Gloyale

This one is gonna stay how it is...... But maybe someday if I T-case my wagon....I might clock it sideways........probably will oil better than upright. It's oiling system is excactly like one of those "Lucas" hand crank displays that shows you the oil sling up the gears......that's why they are known for upper bearing problems......especially if they sit for long times and then get driven short amounts..........the top bearings go dry and then you have to drive over a few MPH to get the oil to really get up to the top. The vent hole at the top is directly behind the upper bearing. I plan on running a tube out of the vent hole that comes into the cab.......And before each run I'm gonna pour a teaspoon of Gear oil down it into the upper bearing.

Well.......The Throw out can ride just barely against the PP fingers even with clutch out/neutral.........that's the chirping.......moving the clutch pedal or fork just a bit should change or eliminate the chirp if it's the throwout.. Pilot bearing spins when clutch is in, sitting still. Engine spinning, clutch disc and input shaft stationary.........so that would not be the issue you'd hear it with clutch in. Pretty much seems to be the input shaft......If it grumbles.....and doens't stop until the clutch is derpessed (disengaged) that definate diagnosis.

As long as it has the ABS sensor hole and tone ring. If it has hole but no tonering you can add tone ring to Lego Hub.

Low grumble?? That would be Input shaft bearings High pitched "chirping" would be Throw out...... The throw out, the noise should stop or change with just a slight pressure on the pedal.... If the noise doesn't stop until you actually put the clutch in.....fully disengaged from enigne.....then that's the Input shaft bearing. Fix the trans before it grenades and you will get alot more life out of it. While I agree best to replace......but honestly they don't matter. They just hold the bearing in place during install. I pull apart clutches all the time with none......and I've assembled my wheeler without them several times....no issues. They are just for install.

This is not recommended by Subaru.......Or anyone else I've ever heard from on this board. Pretty much just this guys theory.........Decide if you really want to try or not. I personally would advise against it. Those are tiny little passeges with ZERO space between the faces......Where is the sealant gonna go? sploog out the sides and into the middle of the passage. More likely cause HLA problems than solve them with this.

We aren't talking about the Gaurd/heatsheilds......those bolt on. We mean the actual pipe beteen each junction, is double walled.......you can't really just remove the outside.

red wire on the clock connector.

I never heard anything about claiming it was Subaru wheel torqued or not. Nothing about being bent.... Side loads under full throttle high revolutions of the wheel don't really happen "offroading". Rally is gonna be harder on this particalular item.......I've never ever ever heard of a subaru losing a wheel offroading........unless you count balljoints breaking and wheel coming off. But never blown out lugnuts.........And lots of use run redrilled wheels. Pontoon.......the videos you post seem to be more "rally" style......and I can definatley tell why you bend rims.........too fast. You need a Lo range 4wd......not AWD, to truely "offroad"

You'd need to go to longer springs that mount further down on the strut body. The spring can only compress so far EA81 there is no coil spring....so the spring shock won't limit uptravel at all if you add a longer shock for your lift.

The engine sits low, and the spark plug wells get water in them. Di-electric grease coating on insides of plug wire tips. And then RTV on the "lip" of the spark plug boot where it goes into the head.....just lip on the outer.....don't get any into the wells or it can make removeing the wires and plugs very hard later.

Whoa! Rob, what the heck are you doing to the back end of that thing??? You putting a proper Brat bed on it?

You gotta bend the lines a bit.....It's okay just be gentle....they will bend just don't totally kink them.

Grab some EJ lines. The connector at the junction down on the crossmember are the same... Hook up the EJ hardlines to the EA82 lines at tha connector.....takes a little bending and unbolt from the bracket but it works great. Or even easier just bend the EA82 lines up near the pump and install them into the EJ pump......Done. I've got XT turbo hardlines bent a bit to fit in my 86 GL w/EJ22 EA81 power steering doesn't have the same connectors so crazyeights suggestion would be good for ea81setup.

The double wall throughout. It goes to single at each flange or inlet into the CAT. Makes the whole system quieter and cooler for travel over tall grass and suck.... But it's annoying when it disintegrates....... IIRC.....If you cut it open a section to splice .....1 7/8 exhaust pipe will shove right into the gap between the 2 walls

I've got 10+ of them. If you want one PM me...I'll drop it in a priority box.

Yeah. It's criminal really. Conspiricy to promote new vehichle sales. Shifts the burden onto every single driver even those who are preopared for those conditions........rather than letting those without proper tires/traction/vehichles deal with their own needs. Truely criminal. Destruction of property.

High ground clearance gives the wind a chance to get under it.......unlike a minivan.

Well there are lots of mountains in Washington. Just not IN Seattle.

no. seperate systems

Or perhaps he is talking about the Coolant supply to the turbo? it come out of passenger side head just in front of the exhaust. Or the Oil supply line to the turbo....although that is high up on the back of passenger side head.

That's the keyway. The mark is on the pulley....on one of the little ears on the back. If the keyway is straight down the mark should be straight up...Timing sounds correct by what you describe. Something else is the miss.

2 things in this video 1) If those are aftermarket, or other than Subaru steel wheels the holes may be larger. Subaru uses M12 studs some makes use 1/2" or even 14mm studs so the holes may have been too big for the lugnuts.. 2) The driver really forces the issue.......plowing full throttle understeer.....instead of a little off throttle/brake blip and flick to make the back end get around. You can see several times he goes full 1 3/4 turns full locked including right at the moment before the seperation........Sothe wheel is just pushed full sideways, probably til the tire's sidewall gave out some....at which point the edge of the rim dug into the mud with full vehichle weight on it......enough to tweak the first one or 2 nut holes.....then the rest went under rotation.....

Dropped $100 on new Trooper balljoints and tierods, all 6 in total. Also got some new seals for the transfer case hopefully they will be the right ones......it was a bitch to track down. In my research I found these Nissan geared transfer cases a pretty cool......used in the Nissan Patrols in a "sideway" configuration for years. Makes me think about using one on it's side for the next project.

Rear output or Side outputs? Typically the "cupped" side goes in......Flat side out.

Front and rear swaybars don't need to be messed with at all to do this swap. Other than just maybe unbolting to get travel to install the OB/FOZ struts. You don't need the Rear trailing arm brackets either........You just get a bit more downtravel offroad with the OB/FOZ bracket. 4 used strut assembies from a JunkYard can be had for ~$100......easiest cheapest way but of course crapshoot on strut condition.