The Dude Abides

Are you going to paint it or leave it yellow. Looks like youve got some side mirrors to replace as well. Should be a great party wagon or tailgate bus. Or even a great tow rig as well. How does it run.

What did you use to clean it, how did you clean it.

IM not even positive its the bearings. But the scrapeing noise increases as i go faster. Is this something i can grease from the backside to prolong its life alittle. It seems to be getting worse every few months or so. Anything else it could possibly be.

Workin on it mick, workin on it. After i get my 2 inch lift bring the thornbirds over and well see if they fit.

Ive got a good plan for that, trust me.

Mick Are you seriously telling me its easier to replace the entire trailing arm then the rear wheel bearing. It will probally cost me 50 bucks for a trailing arm from the junkyard vs 10 for the bearings. It cant be that hard.

Maybe its me but on those straight blocks there doesnt seem to be alot of meat around those bottom bolt holes. I can see something getting riped apart at some point.

Ok well thats good that that isnt anything serious. But........... thats the side thats makeing the grindeing noise. I moved the passanger side wheel and didnt hear the noise but when i moved the driverside it started makeing that grindeing. Bearings probally.

The triton V8s and V10s all are a nightmare. The Coil on Plug idea is a good indea but so freekin expensive to replace. You dont do those all at once. At 60 a piece its a bit much. But yea great power. I did alittle work today. Checked out the rear pumpkin situation and thats all fine and dandy. Continuing to chase demons.

Ok update i have the 4 matching wheels now. So let me know which you think is better. Black or white.

Think i found the culprate look for new thread.

Ok gang help me out, what the heck is missing from this picture. Lets look clooooooooser. What the heck is missing. Oh and i found this yakama wrench, just curious as if anyone knows what it goes to. Buy the way, some pics of my helper. I rewarded her with her first driveing lesson.

Ok removed the rear plug (which really really really really really sucked). Full of diff fluid everything is okeydokey in that aspect. But i found something else. Check other thread.

What are some possible avenues to check if the rear dif fluid is full on my car. As ive mentioned before i have this humm comming from the car. It only really seems to come up when i get above 20mph. Could i have some worn parts on the driveshaft or bushings. Also my car is a dog latelly, how can i possibly check to see if the car has jumped time at all. Thanks Ben

Still not understand which would be the best way to go. Nissan for ease or GM for less cost.

Lets See. Few weeks ago me and a buddy did the rear disc swap on my DL. A week after that i had to go back and finish up some LOSE ends that werent tightened on the brake job. Last weekend i replaced the manofild gaskets where i managed to strip out a bolt hole:mad: so now that needs retapped. Installed my yakama roof rack. Been slowly working on rust issues. Really need to finish that up before winter. Future projects. Valve Cover Gaskets Thermastat Retap Exhaust hole. Clean up pugs and repaint. Finish rust project before snow falls.

Hey my car runs ungodly slow. How can i check if my timeing is off.

Hold on i got this. Yes subaru xt 4cyl 2wd springs and struts will lower the front around 2 inches. Now the back, wellll thats another monkey all together.

If i were you GD i would inform the previous owner of what kind of shenanigans the shop is up to. They might not get the price of there car back but they will be grateful of the info you have provided them. Also have you driven the car hard. I mean punch the hell out of it. Maybe that might show up some problems you are missing. Just a thought.

I like the hide it idea. Though are you planning on takeing the car away if his grades falter.

Local guy didnt have the socket so i had to buy one. Right hand side took 7 turns to reach 150lbs:eek: Left side took 1 and a half. All is well and nice and smooth. Thanks for the help all.

If your only planning on staying a few more years, you might want to think of possible selling points for potential buyers. You might not need it to store cars but the next owner might. So id get the biggest door you can. The next guy might only need room for his honda accord and his wifes toyota avalon. Just think of it that way.

Brent, we totally need to do this next year.

Another one.

Let me elaborate. What they are saying is that these motors while probally ok in there day are now very worn and tired. They blow headgaskets easily and the cooling system is inadequate. It will be most likely a nightmare to try and get the thing to run right. Ive heard horrar stories about people putting 800 bucks or more into a turbo engine only to have it blow headgaskets again in another year. Your best bet for cheap is to swap to the non turbo motor in that catagory. If you want cool then to the ej swap. Granted the wireing isnt the funnest thing but when your done you will have a 2.2 from a legacy that is one of the best motors subaru ever produced. An engine that produces 60 more hp and loads more torque. And you will have a reliable drivetrain to last you a long time. Everything else on these cars is great, just the engine always takes a dump. Hope this helps. Ben