EVOthis

Nice!......was the SUS offered in a manual trans?

well i vaugely remember seeing a few subys already torn down at a place called Shortys you pull it in king of prussia...thats not to far from me so tomarrow i will pull the tensioner off my motor (just to bring with me to make absoulte sure)....and head up there....if i dont end up finding anything i will def ask around the board......davebugs- thanks for the offer if i dont find anything i will hit you up......

thanks alot subaru 360......i called up my local subaru dealer and they wanted $100 bucks for a new one......may take a little while but im gonna hit up the JY tomarrow and hopefully find a suby with all the timing componants already removed....i just cant justify $100 for that part.....though i guess it is pretty crucial.....

thats good to know i was skeptical about putting a larger bolt in because i dont really know what kind of passages are in there that i could potentially "dig" into.......do i need to drain the oil or coolant or anything to take the bracket off?...or do i need to remove anything else that i havent yet? so far i have removed the tensioner (obviously), timing belt, i put the cam sprockets back on though.......thanks for your help fellas

yeah your right i just took a closer look at the article...thanks aircraftengineer....the real question is than.....do the bolts that hold the tensioner screw into the block or that bracket?

i did see the sensor you were talking about.....i have no idea what it is....it could be the ECT but why on earth would they run manifold vacuum to that..........again im surprised no one else has chimed in......i cant even find that sensor in the haynes manual i have.......

wow......never seen one of these before....

i dont understand the tensioner just screws right into the block right?.....i dont mean to sound rude but how would that bracket help me........

alright got to work on the cam seals again today....i got the seals in (easier than i thought with a little bit of oil) and the sprokets on and everything is torqued to spec...the tensioner is compressed and i just started putting it in when i got no threads whatsoever on one to the bolt holes.......the other one went in great (good grip)....im trying to avoid helle coiling it.....one of the master techs told me that i could just get a size or two bigger bolt and put that in there( he said i may have to drill out the one bolt hole on the tensioner a tiny bit but thats about it) he said it would work great.......so with his help im going to go down that road tomarrow........anyone ever run into this problem before? 96' legacy ej22........

im suprised no one else has chimed in, there has got to be someone out there that has had this problem...nonetheless.....i will take a look today and see what other sensor is in that area besides the ECT.......sorry i cant be of more help.......

ok ok are you refering to the sensor under the intake manifold runners?.....

if you are refering to the one mounted right below the MAP sensor and a little to the right(on the shock tower) i think its called the pressure exchange solenoid......i asked a question a while ago about it.....the best answer i got was that the function of this "solenoid" was that it switched between atmospheric and manifold pressure for some reason or another......im sure theres threads out there about it.... i havent had a chance to look it up though.....

+1^

that doesnt really make any sense though......if it were wheel bearings chances are he would have play or the noise would increase with vehicle speed......and at 60 mph. on RT 1 they should be humming like no other.......kind of like the sound of an aggressive snow tire on asphalt.....are you sure that its coming from one of the wheel well areas and not driveaxles/trans/driveshaft.......if you say the brakes are good.....the only other thing i can think of at the moment is parts of the suspension (upper strut mount bearing maybe).......

glad it was something relatively easy......(def. beats a busted timing belt)......is it the original fuel pump? if so and you had this one intermittent problem.....me personally i would replace it....(i would hate for that thing to die again in the middle of rush hour or something)......i think that is a pretty decent price for a new FP....the places i get my parts from i couldnt find one for less than $120.....

i mean jack the car up so the wheel is hanging freely (like on a lift)....you can do it one side at a time if you like if you dont have jackstands and only have a jack.....stupid question but did you check your brakes?...... also when does the noise occur....at any speed?...when turning only?.....brakes on or off when noise occurs?.......again just double checking..are you sure its a grinding noise?.......(just tryin to get as much info as i can so i dont give you wrong theories or advice).....

when you have the front wheels back on and secure.....grab the wheel (with the car off the ground obviously) at 3 and 9 o clock and give it a little wiggle side to side...if you have excessive play than chances are you need tie rods .....to check the ball joints you grab the tire at 12 and 6 and give her another shake again with excessive play it may mean you need ball joints.....now if you have play in both directions chances are it is wheel bearings.....its not all that likely that both the tierods and balljoints will go bad at the same time....but it is possible..... this check has always proved reliable for me.....

yeah i checked them all out....the only idler that is kind of iffy is the one that is by the passangers side head at the lowest point...its a tad noisy...none of them are leaking or anything though......it kind of sounds stupid but i may just to the the junkyard and pull it (its amazing almost every suby at my local JY already have the timing blets off for some reason or another)..i will prob. give subaru a c all but I doubt that they would just sell that one idler.....

the fuel pump relay is under the dash to the left of the steering column....the relays are located right above the little fuse box which is there......ive tried checking the relays up there by feel but it didnt work to well for me so i just removed a few screws and lowered the fuse block a little bit.......i could be mistaken but i believe that the fuel pump relay is round while the main relay is square.......(the main relay and fuel pump relay are right next to each other).....

obviously check for fuel, spark and air(not likely but ive seen it happen).......if you want to see if your fuel pump is turning on you can usually hear it (or at least i can hear mine)as soon as you turn the key on for a couple of seconds...or you get an assistant to sit in the car and turn the key while you listen back by the filler neck......

ive been waiting for a question like this to surface (is there any way to trick the ECU into thinking the EGR is still there?)...im not that smart...but im very intrested to hear the replies.....

at least it was a noticeable color difference.......that should give you some peace of mind that at least you did something for the trans by changing it.....

yeah it felt kind of weird removing the cam caps and everything....ive never gone further than the timing belt on anything........but yeah so far so good......

alrighty....i got it all apart today...to get the cam sprokets off i used a huge prybar and just rammed it in one of the sprokets and i used a gear wrench to get the bolt out......i marked the timing belt in relation to the cam sprokets (used white out)....i got the cam seals out (harder than i thought)i think it was because they were dry rotted.....i also got bothe cam caps off and replaced the orings and put those back on.....so it looks like monday will be my next free day to work on it so in all luck i can get it back together correctly and it will run......if anyone has any other tips they can offer that would be most appreciated.......thanks again for all your inputs and advice.....

....its the exact same symptoms i had......do you notice anything wrong with the trans.....does it go smooth into every gear?..is it popping out?...etc...... if you dont have a haynes manual for your car may i recommend getting one......it is extremely helpful.....read through it and you will find diagrams of the shift linkage.....those little springs are exposed to the elements so they do corrode and rust and they do break....and when they do you will feel your shifter have some excessive play.......if you are able to take a look under the vehicle (as keltik said check the mounts and check to see if that little spring is there (it connects the shift rod and the stay rod).....