Yo'J

Do you have the correct pulley on the alt? I'm just following your progress.... Do you have any corrosion on or around your fusible links and are your grounds not good or are they GREAT? I'm a sucker for die-electric grease.

I'd stick my head up there and look for leaks while running, it might show itself. You say back of the car? Do they salt the roads there? Germany, MI. Wa. Il. Ky? Frankforts everywhere!

Or if "someone else" put a trailer hitch on it it could be rubbing through and needing a fix. Better a warning light now than blown fuses when it rains! Mine was a disaster till I found it, holes in like five spots! I hate uhaul.

Aw, heck, don't give up now! Its 26yrs old! I got an 82 that had way more problems than yours so far and after fixing them all up one by one as they show up, I'd just about drive it to florida now. I might be worried and check everything twice, but it would make it. These things do need work being old and all, but they last forever. They arent like an audi with dual fuel pumps pushing $300 each and bushings from Germany, that last 4 yrs off the showroom floor before needing major work. (its what the circles are for, one for every year it runs:lol:) If you can fix the hose and the thermostat, you're probably capable to fix it till your 80, for cheap. Heck a jy trans is like $200. And your already modding it!

I've got a surge tank under my rig and I was thinking of building a skid plate for the whole area for protection. Boy I'd rather have it outside than smell gas, the fi hoses arent smell proof.

But if you want to lift it and have the least problems, do a full body lift, as technically, everything stays the same just dropped down a bit further. No shortcuts there though. I dd my ea81 wagon w/ 2" lift and 235 70 r14s, it just needs regular work like they all do and its easier to change the oil now.

You sound like you are on your way mister and congrats! Patience is a hard thing to learn, following instructions, step by step and keeping all you have learned in mind at the same time while keeping focused on task. Most of us have been there at some point in our lives, sometimes every day. Dont beat yourself up, you have to start somewhere. (Its what I tell every apprentice, I work wood) With old half beaten subies, you will most likely be everywhere on the car and it will be half restored by the time your done and it will be a great runner. I might not know jack about working on cars myself really, but, the USMB gave me the tools and the confidence to try. Patience and focus got the job done. Subaru did a great job engineering a very easy car to work on.

A very small write up on axle part swaps would be so amazing to see, something you could take to the jy with you and find the right thing for your project, whatever it is. I hear about quite a few combinations mentioned here, but I havent seen a sticky! Love watching the progress!

Step rails? -Edit- Ohh side pipes!

Wow! 1988 had 12 brats made and 89 had one! Thats a rare score there! My 87 is one of 1274, less than the first year they came out.

Well it looks like my high idle issue might have to be resolved another day as I just noticed some gurgling coming from my coolant reservoir and then a strong burnt exhaust smell from inside it. I was wondering if its slight overheating was from the coolant sensors but it looks like its not and its all new now. That must be the woosh that keeps getting worse going through my heater lines. No its not burping. I know, I took a chance on a donor car that had a bad trans and didn't drive. It blew a little white smoke when I turned it over too. I still have to pass emissions with this thing here so I still would like to figure this out in the mean time, but I'm gonna get some head gaskets someday when I can afford it and I get my driveway back from the city as they are about to tear up my street for a leaky main. I wont have space to fix it or my rear wheel bearings. Can I just replace the gaskets or do I have to do more? I just resealed this thing and haven't driven it 1000mi yet. This brat has just been a project from hell.

&%$%^#$%$#DANGIT!!! I'm out due to ej HG failure. I'm not smoking my motor in the memorial day pass traffic.

The best solution to a carb problem:grin:FI!

I got a 2" lift and had a heck of a time fitting the rear struts on. For a 3" or 4" you just use a longer strut, but there really isn't one just two inches longer. I made my own mounts higher up in the rear well and fit ea82 rear struts in there. Not so Ideal for an off road rig as its a bit too stiff. I would go three inches at least, next time and for the rake, probably a 4/3 lift. It would look better.

bump

Old U-districtarian, in Maple Leaf, Seattle.

Hmm, Twitch, I dunno, but, its why I asked. I hear the lego manuals have some fair probs, maybe mostly in the newer models, post 97', the TC or VC or whatever it is, is weak, like in the autos, its why you don't see used ones out there too often. They are hard to source in good shape and people snatch em up. I was just talking about transmissions in bullet no1. anyhow. Maybe I've just had bad luck with the 4spd trans as well as the price of mounts being the same as the price of a low mile 5spd. I don't hear about good long lasting auto transmissions in very many makes these days in general. But I'm glad to hear there are some good AWD manual ones out there! Maybe I was getting disillusioned with the amount of work I hear on them and trouble finding them. I still want one for my brat but thats another story for another day. Besides just trying to clarify the difference between the stock carter weber and redline weber carb, which has confused some in the past, who else makes the 32/36 dgv? Redline bought the weber end and holley has a knock off. You cant buy from them directly unless you have an account anyhow. Is there another I'm not aware of? Anyway, Cheers!

This confuses me.

That is a good photo there McBrat.

Looks like everyone here says the same thing sort of consistently. Any GL leone or loyale from 82 to 93 for under $200 with a grand worth of parts or a few junkers, will run you the next decade in all driving conditions if you're a conscious driver and can mod it yourself. And if you want power, put a bigger engine in the lighter car. Sounds about right to me. Everyone hates the ea82 motor but they do go to 300k with good oil, regular maintenance and love (if weberized or FI). Seems just about all mods cost a grand in the city, doing it yourself, if just to pay for parking for your junkers. The important ones seem to be; 1)5sp d/r trans. the most trouble free one. In the early gls they die about 200k and everything else seems to die about 150k (am i wrong here?) 2)redline weber carb if your base model is carbed. 3) lift for off road use 4)better radio, tires, and simple amenities like cup holders Not to bash the legacy models but they seem to go to 150k and get transmission probs unless babied.

I'm understanding there is an issue here with the ej swapped cars idling high. I'm on my first swap and I hope not my last. I figured I should start my own thread. So who has had the same problem and what did you do? Me? I got a 90'auto sedan ej into 87 brat. Drives very nice. Needs a suspension upgrade but time will come. So following Gloyales advice on Turbone's thread I inadvertently hijacked, with the car hot and running, I tested the iac with a ground wire and found no change, voltage read 12v one side and 4v the other(not sure if thats right). I then changed out the coolant sensor, nothing. I dropped a 9/16 taiwan 3/8 socket into the iac hose from the rubber boot (no one will miss that one) to restrict the air to the aic, nothing. It still wants to overheat and is idling at 1200, 1300rpm. Now I haven't driven it far after doin all that last bit, but I have done a couple 25mile trips since the swap and just sometimes (rarely) it will drop to 1000rpm. Now my idle screw is all the way out and has been since the car was reborn and able to drive. One thing I want to do is run a direct battery ground to the dash just to make sure there isn't any odd feedback, more the merrier, right? Get the right polarity clutch switch/ neutral switch and know what I'm doing wiring it up.(clutch switch pin?) What else am I missing? Tailgate trim! Dang you guys are good!

I just got a new coolant sensor, I'm going to test my iac like described in your post, then I'm trying the restrictor. In order. Whats up with the iac tunability? It swivels like a distributor. I googled it last night but I didn't find much regarding n/a motors, just turbos. I had a dream last night that it was idleing perfectly!

Mind if I ask what size restrictor?

Just a little shop in my neck of the woods that has been around since the turn of the light bulb, well mine anyway. Bunch of old guys still there. I might have the isolator styles wrong or backwards just the type I got I guess shouldn't be using due to internal failure.

No word yet? We got our eyes peeled here. Dang I wish you luck!