Gloyale

+1 Or, possibly the head(or block, rarely)needed resurfaced before the HG change.

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Torch it red hot. Then let it cool abit, it will come out like butta.

Are you sure you don't have cracked heads in the exhaust port? This will cause coolant leaking into the exhaust. Also what brand of intake gaskets are you using? Should be OEM only. Also, have you tried a retorqueing after running the engine?

You can drop the rears by flipping over the upper mounting bracket. 3/4"- 1" I did it on accident once, just to one side. Took me a bit to figure out why the car sat crooked.

This is too confusing. electryc_monk, please fill us in on the details of the car again. You say 87 GL-10? Does it have a Flapper MAF or a Hot-wire type? Originally was it a 3 pin TPS or the 2 connector/5 pin style? The later style convert easily, the early 3-pin presents a bigger issue. Which type are we talking about here? Has it been running with the spider on it? Did you already set it up for the Spider TPS and now you are just needing a good one? Or is this still part of finishing the spider conversion?

I'd love to explain this fully with wire colors and pin # but I don't have my FSMs here at home anymore. I'll try my best with the assumption you can sort which wires are which, and just give you a general desrciption of how to mate the stock XT (read=spider) TPS to mate to the GL-10 harness: The GL-10s orginal harness and TPS should have 2 connectors. one on the main body, and one is a pigtail. Five wires total. But the key is that the ground wires are actually just a split. They are spliced from one wire in the harness, about 6 inches up from the connectors. So really it's only Four wires. Listed in red below. IIRC the ground wires on both harnesses are all black. pigtail= one is rehostat ground, one supply 5v, and one variable signal voltage. main body= one is idle switch ground, one is idle switch signal XT(spider) TPS has 4 pins. All on the same connector. It utilises the same ground wire for both rehostat and idle switch operation.If you have the XT harness connector for the four pin TPS, you can just solder it to the wires from the GL-10 harness. Otherwise, you need to find or fab a connection to the pins but the concept will be the same. You need to match One ground wires to the Ground pin on the TPS. Then match the Supply Volts, Signal Volts, and Idle Switch wire from the GL harness to the respective positions on the XT TPS. Cut or tuck up and wrap the remaining ground wire in the GL harness. Their outputs are the same as far as the ECU will see.

2.2s can blow a headgasket also. I just replaced one in a 91 legacy with 190,000 miles. I don't know why so many people think a heagasket failing is the end of the world? I'd rather lose a headgasket @ 150k+ in a subaru, than lose the transmission in my Volvo at 50k or a piston exploding in a Grand cherokee with 100k It's totally fixable, and since 97, causes less damage than a broken timing belt.(provided you don't overheat it) Whatever vehicle it's in, I'd try to find a 2.5 that's already had it's headgasket changed recently.

hmmm.... I'm not sure that's true. At any rate though, that doesn't help for the most needed, HEAT and DEFROST positions needed for winter driving. Plus it requires some way of disabling the compressor. It's alot easier to just put a .99 cent cap on the vac line. I never had problems with condensation in 6 years of wisconsin winter driving.

Probably haqve a 170 or 180 degree thermostat installed. Get a 190 degree t-stat from the dealer. Another tip, for winter heat, in the car: Pull open the glovebox, twist it abit and it will open all the way, past the stops. Look behind it, you should find a skinny black tube. It connects to a rubber tube, which is connected to the fresh air intake. If you disconnect that tube, and plug the end with a cap, you will have "recirculation" of cabin air for you're blower.

Euro Junior brand adjustable cup holder form AutoZone. Screwed directly to the top of the dash. Sure it's right in front of the clock, but it doesn't work and my stereo has a clock. Other than that, I use an oversize, sturdy coffee mug on on top of the coin tray, then slip my regular thermos cup or soft drink cup in that. But I have an automatic. Not much of an option for those with a D/R lever in that spot.

As long as they are not abnormally deep, 6-1/2 inch speakers should bolt directly into the stock mounting bracket on you're Loyale. IIRC 85-87 used the 4 inch speaker. 88+ use 6-1/2 inch. If for some reason the you're Loyale has 4-1/4" s(they did cheap out on alot of stuff with those, hence no rear speakers), the plastic mount bracket can easily be removed, and 6 inch installed using a few sheetmetal screw and washers as spacers . Or you could grab them(the brackets) from an 88 or 89 which definately use 6"s All the above options work behind the stock door cards.

That is sick. I really like it. Is it still turbo? Doe that tailgate open? Please tell me a lift is coming. Got the driveline done? I've wanted to do a similar chop. I wanted to chop at the right distance to connect the front driveline portion directly to the Rear diff. IIRC The flanges are the same size:cool:

What are you trying to accomplish? The stock spider TPS(four pins) has the excact same outputs as the later style, non-spider, Turbo TPS(2 of 4 pins used on the body, plus 3 pin pigtail). Only some minor reconfiguring of the connector is needed. To use a 3 pin style on a spider, I still think simply drilling a hole through the plastic case, and mounting it flipped over is by far the most intuitive, and cheapest solution.

Ughhh...........that stuff. Yeah, I think it is a dealer add-on. I don't like it. My Black Diamond 84 Sedan has that crap. I think it takes away from the lines of the car. Plus all the plastic inisde has shrunk, leaving big gaps at the ends. On one part it's even completely gone, leaving the ugly track and exposed rivets. It WILL be going bye-bye before I do the restoration and repaint her. Then comes the EJ25 w/4eat swap. I just realized you meant that lower stuff. My Black diamond has chrome down there. I'm talking bout the skinny crap in the middle

Dumb Question, but have you checked them since it started not driving??? I'm thinking no fluid. Did one of the trans cooler (to the radiator)hoses break or come off? Is you're diff full of fluid?? Barring that, perhaps the fluid pump gave out somehow.

You are comparing you're XC90 to a GT model. Outbacks have almost 11 inches of clearance.

Watch Ebay like a hawk. You'll get a set for for $50 or less eventually.

Well, if you could, technically it would be illegal and a copyright violation. Individual pieces copyrighted materials allowed to be used freely for "demostrative purposes" by educators and that is about all. If you want a whole set, I suggest you pay for a set like the rest of us.

It's for sale on the Salem, OR craigslit right now. I think he only wants $1300 for it. I'd love to go get it.

Don't use RTV. It will splooge out into the pump cavitys, and then tear away and travel into the oil passages. I just had a 2.2 apart that someone had used RTV on the pump. We had to pull every plug form every oil passage and flush them out. Additionally we had to remove and bleed all 16 lash adjusters. Tiny pieces of RTV material where all throughout this motor. Probably why it Tickity-Ticked so much. Use Subaru recommended Three-bond, Toyota bond, or at least good permatex Anearobic sealant. It's 15-20 bucks a tube, but worth it, and performs better for all the other applications

really??? I' ve always had to use a Spanner of some sort for these. Way harder than EA82 cam pulleys

If you use a pipe plug, it will have a tapper to the threads, so it should seal well. Always have for me. But if you are worried, coat the plug with a bit of copper RTV before installing.

My buddy george has the same setup you are talking bout. 91 Legacy 2.2 MT Outback struts and spring front Outback strut with stock Legacy spring rear 205/75/15 traction tires (still a tight fit, but works, rubbs a hair on the front bumper in depresed turns) Might go to a 70 series instead of 75. Still had good power when we did the lift, but the bigger tires must have hammered the death blow to the Headgaskets. They blew about 3 week after intalling the tires @199k miles Surfaced the heads. Removed, cleaned and resealed all valves. Cleaned all the pistons to shiny, no carbon. Now the engine runs smooth as butter. Feels like it's making at least 5 horse more. So be aware that added strain of big tires may not be good for a weak motor. But it is a good opportunity to do a "refresh" on the engine, change clutch at the same time.