EVOthis

i got it at NAPA im on my 3rd one also......since i bought the car at 173k im now at 192k.....i would love to hear it though......

its a brand new alternator.....i just put it on a few months ago....though i do have a massive 14 speaker sound system running off of it.... i will run another ground tommarow i have been meaning to enhance it anyway.....thanks nipper.....

Nice!

ok now this is kind of weird......i drove all day today prob in excess of 120 miles and it didnt happen once........ill wait a few more days before i do anything.......hopefully it was just one of those old car "glitches".....

thanks for your ideas fellas......yeah before i start tearing into the dash i would like to get the simple possibilites out of the way.......keltik- only the idiot lights on the instrument cluster and the gauge needles dim/flick....the radio/climate control and everything is fine.......i think i will go ahead and replace those bulbs today and see were that leaves me....... OB99W-could i find the correct bulb numbers in a haynes manual?

alrighty...got a 96' legacy L sedan 2.2 with a 5 spd manual.......i started having this problem a while ago but it suddenly got worse today.......first let me say that my entire combo swith is working fine.....(high beams/low beams/parking lights/interior light dimmer/and right and left turn signal) however when ever i put on ONLY the right turn signal the first 2 blinks i can barely notice the indicator on the instrument cluster and in sync with the turn signal the speedo needle flicks and the coolant needle flics and the ABS light dims (another problem i will hopefully eventually fix) after the first two clicks it goes away and is completely fine.......this doesnt happen at all with the left turn signal......and as i said all other controls on the combo switch works well....i went around the outside of the car when the problem occurs and the lights are alittle dim BUT than after that 2 or 3 clicks they get bright again and the idicator comes back on on the instrument cluster and the needle flicking goes away......the hazard light switch works fine...... the only thing i can think of is that somehow the wire for the right turn signal to the combo switch has a loose connection or is shorted to the power for the instrument cluster...... i also tried it with the car off with the key in the on position and i threw on the right turn signal and all the service lights on the dash dimmed/got bright/dimmed/got bright.....than it went away......so this is why im thinking like a short to power........ any help at all would be appreciated.....im going to try and dig into this tomarrow...im just hoping i can pull the instrument cluster with out having to take off the steering wheel or disable the airbag system obviously i will disconnect the battery thought...douh again if anyone has anything that can help...thank you in advance i tried kind of hitting various places around the switch and the cluster and i have gone over numerous bumps and potholes and nothing happens with the turn signal or anything so i dont really think it is a loose connection..... is it possible that the connection is just a little dirty or not plugged in all the way......

according to subarupartsforyou.com the part numbers are different 2000 Outback 34140AC000 Inner Tie Rod End 1993 Legacy 34140AA030 Inner Tie Rod End

lets see on the door jam on the id plate it says......08/95 mine is just a legacy L though.....i would find it hard to believe they are different.....

skibumm....thats really something...i will def. give Wurths clearcoat a try when mine turn like that.....ill bet you notice a huge difference when driving at night also right?.....by the way were did you get that stuff?

my 5 spd manual 96 legacy started torque binding a few thousand miles ago......it did exactly what you are descirbing.....mine only did it after the car was warmed up and i guess the VC just stopped shearing the fluid and BAM torque bind.....i ended up replacing my trans with a good used unit because of other problems...but after i got my car back on the road i pulled the VC out of the old trans and it is much easier than you would think to get it out......i put a thread out there a while ago about my TB problem and i think WAwalker did i nice spread going step by step how to replace it.....you can even do it with the trans in the car........oh, mine is a one piece unit.....just pull it out and plop a new or used good one back in....... but yes as sea#3 said check your air psi. first...... ah here is the link...... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83952 from what i have read on here people have more success on the automatics by changing the fluid than on the manuals.....i changed my trans gear oil regularly sense i got the car but i think it was too late.....with 190,000 miles and 5 or 6 different owners im pretty sure my unit was just worn out

HG issue?....i would do a leakdown test....

yeah cant substitute AWD for FWD.......

thanks soobyfan i was trying to remember the tooth count when i made my post but couldnt.....

also.....you can always count teeth to make sure your dead on.......

is there any play/looseness in the shifter itself......there a few possibilites...... 1)there is a little spring down there that connects the shift rod to the stay rod that may have broken in 2 and is still hanging on 2)not that it should cause a rattle but you may just need shifter bushings 3)if you have time i would get under there and check that all bolts/connections/motor and trans mounts are secure and not broken........ 4)also it could be something internal....but lets not jump to conclusions before you take a poke around.......

the only one i can answer is #4......i went through the car wash the other day....got out of the car wash and turned on my stereo system and boom.....so i popped the trunk and i had water all over my amplifers....so im going to say its prob. just wear.......my car is a 96' legacy with 192,000....

Suzam....yes the junkyard i usually go to is called Mason Dixon......all you do is get on route 1 and follow it all the way south....the junkyard is basically on the border between maryland and Pennsylvania.....if you know were the concord mall is...from the concord mall to mason dixon it may take you 40-50 min. the other junkyard i recently found is located on gum tree road in chocranville....its called continental auto supply....ITS AMAZING.....its an import junkyard.....only like hondas, saabs, nissans, and subarus......they have a pretty good selection of first and second gen. legacys and imprezas......even some old XT6's..... if i were you i would head down to mason dixon and grab 1 if not 2 (just in case) Mason dixon is much larger than continental and seems to be more organized also.....

i ran into a problem with that tensioner pulley also on my 96 ej22 and it turns out someone didnt loosen the locknut before they moved the adjusting nut which broke the little plastic piece behind the locknut...so the pulley was spinning on the metal tensioner bracket making a god awful noise.....i went to the junkyard and picked up 2 of them....easy enough to get off and only $5.00 for both of them.....

prob. pointing out the obvious but....make sure the injector connectors are in the correct injector.....i had the cyl 2 and cyl 4 injector connectors swapped and it drove me up the wall trying to find my missfire....i guess you overlook the simple things when something so major is happening to your engine....:-\....not sure how it is on a 97' 2.2 but on my 96 2.2 white connectors in front grey connectors in rear.....just a simple check.....

right.....i wonder what he did to make it work in a LHD car?...relocate the turbo maybe....

also remember when you get the car down and drive it the piston will push back out of the caliper when you brake to seat the pads...it sometimes looks like alot of room in there......

alright well it looks like im not going to buy an amp after all.....tryin to save some money right now..........thank you cougar for you knowledge though.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Twin-Turbo-sedan_W0QQitemZ150239108211QQcmdZViewItem only prob. i see is that its automatic.......

alrighty.....finally got new speakers in my subi......i would like to install a coaxial speaker amplifier....ive picked out the amp... i just a few simple questions about the wiring....... things i understand 1) RCA cables go from back of head unit to amp 2)i have a distribution block for my other amps so i have the power wire 3)i have a good ground 4) going to jump REM wire from other amps Things i dont understand 1) when im running the wires from the speakers to the amp.....CAN I GO TO THE BACK OF THE HEAD UNIT AND JUST SPLICE INTO THE SPEAKER WIRES AND RUN THE SPLICED WIRES TO THE AMP? I appreciate your time and help here.....

one test i have always felt is reliable to check the MAF is....with the engine running take the butt end of a screwdriver or use your fingers and tap on the MAF....if the engine stumbles or stalls....well than you have a bad MAF sensor......