s'ko

so are you looking for a set of solid lifter heads or hydro lifter heads? I have a set of heads from an 82 in my garage. One of the heads is disassembled b/c I was practicing some porting. If you want them give me a PM. BW

I have a EJ22T with 160k miles on it. I have an extra set of heads that I have ported and cleaned up of unknown mileage. My goal right now is to get the motor into the RX and get 200 crank HP out of it. I think that enlarging the exhaust ports to match the gaskets, gasket matching the headers, the up-pipe and the turbo cleaning up the casting marks in the heads and using a WRX TMIC should help get me close to that point. I cleaned up the valves a bit and they look ok. There is no pitting on the bottom of the valves, but on some of the exhaust valves there is a groove worn into the middle of the valve where it rest against the seats. Do I need to replace the valves or can a shop grind then down? If I get new valves, should I get oversized ones? And does that mean that I need new seats? I have read that EJ22 T have really puny valves. Which engine has large valves that will fit. Also with the cylinders still have their honing marks and the cross-thatching. With 160k or so mile on the clock, would a re-build make sense at this point? Eventually, I think that I would like to get 200 whp out of it, but that’s after I work on the suspension, handling and brakes. I will accomplish that with a EJ20 head swap and intake swap so I don’t want to spend too much money on the head work.

right on. If you need help with getting the thing started when you get the harness back from Shawn put up a post. BW

congrats Eric. now write a song about it. BW

See that's what I ask questions like this....getting chastized/:Flame: here is better that:dead: on the freeway. BW

PM supernova. He's completed it recently. If I still had my EA81 in the BRAT I wouldn't hesitate on doing this. (sits down in his lazyboy) The biggest thing that you need to wrap your brain around is the wiring. This is the most intimidating part of any engine swap. Read up on what needs to be done, (GD's write up is a great resource) PM people who have done it. PM people who have done a weber swap and then make up your mind. As a whole I think the SPFI swap is cheaper and easier to come by b/c you can get the parts from a jukyard. From what I have read the weber takes time to tune and the SPFI takes time to prep the harness. Which do you feel more comfortable with? Good luck. BW

TTT bump. 86BRATMAN. you ever find someone to split it w/you? Mike (ren-man) how's it looking? BW

painted my brat that way.. here are some comparison pics

Yep.. looks like those are it... THANKS:banana: BW

I have finished stripping the EJ22t ECU and engine related wires from the rest of the chassis harness and I have 2 left over wires that I need to ID. This is a 1992 Turbo Legacy wiring harness w/an automatic transmission. The wires are coming from connector F26, the 12 pin gray connector that connects to the engine near the driver side intake manifold. I am using a copy of the wiring diagrams from the Mitchell on demand program and a scanned copy of the FSM from 1992. The wires in question are #9 (white-green) and #10 (green-white). I cannot find any reference to these two wires at all. Anyone know where these go? Also, is there a difference between an automatic tranny ECU and a 5spd ECU? If yes, do I need to do something with the neutral switch signal? Other than that things are going well on the swap.

wow... that's caveman talk right there... Thanks again for the input. BW

There is a problem w/using Imp FWD axles on an EA81. They are too long. Even with a set of EA82 control arms my camber was \--/. I had to solve this by taking my control arms and extending them an inch. I used EA82 ball joint w/no issues.

So now that the dust has settled... Looks like it will not be a great idea for the OBS, since most of it's mileage is commuting and road tripping. The RX might be ok but given the fact that it's got short legs, it may not be the most efficient for the turbo. Right now the RX build is going to be a weekend cruiser/canyon carver. I might do autoX or RallyX with it as well. Short gears not give me the full potential out of the EJ22T so will need to look into a WRX or EJ 5 spd swap for the future. We'll see how this thing behaves first. Thanks for the input. BW

OK. Maybe not a month. It was about 2 weeks and not resting directly on the crank pulley. It was sitting on a moving dolly with the flywheel up. Would that position allow for oil to leak into the cylinder? Also where do I get bearings and rings. The only site I found was Paeco.com. Any other places? BW

It was on an engine stand. Removed the head and there is no hole in the piston. The other head is on, and when I turn the crank, there is a noise like air being forced into the crankcase. The other side pressurizes and releases air like normal. I know that these crankcases have positive pressure so I assume its normal. The noise is not air pushing past the rings b/c when I cover the cylinder, the noise is not muffled. Before I put it on the stand, it was sitting on the front crank pulley for about a month or so. Given that it was in this position, would be oil have seeped into the cylinder. If that is the case, then why not in cylinder 2? it's sounding like i will have to rebuild the engine completely. :-\ but I hope I don't have to. The engine is a EJ22T and it has 161k on it. It was running when I got it from cyberbackpacker. Car was rear ended and totaled out by the insurance company. bw

I had my engine on a engine stand and when I tilted it towards the passenger side, oil started to pour out of the front intake port. I plan to remove the heads but does this mean that I have to rebuild the bottom end? I never had the engine running so I don't know what the issue it. Can I test compression if I the intake manifold is of? BW

:cool: :confused: :dead: :cool: :banghead: :eek: :Flame: :cool: :cool: :cool: :lol:

I have a 2k OBS with a 5 spd tranny 4.11 final ratio that is on it's last legs. I have a spare EA82 full time 4wd 5 speed tranny w/center diff lock. (NOT D/R:mad: ) w/matching rear LSD. 3.7 final ratio. Would it be worth it to do the swap? Would the locking center diff lock and the rear LSD justify the cost and labor associated with this swap? cost would mostly be an adapter plate and labor would be re-drilling an EA82 flywheel to bolt onto the EJ motor. I probably need to do my clutch at the end of the year so I will have to drop the tranny anyways to get that done. I also have an RX that I could take the D/R out of. Would putting the D/R 5 spd into the OBS make it worth it? Choices are: 1) OBS w/stock tranny replacement and EJ22T RX w/D/R FT 4WD 2) OBS w/S/R FT 4wd and EJ22T RX w/D/R FT 4WD 3) OBS w/D/R FT 4wd and a EJ22T RX w/S/R FT 4WD Ok ready..... set..... debate...... BW

or a set of EJ20 heads and intake.

Thanks for the input. The cool thing is that this is an extra set of heads that I have for the EJ22T so I can get the work done on them first and then slap them on the engine w/minimal down time. BW:banana:

So I have never rebuilt heads before and I want to do some work on the EJ22T before I drop it into the RX. I priced out some parts from Paeco (paeco.com) and for Comp Valves, brass guides, valve seals, stainless steel seats and retainers, the price is $1,104. Does that sound about right? Is that too high? Do I need to replace all of those parts? The head is of unknown mileage so how do I check for play in the valves? I am basically want a reliable powerful motor w/good low end grunt. Right now it's going to be a more of a really fast weekend car, but I am eventually thinking about rally or auto cross and possible stage rally. Should I just keep the motor stock and then when I want to compete do the head work? Thanks BW

cool. Don't sacrifice Rocky. there is a chance that the car will be crushed via the people curse award and it will definately by banged up. Find a true beater and use that.

Welcome to the Board. a 86 gl 1.8 4X4 is pretty vague. Is it a wagon/coupe/sedan(ea82) or is it a hatchback(ea81) what is the fuel system (carby for fuel injected) As a general rule, parts from like body styles will fit. most parts from an EA81 will work with an EA82. The first question that you need to ask yourself is "what kind of Soobie do I want?" Will it be a Daily driver, off-roader, 80's sleeper There are some great examples of all of these here. Then you need to ask "how good am I with a wrench?" stick around, do some searches, then figure out what you want to do with it. There are plenty of people here to help you and give you guidance but we can only help you, if you know where you want to go with this car. Nothing is more frustrating than someone wanting to do MAJOR car modifications, like an engine swap who has no idea how to loosen a nut. Have fun and keep it alive. BW

Anyone tried the idea of making an electric water pump for their Soobies? Here is what I have so far. Get a 180F fan switch to turn on at the same time the thermostat opens at 180F. I was thinking of putting the water pump at the bottom of the radiator to let gravity prime the pump. Here’s where it get’s interesting. I was thinking about using a 12v marine bilge pump, maybe the one from harbor freight. The inlet is 3/8 inch and the outlet is ¾ inch. It flows at 120 GPH at 5 psi. The stock water pump flow rate is 20 GPH. So I will have a system that will narrow to less than an inch at the pump and then widen to 2 ½ inches or so at the radiator and engine. Is that going to be a problem? I am hoping that the larger hoses will keep the flow rate down. I realize that if the flow rate is too high, then the water will not have proper time to cool. So what do you think? Possible? To expensive? To complicated?

Hope this helps. I am referencing engine compartment diagrams from an 87 gl-10 and a 1989 XT The XT TPS has 4 wires. wire 1 is a black wire and it becomes black-red. It goes to pin 16 on the large CE connector, the one with 20 wires. It's between a grn-yel one and a white one wire 2 is white and it connects to pin 21 on the ECU. It's on the 16 pin connector. It's on the end with a black wire next to it. wire 3 is green and becomes black. It splits to go to the A/T control unit, and connect to the ECU at pin 22 next to wire 2 wire 4 is blu-whit and splits to go to the AT control unit. it also splits and goes to the check conn. It connects to the ECU at pin 25. The same connector as wires 2 and 3. GL-10 throttle sensor has the three wires that go to the same ECU pin positions. The 4th wire is located at the throttle switch and connects to the ECU at pin 25. The other wire on the throttle switch is blk/red and appears to be a ground. So you need to take your 4 pin connector and splice the wires to their corresponding colors. and it should be fine. pm me if you need copies of my diagrams. BW