archemitis

hes got non ajdustable struts. i think what he wants to hear is that ist most likely a worn out rubber, and not a bent part.

that almost sounds like your advocating stock recommended ignition timing.

its the kind of movie where you say,"that was funny". but it didnt make me laugh.

with some cars, and water cooling, somtimes pinging is hard to distinguis from engine noise... carefull with the turbo engines! carb... crank it all the way

even a "sports" cat should give signifigant back pressure compared to a 2.5 inch glasspack. when you dont have cams, or internal mods, your increased boost, headers, air cleaner, and exhaust system are the main mods, so... i think exhaust and air cleaner would have alot to do with dyno numbers, and more inprotantly, tuning. stoich!

if it was me... id be looking for that engine, to computer harness.... i may be able to find you one, within the next few days. it would make things worlds easier for you. i just use that part, and tape off the wires i dont use. if you want, i can check if one is available... cheap =]

you can run syn with conventional all you want. it says on every bottle, "compatable with conventional oils" if i cant find mobil1, i have topped off with castrol with no worries, or problems. canging oil 700-800 miles is crazy. 3000 miles is waht is recommended for severe/extreme duty use. youd be good for flood conditions with 7-8 hundred.

you dont realy need a diagram... seriously. do you have the harness from the motor, to the battery? if so, you have all the info you need. the wire goin to the plus side on the coil, is also the on off for the computer. black/white. stick that to the ignition switch + or the original +wire from your stock vw coil. the big red wires, through the whole harness. they are power for the injectors and the computer. give that power all the time, with a fisable link, or a breaker. the fuel pump wires. you can see where the old fuel pump plugged into the harness, i think its black and blue wires. those go the pump. you can hotwire that, or let the computer controll it(this is wher i cant remember the colors) whats your mpfi harness from, an xt im assuming/hoping. i think all of these wires come off of two main plugs, that go over towards the fuse box. basicaly it should start when you put power to the black/white wire on the +of the coil, the big red wire, then hotwire the fuel pump. refine it after it runs =] if i can find where i got my diagrams from, i will post them, but i think they have been deleted.

i knew it was Heavy Industries, but not the first part. seems like everything is japan is "heavy industries" or "vehicle concern" how many turbo manufacturers are there? garrett ihi mitsubishi what else, other than the strictly aftermarket guys K K K and the like.

heh... i shoulda known it was discussed before. i was at home with a dvd. got to pause it, and rewind, and pause. my girlfriend thinks im wierd.

Lets Try This Again I H I

Ihi!

the movie sucked in my opinion, but theres a cherry dark red brat, second gen. in two shots. the dorky body builder guy drives it, its obviously there for comedy, not the coolness of the brat, but its still cool to see them poping up in current movies. our cult status is growing!

i know you guys have alot more regulations than us over here. we can lift as high as we want, as ghetto as we want, as long as our bumpers sit low enough to be legal =]

i wanna see pics of your strut tower extension just checked out the bolts, i was wrong, 3/8s is pretty much right on, cuz those big bolts are 10mm methings. not 12 anyways.

the least rusty parts... maybe gold colored? why remove lift kit? not legal?

um... take out old engine and tranny. install(make fit) new ej22 with tranny. get custom front axles, swap out rear diff for legacy rear diff, of apropriate gearing. or a guy makes an adapter plate, so all you have to do is bolt your motor to your old tranny, and get to wiring. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30239 thats the first link that comes to mind. mudrat79 is the one who makes the plates. the search function turned up lotsa results for me. 150 hp is way better than 90 =]

well, im sure youd just drill 4 new holes in the x member, about one inch further in. then hack off the part that sticks out. then swap out the top strut mount from the ea82 stuff, with an ea81 strut top. reweld that little rubber bushed bar holder thingy, in a different spot

is it like a bell almost? i bet if you look at your drive shaft(if your a 4x4) you will see a bright shiney ring of metal around it. if so, its from the rubber bushings on the shift lingages. lets the shifter fall down on top of the drive shaft. if its not that, i have no idea, cept its a subaru =]

were in amreica, but the cars werent made here. ban saw is the only thing that will take the bell housing off =]

i happen to have said xmember, never installed it on my hatch. the ea81 and ea82 xmember are different widths, and different mouns for controll arms and such. if you did fit it on it would stick out of the frame, and youd have to run ea82 suspension stuffs.

they hooked me up, for 40 bucks i got brass points, instead of aluminum. you gotta make those parts guys work!

all ea81s i have ever had(too many) have had 75 psi at highway speeds. its not a problem, its a good thing, its what they do. =]

in my opinion, runing around on the road for any length of time(like 2 weeks) would blow up your front cvs.

shouldnt those realy long bolts for the engine xmember be 7/16 instead of 3/8? 3/8s is smaller than an m12, and the 7/16 is just about the same size.