davebugs

It only works for removal, and re-installation is actually more critical.

Sounds like you may have it done. But a little DOT3, wrench for the bleeder and a rag to put under it wouldn't be a bad idea to take with you.

they have/had atleast 2 threads going about this swap. So the exhaust and stuff I had mentioned in that thread - the thread where they have the engine serial# and want to know what your it is. I believe some searching and reading is in order by the poster rather than starting mulitple threads asking common questions. But that's me. Just giving others a heads up. Several of us answering the same common questions deosn't make any sense to me. Especially when searching would have easily turned up the info to begin with.

Use the flywheel from the 2.5 (it's the only one you have anyways).

Someone will definatively know but I don't think any external tranny filters existed until 97 or 98 or so. I do a lot of 95's and have never seen one on any of them.

No puller needed but a tool to hold it while crank bolt is romoved and more importanlty to hold it when crank bolt is later tightened.

Welcome. Use the search function. Common swap. As far as the year of the donor engine. As long as it has EGR you need to look at the exhaust to see if it's a 95 (dual port - like your 2.5) or later with a single port exhaust. If it's a single you'll need the matching Ypipe. Other than that is basically whether the 2.2 is interference and sometimes plumbing for vacuum lines. I put itming belts, etc on them before installation. But you may want to update your location with something useful. There may be a helpful member near you who has already done this. But lots and lots here using the search about this.

I appreciate the well though out response. I am having tools made and selling them without all the hassle. Small scale 6-10 at a time. There is no tool real close to this, existing Patents I don't know. I had basically come to the conclusion Patenting wasn't worth the effort. The "tool set" I'm currently selling for 200.00. Even if someone had one of these to copy and free machine time I still don't think it would be worth cranking out copies. They are costing me about 160-180 ea. So far all have been sold local (amazing how news like this spreads amongst tech's) but I hope to sell them for 200. Should leave me with a few bucks each and my friend will have some work for his shop. A larger margin would be great as some payback for the development, trial and error, investment in material, hardware, and machining. But I think at this price point folks will be more likely to buy. This will lead to a much better experience for them performing the bushing replacement and I'll make a few bucks. I didn't design the tool to sell it - just for my own use since nothing quality and affordable was available. Actually my return is pretty poor even if they sell for 200.00 with my cost and the hassle of it all. I'll see how it goes. Between Lawyers and foreign ripoff outfits I figured three things would happen. I'd spend even more money, more time, and still be pissed off when it was copied later. Thus the low pricing.

A search should turn this stuff up. The "harmonic balancer" is also the "crankshaft pulley". It does have a rubber section between the bolt in the middle that goes into the crankshaft and the 2 places on the outside that drive the accessory belts. Read it again. He's telling you to put the screwdriver on the ALTERNATOR - actually both ends of it. You can't check the harmonic balancer by listening with a screwdriver. However often if it's seperating (or loose) you can see it wobble when the car is running. Answered while OBW99 was answering so some duplication.

Knowing what year/model might help a bit. If it's a Legacy thypically the harmonic balancer runs BOTH accessory belts (PS and alt/AC comp).

I have an AC Delco. Not bad, better than a cheap pneumatic, but not as good as a good pneumatic.

Someone came to look at a car and I can't get the hood up. Seems attached to the "handle" inside the car jsut fine and had about the typical resistance when I pulled it. Tried one pulling and one bouncing the hood to no avail. Did a search and turned up a thread about using an old hood cable to remove windshields but not what I was looking for. Any guidance? How to get the hood "freed" to get it up to check things out?

This thread caused me to visit tirerack last night. For my size (195/65/15) the Altimax's were rated #2 and were 63.00, the #1 rated tire just beat it and was 110.00. I'm thinking of getting more of them to rotate in with the 4 that I have with abnormal wear due to other issues with the car that have since been fixed (althought the new tierods today will help). Gotta love how tire companies marketing tactics for the past several years is trying to force a person to buy 4 winter tires for non AWD/4WD cars.

Gary, They are very annoying to bleed. I've tried suction and other methods. One of the last things I do is unbolt the slave (if necessary) and push IN on the plunger with the cap to the master off. Often this will get more bubbles. Something else I often do is as soon as I have some pedal I take it for a short ride. I swear it helps get some of the bubbles out - or atleast have them consolidate so they purge better when I get back. Good luck. I'd love to see a definitive how-to on this like the radiator burping instructions. If I know what always worked I'd gladly write it up myself. Dave

I believe the OP was for an Impreza and the wires come out at the top on the drivers side at the hatch. I can't tell from the Legacy illustration for sure where they go on the Legacy - it looked more to me like they went down the drivers post. But I could easily be wrong. But on the Legacy drawing it looks like the wires to the hatch come out the other side (Passenger side) and I believe they were on the Drivers on the one that I had to fix.

A poor design area for sure. Especially since you can't "pull" enough out of the interior compartment to make a good repair. I ended up splicing every wire twice in an attempt to "push" the first splice into the headliner so that it wasn't a flex worry, and have the second splice in the hatch for protection.

I have one already off somewhere around here off a 96 Legacy sedan. But I couldn't have shipped it in time. I also should have one on the 95 Legacy sedan - but again couldn't get it removed and to you in time. Hope your local search turns something up.

Mine are 195/65 15's so they aren't as tall as the 205/70/15's on the OBW's. I usually set cruise about 90 on I80. Lots of windy roads arounds here (hills and all) and VW's handle good to begin with(one of the reasons I drive them), and it usually gets driven "spirited". I haven't noticed a sidewall issue at all. And now that I think about someone else's comment about them being quiet - I think they are. Compared to the prior Goodyears, I can't recall about versus the OEM Continentals, and I forget everything inbetween.

I've had they for a while on my VW diesel. When they were new (a year or so ago) Tirerack had a deal and a rebate on them do I bought my first ever tires from Tirerack. They have been good. Due to other issues I had to rotate them one time and the rears are too unevenly worn to re-rotate so they are all gonna die where they are. Very good on rainy roads. They have 25k on them and are wearing about as I'd expect (other than the abnormal wear which isn't their fault). The 01 VW Golf isn't really a very small or light car. Overall I've been pretty happy with them. And am debating about getting new tires for winter since it looks like I'll be traveling a bit. If the roads really get bad I take my AWD Astro Van. So these have been good, but I don't know what I'll get next. The Promo was General Altimax HP 91H’s fom tirerack 232 + 42 shipping then a 50.00 visa card rebate for 195/65/15's on 7/10/8. YMMV (literally)

Don't know why you'd pull O2 sensors for this code. The knock sensor - is easy. I highly recommend you learn the search function. But basically open hood, stand at the drivers front wheel, bend over. Just before the throttle body down on the engine you'll see it. A black round thing about 1" around with a bolt in the middle. Seaqrch for the instructions. There is some science to the route the cable attached to it take it seems. So you want to note how it is now. It also doesn't take much torque - again - search is your friend. Whether it's your issue or not I don't know. Only one cylinder misfire and not the accompanying cylinder?

Yes the 95-99 should work. But look at the ashtray "tracks" first. I've sold quite a few of them and had a lady here saturday that needed the "tracks" in addition to the ashtray. That's why the ashtray was missing.

Thanks for looking. I thought there were 2 shades on the doors and I figured part was paint, part vinyl decal. I could have had 20 of these fixed last year, and probably 10 fixed this year. If I keep doing Subaru's perhaps I'll buy a set and take them to a vinyl shop to see if they think they can reproduce them cost effectively. What came with your set - all the silver/grey decals for above the rub strip on the doors, and all the silver/grey area on the fenders?

I always wondered a few things - and by now I've scrapped enough that I should have investigated but I always forget. What is decal and what is paint of the silver/grey stuff - especially on the bottoms of the doors. Around here all almost all the rear wheel well's have the jap rust. I have a guy who can fix them but have always stayed away from having it fixed on OB's. Any comments of redoing the lip around the wheel well with decal or paint? Lastly - there are now Vinyl shops in every other garage it seems. Anyone tried having any of this made?

Gary, You know this but I always just yank the engine. It's not that hard with the few handy tools. I worry more about what else to do while the engine it out. I ALWAYS replace the clutch fork clips and have the flywheel done. But things like a timing belt job and related (seals, WP, idlers), I always throw new plugs in while they are easy. Those may be the expensive plugs but why not unless the ones in there are real fresh? Valve covers are easy at this stage. Coolant. That's a late enough model with the metal baffle plate that it's up to you whether to reseal it. I always do whenever I have a Suby engine out. Like I've also stated on the older ones that I usually work on I've been having bad luck with slave cylinders after engine R&R so now I just budget for one. But I'm doing 95-99's with 120-180k on them so they have significant age and miles. Have fun.

I'm a bit ashamed to say that I don't know what a Yahoo list is. Last time I really played with the VW's was probably more than 10 years ago and the 'net has come a long way since then. Only site I even really know of is thesamba and I'd say it's onle fair. Haven't relly spent much time looking though. If you have any links I'd appreciate them. Looking like the buggy may wait until next year. Perhaps I can start with a 97 2.2 that I have setting here and get to work on it, the wireing(I HATE wireing), etc. I don't currently have an ECU but I have a running 95 to part on the trailer.