The Dude Abides

There are write ups on here about doing redrilling. Redrilling for 4 - 5 - and 6 lug. Some are more difficult then others. Keep trying the search function, you will find what you seek.

One way good sir.

What size tire are you running now markus56 and what type of roof bars are you running. And how did you fasten the bedframe to the roof bars.

Pretty sure you have a ea wagon like me. I instanned 6.5 speakers in my door with no problem.

I guess its safe to assume that the tank is more then likely behind that wheel well pannel. Looks like a pain in the butt to take off. Yea the bottom of my hose wasnt attached to anything, but i need to check it out. Would be nice to have that this winter.

How and where can i access this. I tried to get it to work tonight, the pump still pumps. Turned it on and it puked it all out the quarter pannel. Somethings not hooked up. Oh and a side question. Anyone have a good way to stick the interior pannels back under the rubber seal around the glass. Ben

Well mount up sir, well head out there next summer.

Me

Timeing belts are fairley new, but i do hear noises from the timeing cover. I suspect it is the tensioners but how would that be an interment problem Also, brent i dont have anything to do the compression test with.

Good sir, i have 200k on the original motor in my car. Saying this will happen again is kinda a shot in the dark. Sure it might happen again, then it might now. What you can do is throw a cheep motor in there for now so you got transportation. Then do the work yourself, its not that hard. Especially if you dont need that engine to run your car. If you dont have a place to do it then thats one thing. If i were you i would save my money for something else like a nice legacy. I like my loyale but it isnt the greatest for somethings. Your kinda dumping alot of money into something not worth that much. I love my car but im not spenging 1200 bucks for a motor to go into a 500 dollar car. Just saying and not bashing, believe me. If youve got that much to spend then why not go legacy shopping. Might not run into so many problems. I never did catch where you are from.

Dude you can pick up a used engine for 500 bucks or less depending on where you are. Spend the day putting it in yourself and your golden. If your a poor college student, think like one.

Then yoru best is to do just a straight engine swap then. If yours is FI make sure and grab a engine from a 88 or newer sedan or wagon. The 87 and back are carbed. Though you could use your current FI system you have on the motor, its a pain and more then likely complicated for you to do.

You said an intake gasket what about a headgasket. I seem to have a small coolant leak problem but cant track it down. I dont run through coolant regularly and i dont see any green puddles, only brown and red ones LOL

LOL brent i know where the spring goes and i put it back, i was just curious what it was for. gross - i checked out the cts today and im curious which connection do i need to check for corosion. I took the green one apart and it looks ok. But how in mary mother of god do i clean inside such a tight area. Also am i suspost to remove the plug from the block and clean some type of sensor in there. I have never messed with that gasket until recently so if its someth8ing that just popped up all of a sudden i dont know. I have checked for the most part all the vacume hoses and i see none lose or cracked. How would i clean out the inside of the hoses. Is there something i can spray on the engine while its running to help me find a vacume leak. Oh and all these problems remained the same before and after i replaced the cap and rotor. And werent a problem when i changed the plugs and wires. Its seriously bogs down in the beginning. Ill step on the gas and it will stumble, sometimes backfire if i give it to much gas. Need to feather the peddle to get it going, or get the rpms up really high then its ok to move but still boggy. As far as my cat and resoner go. Im not sure about the cat, but the resoner is rattling. If there clogged i would have no idea.

Before others chime in i will, and ill be nice. The ea82t wasnt the best motor for performance and hp. And buy designe there are headgasket problems, alot of them. If your wanting to upgrade then the ejswap is the easer and better way to go. Bigger aftermarket following for that engine. Very reliable and indestructable ej22. The hardest part about the engine swap is the wireing harness. They make adaptors that would bolt up to the trans you have. Check out the search function and do some checking. They have many many wrightups, full of many many wonderful things. Trust me, the ea82t is only going to gain you about 15 to 20hp. VS the EJ swap which will net you almost 50hp and loads of torque.

My drivers side leaks as well. How do you adjust them from the rollers.

Project murder wagon huh:-\ Well to each there own. As far as aftermarket support goes, these vehicles have none. You can do searches but pretty much, cross breeding subarus will get you results. Definately look up an alternator upgrade before you install any huge type of stereo.

Sorry gross, i keep thinking everyone knows me on here. 1988 Subaru DL Fuel Injected. New Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor. As stated just cleaned the throttle body, maf, and IAC. No Check Engine Light I did notice it doesnt rev up and down like it used to. It doesnt seem to high idle though ever, unless im pressing the vertical peddle. Thoughts, questions, querys, posers.

Bump for being lost in the shuffle

WoW what a difference alittle cleaning can make. Cleaned the IAC and replace the O-ring under the power stearing resevour. Just curious, an o ring does go there because there was none when i took it off. Also i removed the upper part of the throttle body to get the IAC off. Was the only way seeming feasable to take it off. But anyway, cleaned the gook out of the IAC and it idles better now. But i still have mega mega bogg down when i first start off. When its warmed up its fine but in the beginning its terrible. Cleaned the upper part of the throttle body as well. Anyone else have an idea what could be causeing the boggyness. On one more thing, when i removed the top part of the throttle body i had to remove a spring. When i assembled it i forgot to put the spring back but it still ran fine and reved up and down like it should. What is this spring for.

LOL well i have a ea82 wagon so i dont knwo for sure but were the same height. Again looks great and if it works for you, then awsome.

Looks great bill. Butttttttt.............................. with the space being so small in these cars. Dont you find your leg bumping against that often. Maybe turning on an off certain things. Just curious. Still, looks awsome though.

Was it rotten bill.

WoW what a difference alittle cleaning can make. Cleaned the IAC and replace the O-ring under the power stearing resevour. Just curious, an o ring does go there because there was none when i took it off. Also i removed the upper part of the throttle body to get the IAC off. Was the only way seeming feasable to take it off. But anyway, cleaned the gook out of the IAC and it idles better now. But i still have mege mega bogg down when i first start off. When its warmed up its fine but in the beginning its terrable. Cleaned the upper part of the throttle body as well. Anyone else have an idea what could be causeing the boggyness. On one more thing, when i removed the top part of the throttle body i had to remove a spring. When i assembled it i forgot to put the spring back but it still ran fine and reved up and down like it should. What is this spring for. Thanks Ben

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