Numbchux

some pics from the event: these guys were nuts. I really have to get my video pulled of my camera, I would have sworn it was an open class car watching it on the super special stage, he was showing up pastrana and block......but it's Open LIGHT, built N/A 2.5l putting out barely 200awhp. Crazy Polish drivers Here's how Friday night went for us.... dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude xIfL6d2DAF8 And this is why you do not stand on the outside of a corner when Mark is around..... my pictures: albums: http://www.worldrallysport.com/content/oji...ests-rally-2009 http://www.terrafirmaclothing.com/terrafir...bwe-day-1-pics/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/figzphoto/ http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/v/2009/OF09/ http://www.rlsmotorsports.com/Automotive/O...20_kCnGD#P-1-15 btw, that's me, and it's at about 2am in the parking lot of our hotel..... http://rally-america.com/events/2009/OFPR/gallery/

I don't have the diagrams in front of me. but I can tell you that that refers to a fuse. It'll be listed in the "power supply routing" page of the wiring diagrams, where you can trace whether it's a switched or constant source.

mounting points are identical, lengths are not. FWD front struts are a bit shorter than 4WD ones. the rear is the exact opposite, and by quite a bit, because the mounting point on the trailing arm is quite a bit lower. even though the FWD ride height is lower, the FWD rear struts are noticeably longer than the 4WD ones. that said, if you're planning on converting, get what you want to have after the conversion, which would presumably be all 4WD parts (a pair of FWD rear struts would give you about 1.5-2" of lift in the rear.....), and rock them with the FWD stuff.

I am not a carb guy. it's no mystery..... But, the wiring is a bit complex, but once it's done, it's done. no messing with a carb to get it tuned right. Whichever sounds more up your alley Carb: modifying/fabricating the intake manifold to accept a carb, sourcing/installing a distributor (not exactly common), sourcing/installing a carb of suitable size, modifying throttle cable bracketry, and tuning. FI: stripping the wiring harness, replacing the fuel pump and a little fuel line (IMHO, no need to upgrade the whole system. just the rubber lines and clamps on the high-pressure side), and turn the key. after a few minutes, the stock ECU will automatically have it tuned perfectly.

I went to advance auto parts, and bought whatever generic 10" radiator fan they had on the shelf. cost about $50. NOTE: do NOT use the included zip-tie-looking things that pull through the radiator fins to mount them. the vibration from the fan transmitted to the radiator core will cause early failure. I then went to Home Depot. and bought a couple chunks of 1"x1/8" aluminum. cut them to the height of the radiator. drilled a hole in each end, and then matching holes in the metal bracket at the top and bottom of the radiator. drilled 2 holes in the middle of them, and zip-tied the fan to the aluminum. you'll want to test fit all this off the car, to get your spacing right, but it works wonderfully. no pictures of this on a subaru, (I did it on my loyale, and the '86 GL that I did last summer), but I did it on my 4Runner this spring. same idea, but left it as a puller fan: Also, it should be noted. I drive my loyale in town, almost all the time. rarely above 45mph. but never in stopped traffic, other than the occasional stop-light wait. the controller module that I bought with the fan became immensely corroded (huh, only about 2 feet of wire to the temp sensor on the radiator, but not water-proof.....ugh), and failed. the fan didn't work for months. car never overheated. So the fan really isn't needed except on the hottest days, and under ~15mph for more than about 10 minutes. it doesn't have to be much.

"can't" isn't quite true. but it would be an enormous pain!!

meh, the tires will spin before the tranny breaks a standard EJ22 on stock-sized tires in FWD gets a little hairy, lots of wheel spin. But yea, you should be able to do it. you'll need an adapter plate, just like a 4WD. IIRC FWD clutch discs have different splines than 4WD, so you're options on a clutch will be drastically limited. but you *might* be able to get a good pressure plate for a 4WD EA82t or XT6, and put a FWD disc in there.

I found a deepwell socket that was about 2mm wider than the XT6 knuckle. and used a hydraulic press to force it into the brackets on the impreza struts. only took me about 15 minutes a side. I used the XT6 bolts though, makes camber kind of a shot in the dark.....I had planned on putting EJ knuckles on it, before some broad totalled my baby

either way. cut it off, and it'll throw a CEL code. or hook it up to the sensor on the clutch pedal, and it won't. I didn't notice a difference in how either EJ-swapped EA82 ran with or without that.

lots of new stuff (core supports, roof skin, fenders, bumper hood, a door and a bunch of glass), some bondo, paint, and lots of elbow grease...... just in time for Ojibwe Forests Rally next weekend

I sold my '88 N/A EA82 wagon with a 4" AA lift and pugs for $1600 on ebay a few years ago. That's probably your best bet if you want to actually get what it's worth.

ECU is identical. there's a pin that tells it whether it's connected to an auto or manual, the configuration of this wire effects how it reacts to neutral switch signals. which is minimal. don't worry about it, worst case scenario is pretty much just an extra check engine light code.

ah, yea, I suppose you get more movement wheelin. you might be able to use an XT bracket with the standard EA82 rod with the lift. the link worked when it was relevant. now I can't edit the original post. it's posted many many many other places.

nope, because I actually read the thread instead of just clicking the link in the first post. pitch stoppers are overrated. haven't had one in my loyale since day 1. 40k+ miles, no problems.

hehe, thanks so that is a whole EJ rear suspension setup in there, huh. F#$%in awesome!!!!

no diagrams. I just use stock FSMs. it's not very easy to describe, and an in-depth write-up would take a lot of work, and would leave little guarantee that it would function in the end. not worth it, IMHO. tom is, or works for, (I'm not sure which) http://www.allwelldrive.net

I wouldn't recognize gen 1 rear suspension if I tripped over it.....is that stock gen 1 lateral links and such? or is that a whole EJ crossmember? either way.....hot!

I've helped on 3 SVX swaps, 2 into GC imprezas and a third into a '95 legacy. radiator will need to be moved forward about 3 inches, and fans relocated to the front side. I know of one guy who moved the stock radiator forward, and made it work. most of the time, hood latch is lost and pins will be needed. Dao got a custom radiator from Griffin that was short and thick, and mounted it forward in the bumper like a FMIC, which left plenty of room for the engine AND stock latch. pretty cool: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/daoimp.htm or another guy had one that replaced the upper radiator support: Wiring is a little goofy. but not too bad. worst part is the glue that they use to seal where the wiring harness through the firewall on the SVXs. it makes separating stuff an epic PITA!

I've seen the tool at Northern tool and the like. just a little square piece with a different combination of studs sticking out of each of the sides, and a 3/8s square, so it can be used as a socket. and yea, my 200SX rear calipers have that too. +1 for bleeder screw removal.

hmmmm...maybe my estimates were a bit high. that's alright, those numbers are perfectly acceptable, and with the other mods I'm doing, the torque curve should be positively sexy Thanks! I may have decided on a shell to install it in. I was planning on buying a clean PNW coupe shell sometime next summer and painting it, but since the accident in my XT6 last week, I'm thinking it'll be cheaper to pull the frame out and fix a couple rust spots on it than get my hands on a new shell. and since I was already planning body work and paint..... not much for updates lately. except my girlfriend bought me a set of Phenolic intake manifold spacers for my birthday a few weeks ago!

couldn't tell you what brand. but they were all overdue for replacement (new belts, re-used pulleys), or the cheapest thing I could get my hands on. FYI, with a PT4WD drivetrain, an EJ22 is capable of similar mileage. I did an '86 wagon last year with a '96 2.2. it regularly got 30mpg, and not being gentle on it.

fixed. no "s" on the end actually, I forgot, the consumer site is now at: http://www.usaradiator.com/

the radiator is definitely not the weak link. a clogged Ea82 radiator will keep an EJ22 cool all year long, with only occasional fan use. IMHO, the best upgrade you can do, is an all-metal one. http://www.performanceradiator.com makes one for EA82s thats very nice. had one in my loyale for a few years. beyond that, just take care of it. if you maintain the system well, you shouldn't have any problems at all.

EJs have computer-controlled ignition. so 2 coil packs on the intake mani. no disty. 22REs definitely have a disty. yea, you might get lucky with an EA82 with that low mileage, but I highly doubt you'll get 5 years without problems. they're not exactly a bullet-proof engine yea, just swap the whole intake manifold, wiring, disty and sensors from the loyale motor onto the '87 (the manifold is slightly different between the carb and FI setups, but will bolt onto the heads just fine). also, if this is your first timing belt job, I would recommend doing it right. put the marks on both cam sprockets pointing straight up. install the driver's side belt, then turn the crank over by hand one rotation (driver's cam should be pointing down), then install passenger side. once you know what to look for, it can all be done at once, but to make sure it's done right the first time, do the whole process. also, be ABSOLUTELY sure to replace all pulleys. this is the weak link. I've been left on the side of the freeway 6 or 8 times due to EA82 idler failure. there's a company by the name of PCI (preferred components, inc.) that makes high-quality timing belt kits, including all pulleys. there are a few sources on ebay that sell these for a great price. just as good as OEM, IMHO.

well, if it has the push-pull lever next to the 5-speed shifter, than it's dual-range. a single-range one won't have that push-pull linkage, but will have a vacuum diaphragm near the bellhousing, with a cable running back to the rear of the trans. an RX FT4WD D/R will have both. and yes, any turbo trans will have 25 splines. and non-turbo EA82s and all EA81s have 23.