screwbaru2

So you didn't use Subaru gaskets? Let us know how you make out with that. All the advice here is to use only soob gaskets on that motor.

So how much do you want for your STi 6spd MT? I should have parted this car out!:mad:Almost 2 grand and 6 weeks into this and I still don't have a F%^%&ing car:banghead: Now another $700 for a driveshaft!!! I'm the one whos getting the shaft!!

Wel no good news there. I need the front of course. Thanks all. It's off to see what the fix for this is.

I've got 200K on my 97 2,2 lego and 210K on the 2.2 in my 97 OB original.

Thanks, I'll let the shop know this week!

The front U joint in my 97 OB 5 spd MT is shot. I have a driveshaft from a 97 Lego AT can I use it?

Did you do anything at the bottom of the hole for seating of the pipe? That's what the machine shop is wondering about, how to machine the seat for the flared pipe.

My 1997 OB has hyd. clutch so it's ealier than 99.

Around here that car would go for about $2500. > $3000.00 dollars. That's almost a bulletproof setup. If it's good buy it!

I brought the car to be inspected this AM. It passed emissions!. They failed it for the bad front axle:mad:. The new axles are due to be delivered Friday, so next week I'll bring it back and get the sticker. I'm ready to do another ej22 swap!

I bought a non-egr engine by mistake. I converted it to a egr engine. You'll need a egr head as well as a intake. There is a pipe that goes from the egr @ the intake to the head. I've got a head in a machine shop that is working on drilling an egr port in the non egr head, but is having trouble machining the seat for the pipe. I'll let you know if the shop can drill the port and how they did the seat. Maybe it'll help.

I'd expect a CEL also.

I'd change that PCV and make sure the hoses are clear. Can't say it'll make the noise go away but the engine will run even better!

Well I think I've got the ecu fooled into seeing a purge flow! I also saw how to rig the EVAP system so it'll actually work. I blocked a hose from the baro sensor. I drove it to the parts store and back, about 6 miles total not much but not CEL. The CEL had been coming on as soon as the car was started, so I'm hopful. I need some CEL free drive time before my emissions insp Thursday morning, to clear any flags that maybe set. I'll have the EVAP sys done up right by then I'll be good for another 2 years. I just need 1 good day on Thursday:rolleyes:

The A/C drain hose is probably misrouted into the passenger compartment. It should be hanging in front of the firewall on the passenger side of the engine comparment.

Here's an update: The P1134 is gone. Now it's throwing a P1143. Which I've tracked down to the lack of a purge canister setup. I can make the code change to a P0441 by replacing the vac hose on the baro. sensor with a filter. Any ideas how I can either rig a canister system or fool the ecu into thinking there is one?

Thanks for the input McDave. I'm going to register it next week, drive it to work for a couple of days and if the CEL doesn't come back I'll get it emissions insp. There are no wires crossed. I routed everything correctly and used tywraps where requried.

Hey your just full of good news! I just did a 2.2/2.5 swap into this car could that have anything to do with it? With emission laws the way they are today the last thing I want is the dealer poking around my car. It is a 5spd MT. I've got a ecu from a AT lego same year would that work? I've owned this car for 6 years never had a ecu problem, now what it went? I'm going out now to drive it around again, see if that CEL stays off. edit: Just got back no CEL Looks good!

I installed a OEM knock sensor in the 99 Imp. Drove the car for 50+ miles tonight and no CEL. I'll say its fixed. On the 97 OB the jury is still out. I installed another OEM knock sensor in the OB. After starting the car the CEL came on. This time it was a "p1134 undocumented code" whatever that is. I cleared the code, drove the car until it got to operating temp without a CEL. I'm going to start and drive it again when I get home this AM to see the CEL comes back on.

I think its the soft metal, copper? There's a lot of flex and they're barely touching.

I'll throw my .2 in here. My 97 OB MT 5spd has 260K on it No torque bind. Got a 96 AT Imp with 180K has torque bind. My wife's 99 AT Imp 160K no torque bind. So far the MT has it!

Your doing all you can with the PB. If you have heat you could try that too. This is why I replace the whole driveshaft at the 1st sign of trouble. Once one goes the other is not far behind.

I didn't where to post this so move it if its in the wrong place please. I just ordered parts from subarupartsforyou.com. I couldn't find the shifter return spring I needed so I emailed them, here's the reply I got: "I will include that spring in you order at no charge!" Nice people to do business with just thought I'd mention it.

The word ABOUT (About 3.5 qts.) would mean that it could be more or less. As always use the dipstick for the finally measure. I'd buy 5 qt. so I'd have extra to top it off later. What a bunch of sticklers!!

About 3.5 qts.