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thanks aircraft engineer......that is really helpful...any info i can get on the subject will be helpful seeing as i have never done the cam seals before......ill let you know if i run into any problems....ill hopefully start the work tomarrow.....

thanks for the tip aircraft engineer i will def. give that a try......the only thing im removing is the radiator fans so i dont really know if i could get an impact gun down there.....maybe a butterfly or something....but i did just buy a serpentine belt tool that came with a couple crowfoots so this will be a good chance to use that........so with one hand i have a ratchet and socket on the bolt and the other hand i have holding the crowfoot on the sproket?

i had that exact same problem.....i finally realized the shifter bushings have never been done in the life of the car (190,000 miles) and i had no return spring......i ended up getting a new trans though becuase of other internal problems........but at least for me the return spring did the trick.......

thanks subaru360......i will def do that....thankfully i have an ej22 in a 96' legacy so no interference engine here.....i had a scare a while back when i first bought the car, i knew nothing about subarus and my timing belt jumped a few teeth......

yeah it just kind of seems dumb to move the filter from the origional location on the drivers shock tower.......:-\

thanks for the tips fellas...unfortunately i wont be able to begin work until friday....:-\

thanks nj and grossgary........i was thinking i could hold the cam sproket with a strap wrench and get the bolt out.......it worked for the HB so i guess its worth a try......any other tips on how to get that off without the special subaru tool?......

thanks again guys......i only have one question remaining which hopefully you can answer......im going to reuse the timing belt so obviously i will mark it before i take it off.......once i get the belt off and am ready to remove the camshaft sprokets do i have to index them or anything (the cam sprokets)?....... i only have about 2 hours a day to work on this so hopefully if i start tomarrow i will be done on friday.... ...thanks again for your help....most appreciated....

thanks guys.......like i said i just did the timing belt about 15k ago and ALL the pulleys and tensiors are good,the oil pump is dry, the water pump was just done,and the front cranks seal is dry,brand new valve cover gaskets... i got the cam seals today and the o rings.......do i have to like index the cam sprokets or anything before i remove them?.......grossgary- so let me get this straight 1 oring and 1 cam seal go in the front of the drivers side head/cam cap 1 oring goes in the rear cam cap on the passangers side head 1 cam seal goes in the front of the passangers side head......... oh also do i have to drain the oil to do this job? Should i lube the o rings or the cam seals a little with oil or anything before install? sorry for all the questions....i read the haynes manual and it wasnt too clear.......

I have a 96 legacy ej22 and am looking to replace the cam seals i have made sure that nothing else is leaking and have come to the conclusion that it is the seals. I did the timing belt around 15k ago and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what else i should replace while i'm in there... The water pump was also done not to long ago and the oil pump and front crank seals are dry, any help would be super

+1^ ditto......

yes it does indeed sound like a head gasket issue....however many people have told me in the past.."when it comes to cooling system problems start with the least expensive and work your way up"........dont know how much merit there is to that....(sounds like a shoddy mechanic if you ask me).......nonetheless.......i would check/replace the thermostat....if you havent already....... By the way this is a 2.5 were talking about here?

i guess you could make a trip to sears/lowes and see what you could rig up.......dont know how safe it would be though......

Junkyard time......

.......i always count the teeth as a last check before i crank her over......for the 2.2 i believe between the passanger side cam sproket and the crank there should be 44 teeth (mark to mark) and between the drivers side cam and the crank there should be 40.5 teeth (mark to mark).......just another tip which at least proves helpful to me.....

"With all those years, it might also be a good idea to replace the fork and retaining springs (or clips) and also the clutch cable. I did both on my car and it's a 96."......... Frag- I also have a 96 and i got a clutch cable for it......i am having trouble getting the clip off of the bracket by the clutch pedal.....and tips or tricks you have used to get that thing off..... aartod-yes others have said...the one thing i cant stress enough is those clips.....i just got done my clutch in my 96 legacy and i pulled the trans.....it seemed every time i got the trans aligned i would see a clip drop out of the bellhousing...profanities ensured....i messed around for almost a half hour trying to keep those clips on the throwout bearing while getting the trans in........

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf Take a look at that article....it helped me.......

NICE......Beautiful day for it too....

Egr.....

yeah it seemed like a smart idea....i just bought some MMO and i havent heard the noise in around 75 miles so hopefully its gone for good... ....but if i ever have to deal with it again i just might give cleaning the rocker shafts a try......

speaking of that porc. that happened to me when i was putting my clutch back in the first time i did it.....i accidently tightened the bolt to tight and snap.....i ended up just drilling out the old bolt and putting a longer pinch bolt in with a nut on the end...works just as good......

i wouldnt go with anything but subaru for this.....besides its not that much more than a universal one...i know you said you need the front sensor but i just bought a rear one for my 96 legacy and i think it cost my like $125...

the guys we use at work are called LKQ.....there prices are very reasonable and every engine and trans they sell comes with a 6 month warranty.....i believe they ship all over the country......

yeah it has never happened before as far as i know....i will pick up some marvels mystery oil tomarrow and dump her in the filler neck.....i have around 2000 miles to go till an oil change so im sure over that period it should help things out..........man when i heard that noise i just thought to myself OH GOD NO! i just put another transmission in it like 3 or 4 days ago......you know i bought that car for about 750$ and ive put close to $4000 in parts in it over the past 15 months (not including the $1500 sound system)....thanks to all for your suggestions though......glad it wasnt something more severe......

ok just took it for a little drive and i got home and lifted the hood and the ticking is gone.....i didnt beat the snot out of the car but i did give it a little gas here and there...had it up to about 70 mph.....but now the engine is quiet and smooth again.....could a hydraulic lash adjuster could have stuck for a moment?.....my oil was overfilled a few days ago by a little bit.....but i have done alot of driving and have a few small oil leaks and is now back down to the normal level........this is like way out there but could have my problem been......overfilled oil- oil got airated and deprived lifter for a short time (may got a little air in there)-than oil level went back down to normal level and lifter unstuck? no idea if this is even possible.....