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yeah again i dont understand...... the reason my clutch went last time....was that it was improperly adjusted so i replaced the clutch and had at least 5 other people with Subarus make sure the clutch felt alright....we adjusted it perfect (free play measurement) and havent touched it since....so the clutch was adjusted right.....the thing i keep thinking is that the oil from the seperator plate is getting on the clutch (yes i know it would have to get around the flywheel).......that is a good idea nipper...chances are the cable is original.......

thats a good idea.....i tried......not quite enough room....

right on..... EJ22.....

what exactly causes the clutch to explode?.......the one thing i know i forgot to do when i replaced the clutch 10k ago was the seperator plate which i will def. be doing now.......yeah i threw it in neutral and came to a stop, pressed in the clutch, put it in gear and very slowly eased the clutch out just like normal and BANG......

the only tranny issue i recently had was that it started popping out of 4th but if i held it there it would be fine.....it shifted smooth into every gear..... there is def. resistance on the clutch fork......its not the bad to drop the tranny...tomarrow is supposed to be a nice day here....i may leave school early and come home and get started tearing into it......keep throwing suggestions out there it is very helpful since ive never had to deal with this particular problem before.....you know i was thinking this whole thing is pretty ironic.....i had 2 vehicles until yesterday when i sold my saturn.....and now boom down goes Suby.....

everything was SACHS......

nipper....just checked the drive axles and none are broken and all are in proper placement..... the car is a 96 legacy ej22 and it just turned to 189,000...i did the clutch,pressure plate, release bearing (with new clips), pilot bearing, and flywheel at 179,500.... when i did it i torqued everything to spec. but i was thinking if it was technician (my) error than im sure i would have noticed something sooner.....it has felt fine until maybe 2 days ago......i will go try to start the car in gear and see what happens.....as always thanks for your help..........alright just went outside car starts in gear.......i can start it in gear and once its started i can let my foot off the clutch with it still in gear and nothing happens car doesnt stall or anything.......

ok i was on my way home from Wendys today and i stopped at a stop sign went to let the clutch out and press on the gas and i got this awful BANG and now my suby wont move in any gear...over the past few days it seemed that the clutch was kind of grabbing.....now my suby wont move in any gear.....shift linkage is ok and car starts and idle fine....than as soon as i push in the clutch i get this like rubbing sound........i did the clutch like 10,000 miles ago and its been fine until a few days ago......any help would be appreciated.....did my pressure plate snap??....

great! thanks for the info grossgary!

thanks a bunch guys.....i just started thinking when i was reading the article because they stress so much that if one of the cams snaps out of place internal damage will occur.........

I was just reading the article on endwrench about the timing belt change on the DOHC ej25 i noticed the special tools they use to hold the cams in place......my question is.....Is there any other safe way to change the timing belt without these tools?......thanks for your time and knowledge.......

yeah thanks for the info....sure thing ill remember.....

yeah in my 96 legacy i found 3 little bags of weed get this.....1 under the shifter boot, 1 under the passangers seat stuffed up in the springs for the seat, and 1 under the back seat on top of the fuel pump access cover......well... i did buy the car because the kid was going to prison....

swiss cheesed? what do you just cut holes in your intake tube?

5 spd forester! Nice!

ok so i got another code today a P0139 (O2 sensor signal slow bank 1 sensor 2)......my question is.....what is the likelyhood that the sensor is bad.....the first code i got was a P0136 (02 sensor circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor2) and now P0139 (02 sensor signal slow bank 1 sensor 2 )....from what you guys have seen is the most likely cause a faulty sensor?.....i just want to double check before i go spend the $130 at Subaru for one......thanks again for all your replies....

thanks porc.... over the next few days i will do some more searching and if i dont find anything better i may order it....i did have another place a while ago quote me a price of $300 for a custom built 180 amp unit. i appreciate your help.....

yeah i know .....one guy told me to get a smaller pulley for the alt. than he took a look at mine and since it was already pretty small that went out the window......thanks 4WDfrenzy that is a good idea i will take a look now but i was kind of also looking for someone that would give a warranty for there work....prob. asking to much.....thanks for the help fellas.....

thanks for your replies....i know it would probubly have to be custom built but i cant really find any sources for that either.... like you suggested porc. i was also looking at doubling up but i kind of need my AC so it looks like that is out.....i have seen some 180 amp units before and also some even as high as 300 amps both custom of course.....but im on my 3rd alt. and i just increased the size of my stereo system and am thinking about going further but i think the first step is a HO alternator......i already have 2 amplifiers (2200 watts) running off the stock unit......not a good scenario.....any other ideas please feel free to shout um out.....

yeah cant hurt anything if it acts up just throw the old one back in....my suby has 190,000 on the original front 02 sensor......im intrested to see the results....

does anyone know where i could get a maybe 180-220 amp high output alternator for a 1996 subaru legacy 2.2......thanks for all your replys, i have done some extensive searching and i havent really found anything......

would absolutely love to ......but cant get the time off.....id snatch it up if i could.....

if the engine is in the car i thought the cams could only be removed if the cylinder head was removed first....at least on the 2.2......

I wouldnt be concerned........obviously if it pops back up i would take it to autozone and have the code pulled......