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yeah i started to look there and i remember that it is not the origonal hood.....its off of like a 98 GT or something....i did order a new gasket for the IAC and am going to look for a new hose (one of them seemed brittle and showed small signs of cracking).....if a vacuum leak is present is there a chance it could give me problems throughout my RPM range?....im also going to do a vacuum test when i get the chance...i did one a while ago before i messed with this problem and everything seemed normal except for maybe a variation of not even 1 hg. up and down....the needle was pretty much steady at about 18 at idle......again i do appreciate your help porc.......

thanks for the tip.......

well if you look at it like i do the PCV is downstream of the IAC.....im going to do a vacuum test tomarrow and i ordered a new IAC valve gasket...hopefully that will get my idle back to normal like it prob. was.......i would still appreciate any suggestions anyone has........

yeah i drove it home like that today and everystop sign or stoplight the idle stayed right there......do you have any idea how to hook up a DVOM to read the RPM's because i have the meter with the capability to do it i just dont know where to hook it up.......

thats ok...i cant seem to find anything in my cilton book....:-\.......

for me i just undid the pinch bolt for the ball joint and took a pry bar and pryed down on the lower control arm and it came right out.....took a little finessing because of the sway bar endlink still attached....but it was pretty easy.....

ok...i replaced the IAC today ( didnt use a new gasket) as soon as i started it up the idle went to like 2500 and didnt move also got a CEL code 505.....so obviously the other IAC didnt work.....it seemed pretty gunky in the vacuum lines around the IAC so i cleaned them out and put the old IAC back on.....it seems to idle a little higher.....i have a photo here and was wondering if anyone can tell me exactly what is a normal idle on a 1996 subaru legacy L 2.2....Also i have a digital volt ohm meter with a Tach. function.....does anyone know how to hook that up so i can properly read the engine RPM.....

1) to find out if the engines are the same open the hood and look at the metal plate on the drivers side strut tower there should be an engine code there....chances are they are the same......

not to sure man...havent had to deal with that yet.....im sure others will chime in......

check down at the bottom of this post.....there is a list of related posts....im pretty sure i read something about this not to long ago.....

since there is only 3 little dashes up to 1000rpm mine is just below the second dash im going to say like 550 RPM.....also when i shift my tach doesnt drop like it is supposed to.....ex:PROBLEM: say i shift into 4th gear at 4000RPM...my tach drops down about 700 RPM to 3300RPM NORMAL: say i shift into 4th gear at 4000RPM...my tach drops to about maybe 2200RPM. ....and i can tell that the engine is doing what the tach tells it.....becase if it goes back to normal you can feel the RPM difference....

personally i just used like a tube of RTV to seal the timing cover.....doesnt look to good but it works.....

you could check out concordville subaru and rafferty subaru......

ok i just sprayed about half a can of seafoam and half a can of TB cleaner into the intake of the IAC......the car stumbled a little bit...but it didnt seem to fix my idle........any other thoughts......i have a pretty low idle.......All vacuum lines are in good condition and hooked up fully and properly....non EGR car.....

i think i had my shroud caught on the lever to adjust the height of the steering wheel......you might have to give it a good hit or wiggle i think there are clips that attach the upper and lower shrouds.......

useful tip...i didnt know RTV could take out the 02 sensor......

just did mine on my 2.2....nope no RTV

yeah i read it.....it seems like it is saying spray it directly into the top of the throttle body??? everyone i have talked to said to spray it directly in the intake hose for the IAC.....

ok...i just got done giving it a little cleaning......i undid the MAF and moved the air intake (didnt take it off) started up the car and sprayed a little seafoam in there (not much at all) than i sprayed some TB cleaner ( again not to much at all).....the whole time while keeping my finger on the throttle.....it didnt seem to do anything......maybe ill try a little later or tomarrow and have better luck.......

is it automatic or manual?....either way you can check for torque bind......take the car to a parking lot and make a few very sharp circles/turns and see if you get a noise or vibration.....im just saying this because i have a 96' legacy with a 2.2 than just turned over to 188,000 and im starting to get some signs of a worn out viscous coupler.....

lookin good for 166k!

thanks nipper....ive had the question for a while....guess i forgot to ask it....

I saw a article a while ago in a Suby magazine.....this guy took his like 93' impreza wagon ej18 almost bone stock and threw a turbo on it and a WRX intercooler..........just an idea....if you dont want a turbo....i would recommened a 2.2.....a little bit more power and they are very reliable......

i thought all the H6's were chain driven.....i could be wrong..... is the svx engine belt driven? that is great that you got it fixed though......i dont think thats really to bad of a price I work at Sunoco and we charge $75/hr......

i think the best bang of the buck are Kumho's I have them wrapped around 17's on my legacy.....however kumho's are horriable for traction in wet weather( my experience). So i have bridgestone blizzaks for the winter on my steelies....i find it really helpful to read like consumer reports and such.....got to Tirerack.com they have an excellant selection and not bad prices......