Numbchux

Yep, I notch out all my struts. Dremel, sawzall, even hack saw.... Those are crush washers, so they will not seal as well when re-used (that said, they usually seal enough when re-used). A neat trick I learned several years ago: hold one in a pliers, heat it with a torch until red hot and then let it cool off in the air (don't douse it). This heat cycling will return the shape to it, and it will seal much better.

Legacy and Outback show different part numbers (AC040 looks like an Outback one, AC050 is not a valid US number), but the bushings that are pressed into the crossmember are different numbers, maybe that's the only difference. -1/95, an AWD Legacy would have a 20151AC002, 2/95- it switches to a 20151AC021 All 98-02 Foresters had the 20151FA113, and I don't see the spacer like an Outback, that could be a problem

Now that we've thoroughly derailed this thread. All the GCs had 5-lug ("this era"). It's definitely larger than 114.3. One of the first times a picture of the new 4-lug WRC cars surfaced on here, someone scaled it based on the known wheel diameter, and it was very close to 140. I was sure one of the for sale listings on WRC Spares listed the bolt pattern as 4x140, but I can't find it now... WRC changes through the years, 4-lug started in 2005 (Subaru pulled out after 2008, so 4 years) http://www.subaruwrcspares.com/resources/WRC.pdf Also http://www.subaruwrcspares.com/7.html

There should be a transmission code sticker on the bellhousing near the starter. Assuming it's the original transmission, it'll be the same code that's on the plate on the driver's strut tower. Google that code, and you'll probably get your answer. Or call a Canadian dealership (US catalogs can't decode Canadian VINs) with the VIN

Only the last few years of the WRC cars have 4x140

I've seen MR2 and XT6 pumps set up on other cars (or even for rear steer on rock buggies) without limiting pressure, and even without a cooler (although it's certainly a good idea). I bet something from the Subaru parts bin would work, probably EA82 without too much difficult. No, not easy. But sounds easier than: -Tracking down a complete, working, EA81 power steering setup -Retrofitting a hydraulic rack AND retrofitting a belt-driven pump -Retrofitting an electric rack and associated parts

You could probably retrofit an XT6 or MR2 electric power steering pump to operate a more conventional hydraulic rack.

Obviously RallyX course conditions can vary a lot from location to location, but that looks way too low for the events out here. I would definitely go up in the front. I've done several rallyXs in other cars, and once life frees up enough that I can have a truck and trailer, I'll be doing it in my XT6 (closest events are 2 hours one way, most are about 4 hours). I currently have GD WRX front springs on '94 T-leg GR2s on the front with 250 lb/in 12" long ground control coils on EA82 wagon GR2s in the rear. I'm pretty happy with the way it handles (I'd like to lengthen the leading rods for more castor). And I've got a bunch of travel. Quick google search says that's a 163 lb/in spring, and they had a fair amount of preload. Pictured on 205/50r16 Hakkas on 16x6.5+48 wheels 20170102_124246 by Numbchux, on Flickr 20160330_174136 by Numbchux, on Flickr I would not go any stiffer than 200 lb/in in the front. the EJ25D is probably lighter than the ER27....the concern about coil bind will depend on the spring length, and therefore how high you have the adjusters. Post a picture of where your preload adjusters are, if they're above halfway or so, I'd grab a pair set of springs that are ~2" longer. I had ground-control sleeves on the front of my loyale, cranked as high as they would go (8" springs, IIRC), and never had them bind, but never saw RallyX use.

Your car was manufactured on 04/24/2002 OE rear shock # is 20365AE05A

OE bolt (#901130011) is MSRP of $5.25. It's not uncommon for dealerships to mark up over MSRP, but if they quoted you $15, something is wrong. And yea, most reman calipers come with a bracket. Reman brackets by themselves are usually available. Don't mess with trying to extract it. Autozone special order is FedEx overnight. So they can usually have stuff from anywhere in the country in a day or 2 (there's usually a mid-afternoon cutoff for next day).

AFAIK, the EJ252 is California emissions only. I think I've only seen one. I don't think there's any point in any of this if it's power you are after. Without the VVT, you're not going to get a noticeable change in power, and the VVT is not easy to add. IMO, just rebuild yours, or get a direct replacement, and move on.

Just to clarify, from your description, the parts that are circled in that diagram are not what you are asking about, right? the roll pin (#16) was a problem with my Brat for quite awhile. Years ago I saw a write-up on here where a guy someone used compression fitting ferrules on a bolt to tighten that up, but we couldn't find a size that fit well (either too small, or too big, so it fit tight in the outer part, but not tight to the inner shaft). I drilled it out a bit, and put an EJ-style double-rollpin in it. But I think I drilled it a hair too big, as it fell out.... Just a couple weeks ago, I tapped threads all the way through both pieces, and ran a bolt through it (I don't remember what size, and since mine has already been drilled out once, it probably won't be the ideal size for other vehicles). That seems to have worked well.

I have no experience with them, but I've noticed them listed several times. They seem terrifyingly cheap....so I assume the quality matches.

Bingo. I think the trailing arm and such could take a decent amount of extra travel, if the shock/spring combo could handle it. I don't know anything about the 4Runner shock swap, so I really can't help there. But when I was looking for something for street use, every viable option I could find had less travel than the stock ones (I ended up with Miata stuff, which had several inches less travel). I suspect the only way to really get more, is to basically go to a custom long travel setup, with about a 20" long coilover spring.

I just realized you have redrilled aluminum wheels......yikes. No, that's bad news.

You'll need Outback struts to fit larger tires. If you want to use Outback struts/springs AND blocks, you'll need subframe spacers. Something more like this kit: http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/lift-kits/0-4-lift-kit-2000-detail You'll probably want to contact Scott directly, though. As you'll probably want to mix and match block heights to compensate. Also, that kit is for a 2000-2004, and an 05-09 would be slightly different (at the very least, the rear bushing on the front control arm is different). I like Scott at SJR a lot. He's been around here for a long time. But, if he doesn't offer anything for the 05-09, talk to ADF. They don't list anything with front subframe spacers, but I've seen on their Facebook page and such that they've built a couple really big ones. http://andersondesign-fab.com/product/05-09-legacy-2-strut-spacers-w-multi-link-spacers/

Look on the tag on the strut tower, that should have the complete engine code. I'm not familiar with the "series 4" terminology. But I assume it's the VVT version of the SOHC EJ25. This would require retrofitting to the newer ECU to control that, which means you'd be doing more than a little wiring. Also, in the US anyway, most of those cars have an immobilizer, which makes that kind of project extremely difficult. I suspect a huge amount of work for very little benefit.

I sort of see where you're coming from. But... Building one car out of 5+ is not likely going to provide this. While I never had any major issues with my Loyale (EJ22, RX transmission, 5-lug, etc.), I did have a few things, and it was enough that I thought twice before taking it on a road trip. We almost always preferred to take my girlfriend's Kia (now she's my wife, and drives a Subaru) if we were leaving town.

The biggest reason to go 5-lug, is for brake and suspension upgrades for street use. The truth is, the stock 4-lug brakes (rear disc conversion) will perform just fine for typical offroad use, and the 5-lug suspension options don't offer any more travel. Also, virtually all 5x100 wheels are very high offset. Typically too much for oversized tires. If it were 5x114.3 (5x4.5), then you'd have a ton of wheel options, in any dimension you can dream up. But 5x100 is not common enough. Standard EA82 4WD struts will have more tire clearance than the tallest 5-lug front strut (Outback struts generally have room for about 29" tall tires). And for the cost of XT6 rear hubs these days, you could buy a lift, rear disc swap, and a drill press to redrill to 6-lug yourself. Even if I got the 5-lug parts for free, if I was building an offroad rig, I'd sell them and go 6-lug. Heck, for the cost of XT6 hubs, you could probably buy a set of Peugeot 15s, All that said, it's been done. It's not necessarily bad, just not usually cost effective. For most peoples' offroad Subaru use, a couple degrees of Ackermann angle, and a little more dampening, and another inch of rotor diameter, just isn't worth the cost and labor.

Strut is a sealed, pressurized, fluid-filled container. Welding produces a lot of heat....

I don't think the parts yield any change. Control arms, knuckles, wheels. Yes the rear inner trailing arm is different, but the outer is the same. Rotor offset is the same. The tire size changed, but that shouldn't make much difference. Depending on how it's measured...but it would change both numbers equally. I suspect it has to do with the suspension geometry at different ride heights. The front is a pretty typical arc, with the control arms at a decent downward angle at 4WD height, so as it lowers, the arc pushes the hub outwards. The rear trailing arm actually has the opposite geometry. Because it's an asymmetrical triangle, and the mounts are not in-line, the arc travels outwards towards the extremes, and inwards when the arm is level. And since those arms angle downwards at ride height, as the car is lowered, the hubs shift inwards.

Depending on how bad the damage is. It might react very well to some leather conditioner. The driver's seat in our 2004 VDC was in pretty nasty shape when I bought it. Dried and cracked very badly. A couple treatments with some Leather cleaner and then conditioner (I used Lexol brand), and you almost can't tell. Leather has to be cared for. It has to be conditioned, or it will dry out and become brittle. Take care of it, and it'll last.

By stub axles, I mean in the diff. AFAIK, those flanges are designed to slip over the stock stub axles, and then the porsche CVs bolt to that. Knock yourself out. But my Brat has quite a bit of rear suspension travel, with just a reclock and longer shocks. What it needs is gearing, lockers, gearing, more front travel, and gearing. If I were going to spend $1500 and a bunch of labor on EA81 IRS for offroad use. It'd be for a better diff with a locker, probably Ford 9". I'd try to leave the suspension and brakes alone.

Possible? Sure. Anything is possible. Practical? Cost effective? I doubt it. Huge amount of work and money. Still have the stock stub axles and an r160 diff. Those parts have no effect on the torsion bars. You can already run any shock you can dream of on an EA81. I have Rough Country's on my Brat (Rancho's would have cost more than the Brat....had to go cheap).

Yep, ATF stick is on a tube that stands out away from the transmission a bit. Front diff stick goes right into the side of the transmission.