EVOthis

ive been waiting for a question like this to surface (is there any way to trick the ECU into thinking the EGR is still there?)...im not that smart...but im very intrested to hear the replies.....

at least it was a noticeable color difference.......that should give you some peace of mind that at least you did something for the trans by changing it.....

yeah it felt kind of weird removing the cam caps and everything....ive never gone further than the timing belt on anything........but yeah so far so good......

alrighty....i got it all apart today...to get the cam sprokets off i used a huge prybar and just rammed it in one of the sprokets and i used a gear wrench to get the bolt out......i marked the timing belt in relation to the cam sprokets (used white out)....i got the cam seals out (harder than i thought)i think it was because they were dry rotted.....i also got bothe cam caps off and replaced the orings and put those back on.....so it looks like monday will be my next free day to work on it so in all luck i can get it back together correctly and it will run......if anyone has any other tips they can offer that would be most appreciated.......thanks again for all your inputs and advice.....

....its the exact same symptoms i had......do you notice anything wrong with the trans.....does it go smooth into every gear?..is it popping out?...etc...... if you dont have a haynes manual for your car may i recommend getting one......it is extremely helpful.....read through it and you will find diagrams of the shift linkage.....those little springs are exposed to the elements so they do corrode and rust and they do break....and when they do you will feel your shifter have some excessive play.......if you are able to take a look under the vehicle (as keltik said check the mounts and check to see if that little spring is there (it connects the shift rod and the stay rod).....

thanks aircraft engineer......that is really helpful...any info i can get on the subject will be helpful seeing as i have never done the cam seals before......ill let you know if i run into any problems....ill hopefully start the work tomarrow.....

thanks for the tip aircraft engineer i will def. give that a try......the only thing im removing is the radiator fans so i dont really know if i could get an impact gun down there.....maybe a butterfly or something....but i did just buy a serpentine belt tool that came with a couple crowfoots so this will be a good chance to use that........so with one hand i have a ratchet and socket on the bolt and the other hand i have holding the crowfoot on the sproket?

i had that exact same problem.....i finally realized the shifter bushings have never been done in the life of the car (190,000 miles) and i had no return spring......i ended up getting a new trans though becuase of other internal problems........but at least for me the return spring did the trick.......

thanks subaru360......i will def do that....thankfully i have an ej22 in a 96' legacy so no interference engine here.....i had a scare a while back when i first bought the car, i knew nothing about subarus and my timing belt jumped a few teeth......

yeah it just kind of seems dumb to move the filter from the origional location on the drivers shock tower.......:-\

thanks for the tips fellas...unfortunately i wont be able to begin work until friday....:-\

thanks nj and grossgary........i was thinking i could hold the cam sproket with a strap wrench and get the bolt out.......it worked for the HB so i guess its worth a try......any other tips on how to get that off without the special subaru tool?......

thanks again guys......i only have one question remaining which hopefully you can answer......im going to reuse the timing belt so obviously i will mark it before i take it off.......once i get the belt off and am ready to remove the camshaft sprokets do i have to index them or anything (the cam sprokets)?....... i only have about 2 hours a day to work on this so hopefully if i start tomarrow i will be done on friday.... ...thanks again for your help....most appreciated....

thanks guys.......like i said i just did the timing belt about 15k ago and ALL the pulleys and tensiors are good,the oil pump is dry, the water pump was just done,and the front cranks seal is dry,brand new valve cover gaskets... i got the cam seals today and the o rings.......do i have to like index the cam sprokets or anything before i remove them?.......grossgary- so let me get this straight 1 oring and 1 cam seal go in the front of the drivers side head/cam cap 1 oring goes in the rear cam cap on the passangers side head 1 cam seal goes in the front of the passangers side head......... oh also do i have to drain the oil to do this job? Should i lube the o rings or the cam seals a little with oil or anything before install? sorry for all the questions....i read the haynes manual and it wasnt too clear.......

I have a 96 legacy ej22 and am looking to replace the cam seals i have made sure that nothing else is leaking and have come to the conclusion that it is the seals. I did the timing belt around 15k ago and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what else i should replace while i'm in there... The water pump was also done not to long ago and the oil pump and front crank seals are dry, any help would be super

+1^ ditto......

yes it does indeed sound like a head gasket issue....however many people have told me in the past.."when it comes to cooling system problems start with the least expensive and work your way up"........dont know how much merit there is to that....(sounds like a shoddy mechanic if you ask me).......nonetheless.......i would check/replace the thermostat....if you havent already....... By the way this is a 2.5 were talking about here?

i guess you could make a trip to sears/lowes and see what you could rig up.......dont know how safe it would be though......

Junkyard time......

.......i always count the teeth as a last check before i crank her over......for the 2.2 i believe between the passanger side cam sproket and the crank there should be 44 teeth (mark to mark) and between the drivers side cam and the crank there should be 40.5 teeth (mark to mark).......just another tip which at least proves helpful to me.....

"With all those years, it might also be a good idea to replace the fork and retaining springs (or clips) and also the clutch cable. I did both on my car and it's a 96."......... Frag- I also have a 96 and i got a clutch cable for it......i am having trouble getting the clip off of the bracket by the clutch pedal.....and tips or tricks you have used to get that thing off..... aartod-yes others have said...the one thing i cant stress enough is those clips.....i just got done my clutch in my 96 legacy and i pulled the trans.....it seemed every time i got the trans aligned i would see a clip drop out of the bellhousing...profanities ensured....i messed around for almost a half hour trying to keep those clips on the throwout bearing while getting the trans in........

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf Take a look at that article....it helped me.......

NICE......Beautiful day for it too....

Egr.....

yeah it seemed like a smart idea....i just bought some MMO and i havent heard the noise in around 75 miles so hopefully its gone for good... ....but if i ever have to deal with it again i just might give cleaning the rocker shafts a try......