EVOthis

Ok what ive got here is a 96 legacy ej22 with a 5 spd.....doing the clutch so the trans is out.......have had very loose shifter for a while.....ruled out bushings they all seem good anyway.......ok.....the question is there is a little spring that connects the stay rod to the shift rod......i am in need of this spring and also the part on the stay rod were the spring attaches (its almost a large washer with an extra eyelet for the end of the spring)....i have included some pics. of what im talking about.....any help at all would be appreciated.....and if someone has P/N that would be fantastic......thanks for your help...... the first pic...... is the washer on the end of the stay rod....i think a while ago when someone had the trans out before me they lost the origonal washer with the eyelet for the spring..... the second pic......is the place on the shift rod were the other end of the spring is supposed to attach.......

yeah i see them all the time.......theres one i was just looking at it was like a 99 outback or something they guy wanted $1000........obviously with leaking head gaskets.....

i thought i read somewhere that it was resolved in 02-03.....i could be mistaken.....someone correct me if im wrong....

i have waited for my gas light to come on a few times....i kind of like it because it gives you a good idea of exactly how many miles per tank of gas you can squeeze out.......though the fuel does cool the fuel pump......prob. not a good idea to let it get that low.....

the new inner tie rod end i bought the joint already came greased....... when i opened the kit from harbor freight i just thought to myself there may be one size that i may use......i think there was like a 17mm in there.....but no i got the extras from a guy i go to school with......i think you can buy the different sizes of crowsfeet from like MAC or SnapOn........

get a set of noid lights they plug right into the elec. connector to the injector......they are pretty cheap, i picked up a set a while ago for about $12.......the directions usually come with the set.......the noid lights just make sure the elec. part of the injector is being told from the computer to pulse..... they also have specific tools the test the injector itself but you say you are getting fuel so you shouldnt need that........

man if its a success....please take some pics...... .....also maybe you could awnser a question i have had for a while....i took a trip out to washington state a while back and i saw a bunch of cars with these black brackets on the front of them that looked like snow plow brackets....they extended across the whole front of the car.....but i saw them on like saturns and everything.......any idea what these black things are for?.......

that i will say is pretty cool.....

the only semi-tricky part for me was unplugging the electrical connector for it.......

also make sure the electrical connectors for the injectors are plugged into the correct injector.....i chased a misfire for months and it turned out that the injector connectors for cylinders 2 and 4 were swapped.......just my experience....something simple to check.....

you could always put some seriously heavy tint on the sunroof.....

thanks fellas......yeah im gonna def. double check both fits...

thanks nipper.....i went to get a price on the clutch and everything from Subaru and all together the pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing were $350......than i saw an exedy kit with the pilot bearing, alignment tool, clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing for $230......have you ever had any experience with Exedy?....everyone i talk to says they are wonderful........thanks again for all your help......

in the chiltons manual....all it says to do is lube up the new pilot bearing and drive it into the flywheel with soft faced hammer......again the thing i cant understand was...why was the clutch perfect for almost 10,000 miles than it happened.......i will try that though i remember i fitted it in the flywheel before i drove it in last time but i didnt put on the end of the input shaft.....

i did that i remember i did....the thing was that the pilot bearing just fell out when i took the pressure plate off...

yeah i was talking to a few other guys and they also said it sounded like a manu. defect......when i put that clutch in i thought "oh SACHS ive heard of them"....but i guess i will be going with OEM now.....the thing is all i need is the clutch disc.......i just put the pressure plate in and it is still fine also brand new pilot bearing, release bearing (and clips), and flywheel......i really dont want to have to put more money into this car than i have too.......i did see the OE discs for like 80$ on 1stsubaruparts.com but will that match up with my current Pressure plate?.........

dang...whats the name of the Subaru Parts Site online?........i thought i remembered......

thanks nipper......the weird thing i found out when i got the P. Plate off was the pilot bearing just feel out.....any recommendations on brands of clutch?.....i dont think i will go with another Sachs.....

the two i were going to mention was HG's and TB so you got those......obvious oil leaks is all i have to add........looks like a deal how much is he askin?

ok finally got the pressure plate off....not as bad as i thought.....take a look.......i am assuming this is why my suby was going anywhere.......i just dont understand what could have made this happen.....everything was lined up perfectly....i will note that when i unbolted the pressure plate the pilot bearing fell right out.....

Nice!....sounds like a fantastic deal!.....

ok i got the trans out today......all i can say is that the clips on the release bearing seem to be intact.....ill hopefully get the clutch off tomarrow and let you guys know what i find.....oh also the input shaft was ok......

i know this is a subaru forum but.....i was at corvettes at carlisle last year and they had this guy hawking a do it yourself cruise control kit for $175.....he had it on a car there so i guess it worked.....i forget what his business was called.....but that kind of got me thinking.....it was pretty cheap.....good luck with whatever you decide to do......

thats exactly it crazyhorse the pedal still feels right but nothing engages or disengages when i press and release it.........

thats a good suggestion.......the thing is i check under my hood about 3 times a week at everything.....im currently in school to become a mechanic....so whenever i have the time at school or at work when im done i make a good check over of pretty much everything under the hood.......well i know it isnt the main seal.....it was pretty dry around the rear main when i did the clutch last time.......hopefully your right nipper and i will just have to replace the clutch and pressure plate....and the cable......i really dont want to put a tranny in this thing, even if it is a junkyard one for $150.....