TheLoyale

Yeah I've been on that site before and might switch them to LEDs as the red paint looks ok, but its kinda dim. I don't bother with dimming the dash lights anyway. Post some pics of your FJ! I always like the Old Toyotas

That door still looks pretty stright

Right, there shouldn't be a lot of (Up and Down) movement in it. I'm trying to remember how the ring comes off, I totally forgot. I will look it up in my chilton and get back to you! -Tom

MilesFox is one of the guys you'd want to know along with Scott and I. Fox has torn down Subarus and rebuilt them for years - and really, Subarus are very easy, I've taken the entire front suspension out of my Loyale wagon once along with endless other things lol. MilesFox hosts the meets pretty much, and I'm always good for meeting up and day of the week and giving pointers and such. Fox, Scott, Desmond Jones, and I are pretty much the Subaru guys of SE WI (We are not the Impreza crowed who are all about bling bling blah blah) Haha.

Yeah Fox is damn good with Subarus, if you hang out with him enough - you'll gain his knowledge, I know I've gained alot from him plus reading so much on here. Scott, Fox, and I are a good group of folks. Hope you can swing by sometime. I'm out joy riding in your neck of the woods alot anyhow

How much play do you have in the Axle stubs coming off the tranny? If you grab the inner joint cup of the driveshaft (DOJ) do you have an amount of slop? If so that could be a sign of a bad differential bearing. Not to hard to replace, 3 bolts on the side of the trans where the axle stub comes out. Removed Axle, undo the 3 bolts remove the stub and the ring and you should see the bearing from what I remember.. Its a dubble race style bearing. How does it feel when you engauge the clutch? EDIT: here is a link as to what I'm talking about. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showpost.php?p=230875&postcount=1528

You can open a free account on a photo hosting site like "Photobucket.com" upload your pictures to a folder you can make then just copy the IMG code and paste it during your message and it'll show up as a picture in your finished post Really easy! -Tom

Yeah a Subaru is a good vehicle that doesn't need alot of attention to keep going - Oil leaks are pretty much something your gonna live with lol. "If your Subaru isn't leaking oil, its probably out" but the thing is these leaks really won't get any worse only thing is you'd have to check your oil every week depending. As for possible leaking coming outta the timing covers, very likely, in most cases its the oil pump seal (Looks like a Mickey Mouse head) well one of the "Ears" tend to get sucked in and cause a leak, easy fix. Along with the Cam carrier seal/orings and Crank seal. All easy fixes and not to big of a deal. If you do T-belts, do the leaks at the same time along with the waterpump and Oil pump. And leave the timing covers off (Loads easier and quicker to do belt changes) takes a 1-2hr job down to 20min. I run coverless and so do a lot of these guys. Plus you can see the belts/tensioners everyday if you want. Cheers, -Tom

You know, now that you said stretched cable that does remind me of this Legacy MilesFox had which a somewhat stretched cable it it sometimes would be hard to get into gear. +1 to that answer!

Sounds like something with the Fork or Throwout bearing. :-\

Nope, Only thing I can think of is it comes with one of those camping tent/awning things that clips to the rear hatch when its open.

That looked nice! Should have turned that primer Brat into the wheeler! Eh, your Brat is badass and thats what counts! I must admit I like the Blue '86!

Cool, glad your in the "Know" about most this stuff already. As for adding ATF to the oil, if you were going to add some to clean the gunk out, drain 1/2 qt to 1. qt out of the pan and then put that amount in of ATF, do not over fill and for god sake do not just run ATF! You could try Marvel Mystery Oil in there first, just top it off and run it till you do your next change. ATF is the more extreme route - and shouldn't be left in too long. As for feeding Seafoam into the booster, take the hose off of the booster OR off of the intake where it runs to and put a hose you have laying around (1/2" gas line works) onto where it runs on the intake (That way is much easier to get to then) but anyhoo, hold the engine rpm up some as it'll want to die once the vacuum leak happens (Booster hose) then just have it suck 1/2 or 1 can of Seafoam and then shut it off, let sit for 10-15min and refire (It'll be hard to start this time) then just rev it (harder you rev it the more buildup it's gonna blow out) wait till most of the smoke stops then take it onto the highway and blow the rest out (4000rpm shifts) and that engine will be one happy camper afterwards! Good call on the Valve cover seals, I need to buy Fel-Pros gasket/seal kit and replace those someday. -Tom

NGK BPR6ES plugs and NGK Wires are good. Cap and Rotor, just go with a parts house brand (Napa, Carquest etc.) Do not get Autozones brand though "Tick Of Death" is nothing to worry about, it will not kill the engine - it just gets annoying to hear, that only really happens if a Lifter is collapsed. Run some Seafoam through the Brake booster air hose and also in the fuel to clean it. It will remove carbon and varnish build up. Don't bother putting it in your oil, for your oil, try MMO or some ATF (Then change it at about 200miles) then just put freash 10w-40 in it. NEVER USE FRAM OIL FILTERS! Buy Napa, Propulator, Carquest aka WIX, or Genuine Honeywell filters. Maybe change the fuel filter if you feel like it. -Tom

I like that idea! LED strips are pretty cool - along with being brighter then stock. Can you post a picture of your rig?

Yeah just replace the flasher unit with a different (Wrong unit) ever seen these poor rump roast ghetto folks whos blinkers are flashing like mad? Thats cause they didn't put the correct unit in when the old one burned out and I guess the resistance on these change for different systems. Ever seen the ones that blink really slow? (Stays on for like 2sec) Same reason. wrong flasher unit. Personally, I think having your lights to fast or to slow makes it look as if a dope worked on the car and didn't know what they were doing. But it is your car, do what you like and think is cool

Anyone still have pictures of this? -Tom

Sounds like the piston is just stuck from rust, does he drive this car everyday or has it sat in the yard for a while? Cause even with rust the piston should still be able to move a little (Hydraulics have a lot of pressure ya know) and even if the slider pins rusted and the caliper was stuck to them, the piston should push out enough to still hit the pads. Another idea is, does it have a hand brake? If so that would be manuel cable type (Not hydraulic) so thats one way to see if fluid is getting to the rear or not. If it grabs then you know somethings fishy with the brake lines. -Tom

Not a big deal but, I put on some Urban Camo seatcovers in the Legacy.

Very true, and there are also people who say the EA82 is a bad engine. In my experience, this EA82 has never let me down ever and I've never had to spend much to keep it going. Just do preventive maintenance and the engine will keep going. Same goes for the EA82T. Turbone is proof of this.

The reason why so many hate the EA82T (Turbo) is due to the fact the heads will crack between the valves (Which is not a big deal) but they also tend to warp. Also the Cooling system on the EA82T is a little "ify" As for needing more HP for larger tires, non-sence! The 90hp 1781cc EA82 SPFI engine with a 5spd will turn over 30" tires easily, even my 3AT can turn over larger tires at interstate speeds and I can get up to about 85mph at around 4100rpm. So power is not the issue. If you are looking for a great wheeler, then the EA81 Hatch is the way to go in most ways, lighter and shorter - but wagons are just badass.

Nice looking Jeepster! Been a while since I've seen one of those. As for a Good Subaru with a 5spd and D/R and being Fuel Injected, look for a 1987-89 GL wagon. Those will have the EA82 SPFI. As for a Turbo EA82, there are pros and cons to them and I would just stick with a EA82 Non-turbo. With the EA82 engine you will have two timing belts (One per cam) if you don't care about Fuel Injection look into getting a 1980-'84 GL wagon, that would have the EA81 engine (Internal timing gears, no belts) the EA81 is a more bulletproof engine and a lot of people like this engine more. Either engine are very reliable and get decent gas millage. And yes, any 80s Subaru with an Auto will not have D/R as they are push button 4WD. Hope some of this helps you and good hunting! -Tom

"I - SUBARU" Looks awesome!

I like that! It looks Factory or a damn nice replica. Hella's are a nice adition too!

You know I'll be there to help ya, we could get all that stuff done in one day. Whats going on with the Trans crossmember? Were you able to find a MT crossmember? Engine crossmember doesn't change. And there should be no reason anyone would hack it to work. I'm also down will going out there on the 14th. Keep me posted if you need help.