pryed open the hole in the firewall a bit to get the SPFI harness through......and created a pretty nice jagged set of jaws that this cord (4 wires and shielding) got caught in.......enough vibration and it literally chewed right through it. 20 mins of soldering later it fired right up. "The wires go inside the rubber grommets ......MmmmmKay"

this will be a test of whether or not a 26 years old, 200k+ 4spd can handle 110 hp and gobs of torque.

I think I might have to be in on the camping. Installed the EJ18 with an adapter plate onto the 4spd D/R(I know, I know:rolleyes:) And dropped it into the wagon today. Tommorow is wiring, wiring, wiring.

Did you unbolt the main pos(+) cable and fuse box pigtail, and clean the connection there? Not the post......but where the wires actually attach to the clamp?

Sounds like the IAC is stuck wide open. Have it tested. IDK, you might be able to simply block it off to see if the idle drops. Also, you may want to test the MAP sensor.....or just try swapping a different one on. A bad MAP would also explain the highway hiccup.

Those leaks in the crankcase were probably acting as a small vacuum leak and raising the idle slightly. With a seal crankcase and PCV system now the idle is back to what it should be. 700-800. No worries.

I'd try inspecting and cleaning all connections first. Good idea to actually put a Voltmeter on the battery too, and watch the volts at startup. Best to confirm that the battery is bad......3 years is not that old for a Battery. If it is starting the car, but losing radio presets, then there is a bad connection.....probably the Positive battery cable where it bolts to the actual clamp. Clean it all up good and see if that changes the behavior.

Looks like a circuit breaker to me. Test to see if there is power though it. Perhaps for A/C? Power Windows? Cruise? Does you're brat have any of those. But it definately looks like a breaker, or perhaps a REALLY old type of diode?

Have you tried starting it with the CTS disconnected???

IMO the XT6, single range with FT4wd w/Difflock has got to be the strongest Subaru 5spd. Has a large suppoert bearing on front of the input shaft. No D/R transfer gears....so it's a straight through shaft to the gears. And the Center Diff and Locker are WAAAAY beefier than the wimpy output gear on the PartTime units. Otherwise.....all the bearings and gears are 99.9 % identical between EA82 and EJ 5spds.

reseal the Oil pan, valve covers and Cam/Crank seals. That's all. Unless it shows other problems (oveheating, leaking coolant) Definately don't split the case unless there is some reason, and you are gonna rebuild it right.

OK. Finally fixed the bent control arm and radius rod from the trip home from WCSS 11. Modified radius rod plates for increased clearance (no more boat anchor effect backing up in mud) Removed the dead EA81 (crank case FILLED with coolant, no blown plugs freeze plugs ) redrilled Flywheel for use on EJ Stripped my 93 Legacy donor harness. Now all I gotta do is install the EJ and wire it all up for the Trip:banana:!

First time you have a casting crack at that pinch you will rethink your axle method. I've seen 2 broken knuckles now from too many Pinch then Pry operations on those knuckles. I've done axles everyway they can be done.....and argued against removeing the pivot bolt myself......until I learned better. Easiest way BY FAR, is to unbolt the one inner pivot bolt in the control arm, and the one bolt that holds the swaybar clamp. It really is the easiest and quickest way. And you don't disturb either of the "clamp" parts of the brittle, cast knuckle.

That is MrGlegacy and his car, Clifford. And it is NOT and EA82. It is a 91 Legacy. Specs: Clifford the big red Subaru. 91 Legacy 3inch Highguys lift w/99 OB struts. EA82 D/R 5spd VLSD rear end from 03' outback w/98 outback Rear axles Snorkel Soon to be Phase II 2.5 engine

Pull the connector to the Coolant temp sensor. See if it will fire on the default fuel map. Another thing to check is in cold weather hoses get brittle and vacuum leaks happen around Brake booster line, and other vac lines so check them for tight fit. enough of a vac leak will make for hard start or no start.