Mykeys Toy
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Everything posted by Mykeys Toy
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Just trying to get the dimensions of the weber version. I will spill details later if I can find what I am looking for and make it work properly. Not for an offroad vehicle hence the dimensions part.. I dunno if it will clear the hood.
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This link is primarily for car audio guys but older car will benefit also. I will help minimize voltage drop even further is you plan to add other things to your brat. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1 I am currently working on this one.. It seems the maxima alt has a B+ stud that is too short to add a huge wire (4AWG) lol
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I think as long as you talk to someone there via email or phone so that they know you have a switched ground the kit will work. You can build one yourself also. ( there is a diagram somewhere on the site ) It really isn't that hard I tested it out on my hatch and made such a difference I did not need to get aftermarket h4 stuff or go hid. I do think that the available kit looks much better than what I put together though and probably makes for a cleaner install. Mike
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Very nice.. I have loved watching this build since you started it. I would love to be able to do half of what you have done. Beautiful car and glad you shared with us. Mike
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I can't knock the numbers. But after all the hype I had assumed they would be higher.
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You could try your local bone yards but I think you are going to have to have something shipped from the southwest or west coast unless you know someone that is parting theirs out.
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Awesome! I will hold off on the congrats till then. But I am gonna tell Ronnie when she gets up.
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Cat-less Y pipe or header that will hook up to the stock exhaust on the EA cars.. better flowing intake that is lower profile if that will even work. skid plate light bar assembly that is all one piece,, direct bolt on.
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That was first followed by by-passing the HH then when we still couldn't get pressure had to start looking for leaks. Which turns out to be the line closest to the front of the car which is maybe 8" long...The frickin easy one.
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Actually this is supposed to be the boys project with a little help. He found that one of the lines is leaking from the master and causing it to only build so far and go to crud again. He has yet to update his post or look for the line it has been 5 days so here is the update. A big thanks to all who tried to help. I do have a gravity bleeder but was afraid to use it for fear of making a huge mess.
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input shaft seal
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Nice job as usual.. I have thought about doing something like that for a few years but I have a tendency to build too heavy or just plain ugly and utilitarian. Someone break his camera finger!
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As far as parts compatibility and swapping it comes down to this... everything is swappable including fenders as long as the headlights are the same. After a certain year (which year idk) there are electrical and plug differences. A lot of the Gen2 ea71 cars are also a direct interchange. OT I love my sedan and finding specific parts is tuff.
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nope.. hopefully the line isnt cracked but my crappy flare wrenches only allowed them to be tightened so far withou worry of stripping the nut on one line.
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Thats exactly how I did it at the pull a part
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Ha! I forgot about that thread. I said something similar on it too.
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That is something I would do but have no idea how to figure out how to do it. I am not a guru cept for aftermarket and even then I am only fairly knowledgeable. So that being said I am still happy with my aftermarket in the sedan but would leave the dash alone in any other car if given the chance/ choice.. Thats what glove boxes are for right
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My mistake I assumed with your previous post that there was a weber swap in there. So to amend my previous post I agree that there is a vac leak somewhere. I have picked up the wrong caps in the past and had to go back for a smaller size.. 1/8th I think
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How tight is the linkage nut with lock plate thing? Mine needed to be backed off one sixth of a turn and all was good.. It will cause the car to idle high and run like crap because it is opening the secondary with any throttle movement.. I wouldn't know anything about that:rolleyes:
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Well start with your fuel mix ( my car likes it not quite two turns ). Then readjust your idle. I still haven't plugged in my choke but just finished my swap right before the show. That should get you running right. Your symptoms tell me that is where your problem lies unless you messed with your timing or are in need of of a tune up.
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Stock and maybe a feedback but I haven't one here to compare with.
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SO I was perusing CL and ran across a video link which got me to this.. I don't think it will help with sheet but may improve your technique for other stuff... I found it interesting but I have only scratched the surface of what I don't know.
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I had a similar problem last year. The switch wasn't working so I replaced it with a new one and for some reason I still couldn't get the fan to come on so I threw a relay at it after doing some testing. My sensor was grounding as it should but maybe too much resistance? So the switch then just became a trigger. Did a similar mod to my headlights on the other car and surprise sealed beams work fine when given enough voltage.
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This is a very interesting Thread. Some good info for noobs and what not to get if you can afford it.
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I have already done this and the only way to not be a nuisance is to purchase and install the projectors also. My headlights are aimed about as far down as I can make them go and they still light up everything above below and to the sides. On the upside most people don't care when they do it so it is aimed right at oncoming traffic and is absolutely horrible. So the folks around here don't bother flashing their lights at you. I would still feel better with a proper beam pattern.. Just my .02
