subaru360

98 might have 4 bolts or 8 bolts on the bellhousing, it was the change over year. It will work either way there are just a few extra holes, the 4 will line up. 92 is not an easy swap into a 98, lots is different with wiring and no EGR.

As far as I know any EJ seperator plate will fit any other EJ. 99 forester probably will have the balck plastic plate.

This car is finished! I ended up putting a wilwood 1" bore racing master cylinder in it. The one it had was only 3/4" bore. It might have been the original, I'm not sure, it didn't have enough volume for 4 wheel discs. I put a GM internally regulated alternator on it also. The owner is going to take the radiator to a radiator shop to get fixed when he gets it home, I'm all done with it. I drove it around the block it handles awesome, like a go kart.

I could get you one from an outback, it wouldn't be LSD but shipping across the country would kill the deal.

Head gaskets, extended test drive on highway to see if it overheats. Tight circles in a parking lot to check for torque bind. The piston slap noise is just annoying they run forever like that.

96-99 outback automatic, 96-99 legacy GT automatic, and all forrester xt turbo and outback xt turbo had 4.44 gearing. Most JDM STi's also had 4.44

360's are worth discussing! I was told about this one a few days ago. I have been fighting the urge to go look at it. I need another project like I need a hole in the head. It does look cool though. Oh and to search craigslist in multipe cities, use http://www.crazedlist.org

EA engines don't weigh much. I can pull one out of a car myself by hand if I really want to. But with 2 people it's very easy to lift it out. It is much easier to work on out of the car.

Don't give up on it, I liked that car. You don't need a hoist or stand for an EA81, you can just pick them out by hand. We do it in the junkyards. If you really think you are over your head I could swap it for you, I don't charge a lot.

I've got the EA81 here that was in the superoo. It's apart now it looked great inside and there is a new factory gasket set to go with it. I can sell you that really cheap, like say $100. The guy who owns it really doesn't care what I do with it, I'll just put it towards what he owes me. I'll even put the engine back together for you. I've got a trans also, is yours 4WD, I forget.

I was looking at an 84 EA81 brat at the U-pull yard yesterday and the radiator was different. The 80 wagon I got the EA71 out of the radiator was gone before I got to it.

The starter actually works fine despite how it looks. I was told not to worry about painting anything. So it runs! It fired right up on the first try. No funky noises smoke or anything. I didn't get an alternator yet so I didn't run it long. I drove it out into the driveway and back. The radiator leaks, not sure what to do about that yet, I haven't seen any sources for a new one. I might have to just solder the hole up. The brake pedal is ok, not perfect. I've bled the heck out of the brakes, if I pump it a few times it gets a little better. Maybe the master cylinder is going bad? I don't know if this is a specific master cylinder for the 4 wheel discs or the same as all the other gen 1's? Maybe that's even the problem, it might be the wrong one and too small?

This car is just about done. The weber carb is on now. I should be firing it up in the next few days. Just need an alternator now. I think I am going to put a GM one on it.

It will not fit. Even if it did, it would not make any difference in performance.

He has a carb, with the throttle held open no fuel will go into the engine. The numbers aren't bad, they will go up slightly with all the plugs out and it spinning faster. Usually you don't want to see more than 10% difference between highest and lowest cylinder.

I know, I'm having a bad feeling brake parts, if needed, for this thing are going to be coming out of Japan or Australia. At least the pads are almost new and the rotors look useable. The brakes were sticking bad, I have all the pads out so I could roll it around. I'm taking the calipers off and apart soon. Hopfully they don't need seals, just a good cleanup on the sliders. It had brake fluid in it, good stuff too, looks like motul blue maybe, but it's been in there since the 80's...

The hinged doors are trapdoors for oil control. They keep the oil pump pickup from being uncovered either in hard turn or on hard acceleration depending on where they are in the pan.

No it's never been on the street. This has been a race car since the day it was new. It's the first factory Subaru race car in the US.

That's what I was thinking. This was a factory race car from 1972. I think Subaru may have sent over some JDM parts for it. I've seen some old magazine pics of it and it had the JDM dual carb intake manifold on it in 1972 also. Now the question is where to get seals for these calipers if it needs them.

Anything is possible. This car did have a VW beetle transmission in it at one point. But I think they are subaru brakes of some sort. The pins and retainers on those VW brakes look different. I will try to get some more pics of the back ones and look for markings on them.

I might go, I think we are going to be in Maine that week anyway. If I go I'll have my kids also. I wanted to go the last Rally America race here in PA, but I was drag racing with the WRX that weekend.

These are the brakes on the Superoo 72 GL racecar. The fronts may be original, the rear disc are not. If you know what they are from let me know so I can order either rebuilt calipers or caliper kits for it. Rear- Front-

I did some work on the wiring today it's mostly done. I ran almost all new wires and fused all the circuits. I need to pick up a battery and and alternator for it now. Next week I'm doing the brakes. I'm going to make a seperate thread with pics of the brakes, I'm not sure exactly what it has, I might need some help with ID on them.

I hope this isn't dexcool. That stuff is the worst. I was a GM dealer tech for over 10 years. Lets just say I made a lot of money off dexcool related problems.