Numbchux

Theoretically that's possible, but I think it'll take some creativity in finding a switch that functions that way. It would need to have one circuit closed in #1 & #2, but open in #3, and the other circuit closed in #1 and open in #2 & #3. Might be easier to use a more traditional DPDT 3-way to control an SPDT relay to reverse the polarity of the Duty C circuit.

Yep, I'm exaggerating the delay, but it's still pretty noticeable IMHO.

Yea, I didn't word that very well. I meant that the limiting factor is the length of the axle. Lengthening a control arm, or tie rod isn't difficult for a half decent fabricator, but lengthening an axle shaft..... That's why I was thinking maybe an STi axle might give you a bit extra width, but probably not much. Actually, the more I think about it, the more I think an older ('86-'95) Toyota might be a good option. Those T-100 axles make for a relatively easy long-travel setup (have to lengthen all 4 control arms and both tie rods). Total Chaos claims 12" w/ 4WD out of their kit. The sky is the limit when it comes to engine/transmission/transfer case/axle options. Also the dual a-arm design means shocks are very universal, so really high-end shocks are relatively cheap. http://www.chaosfab.com/86-95-4WD-Pickup-4Runner-T100-Long-Travel-Suspension-Kit-95200.html

The way you described it earlier in this post, AWD to "unlocked" 4WD (gauranteeing you have power to the front and rear simultaneously. But you still have open diffs at the front and rear). So in AWD mode it would wait for the front to spin a bit before sending power to the rear, in 4WD it sends it to both simultaneously.

Yea, CV axles is usually the limiting factor with long-travel independent. I was really tempted by a long-travel kit for the older Toyotas that uses off-the-shelf axles for a T100, but I think I'm moving away from my 4Runner. You might be able to find an STi axle or something that would give you an inch or so....

It's not even remotely that simple. And again, not all AWD is the same. Most Subaru 4EATs apply power almost exclusively to the front until it detects the front start to slip, and then power goes to the back, because they don't actually have a center differential. Manual transmissions and VDC cars supply power evenly to both front and rear, but have some sort of LSD to prevent too much speed differentiation. Your description of 4WD locked and unlocked describes both front and rear differentials being locked or unlocked, which is very rare on a factory vehicle, occasionally an off-road package will come with a true rear locker, not just an LSD, and even then there's usually nothing to limit slip in the front. I had our '04 Outback VDC in the deep stuff behind my garage this weekend pulling out my utility trailer which has been parked since late last summer. It did better than any EA Subaru I've ever had, the only time I had any trouble, was breaking through the bank left from the snowblower, towing the snow-laden trailer with one tire completely flat. Even then, a little gentle rocking and it had no trouble.

That exact list will probably only work on the early stuff, '90s, maybe a bit into the '00s. That said, it's almost certainly possible that an alternator could be made work (electrically) that's much newer. But the exact wire count, colors, and function may change a bit.

The AWD system with the automatic is a FWD transmission with some power sent to the rear as an afterthought. Only once the TCU detects a difference in speed between the front and rear does it send a decent amount of power to the back. By manually selecting 1st gear, it does make that program more agressive, so it's a bit less noticeable. Also, it's pretty easy to add a switch inline to the power wire to the transmission solenoid that controls the AWD and lock it down as tight as it can (well documented, you're looking for the duty C solenoid). An Outback is a MUCH heavier vehicle than an EA82, so it feels much more cumbersome, much harder to control it's momentum. I have owned many 4WD EA82s (To be fair, either D/R 4WD or FT4WD, never push button, but the 4WD functionality is the same with it locked in), and EJs and living in northern MN, I'm no stranger to snow. It is a completely different animal than the old EA82s. I almost swore off Subarus a couple years ago when I was driving a '99 Outback SUS 4EAT. I went up the driveway to my buddies shop that had not been plowed since the last storm. There's a section right by the shop that's off camber, and I slid off the driveway. I managed to get it pointed the right way, but it took me hours with a shovel, jack, and some dimensional lumber to get it back on the flat ground again. In hindsight, the AWD let me down, but mostly the Primewell tires let me down. The AWD system with a manual transmission, however, is very similar to the old 4WD. I also frequent the local ORV park up here, which used to be an iron ore pit mine, so it's mostly rock crawling, where gearing and diffs are crucial. I haven't had a conventional 4EAT up there, but every other version. Again, the EJ 5MTs don't have much of a traction disadvantage from the EA82s unless it gets really nasty, and even then typically it's the front and rear diffs that let them down, not the center, and gearing. Our '04 Outback VDC (much more like the MT AWD) does very well, need to get it lifted and skidplated to really push it.

Automatic or Manual transmission? The way the AWD system functions is very different.

This means you have bigger issues than the ECU. Even without the ECU it should crank over. First thing I would do is put a socket (22mm, IIRC) on the crank and see if you can rotate the engine by hand. Rule out seized or hydrolocked. Then check for power getting to the starter (the heavy wire to the stud on the starter should always be hot, small wire on the spade should be hot with the key in "start"). If it's getting power, it's probably the starter, if it doesn't it's electrical (security system, ignition switch, neutral switch, wiring etc.) And I would definitely agree that it needs all fluids, rear diff, transmission/front diff (separate fluids if it's an auto), and oil at the very least. My dad and I resurrected a flood car many years ago. '94 Legacy, had water partway up the doors, well over the hubs. We had a parts car, so we swapped the carpet, door cards, and seats. We stripped that stuff out, pulled the ECU and ABS unit out and apart and let them dry in the sun for a few days, changed all the fluids, repacked the wheel bearings, and drove it for another 100k miles (had about 260k on it when we parted it out, then I put the engine in a '96 Outback which got at least another 20k before it was sold). We never had mystery electrical gremlins or anything. Of course a '94 has a lot less electronics than an '05, but I'd think it'd be worth a shot.

I just did that O ring on our Outback, old one was as hard as plastic. MSRP on it from the dealer was less than $2. That and a couple worm clamps on the suction hose seem to have solved my fluid aeration problem.

I think that car should be a 2.2, not common for head gasket failure. And head gasket symptoms usually get worse with speed, and involve coolant loss. I think the easiest thing to check (although it seems fairly unlikely), is whether the fans are coming on. When it's good and hot, stop and pop the hood and see if they're both running. It doesn't take much driving at all to push enough air through the radiator, though. I had a failed fan in our Outback 3.0 for over a year and the only time it ran warm was offroading in June, slow trails with lots of trees and the A/C on.... Thermostats very rarely stick shut (I've honestly never seen it, and I've tested several), but it's cheap enough, and some fresh coolant can't hurt. I would also recommend pulling the radiator when you have the system drained, and make sure the fins are clean. The fins are spaced out more in the A/C condenser, and debris can accumulate between them blocking the airflow.

A/C tensioner/idler (aftermarket usually lists as an idler) is relatively common. If the bearing seizes it'll frequently damage some of the hardware around it. Pull the belt and check the pulley. If that bearing feels rough, replace it. If you catch it before it wrecks other stuff, you can replace just the bearing.

Incorrect. wtdash is correct that the Forester stuck with 5x100, where the Legacy/Outback line switched to 5x114.3 in 2015 They will not bolt up. Also, FYI. All Legacies have at least 17s these days, some with 18s.

It's certainly possible that it's not charging and you don't have a warning light. Get a Multi-Meter (if you don't have one, get one. If you have a Harbor Freight near you, it's about $5), and test the voltage across the battery while running. Should be ~14.5v. Or, go to almost any auto parts store, they usually have a hand-held battery/alternator tester that they can bring out to the parking lot and test it quick. Does the battery light come on when you first turn the key on? If the warning bulb burns out the alternator will not charge.

I second this post completely. They are double/inverted flares, with M10x1.0 fittings. I took this picture of the repair I made on my '97 about a year and a half ago, this is under the back seat. I replaced all the steel hard line that is exposed under the back of the car. There's a factory junction block just under here, but it's usually badly rusted, I just bypass it entirely. 2017-08-09_08-16-18 by Numbchux, on Flickr Use an inline flaring tool, like this. Makes flaring the line a breeze, especially in the car. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DO9142G?tag=amz-mkt-chr-us-20&ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-a0032-win10-other-nomod-us000-pcomp-feature-scomp-wm-4-wl-ddt0_sce0_prc0_aapi0&ref=bit_scomp_sav0 You'll need a small tubing cutter, as well. Nothing special there. Cheapest source for the NiCopp Line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788JTB45/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 On my latest project, I used stainless fittings, too..... https--,,--//www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Metric-Invert-Fitting/dp/B01KNGVPCC/ Then you'll just need a pair of unions. These are the exact ones that I used, but they're cheaper at your local auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Brass-Brake-Union-M10x1-0-Inverted/dp/B001O09HVI/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1515186248&sr=1-6&keywords=brake+line+union+metric

Lights dim with electrical load while running? Car wouldn't start after a long drive? Sounds to me like you have a charging problem, not a battery problem.

I wonder which one of my coworkers you spoke to.... Yep, factory battery was 356cca, they're finally puttying 490cca ones in them for 2018. Subaru replacement batteries come from Interstate, and are 550cca (That SOA part number you listed).

Factory recommendation is to leave the RH lower idler off, install the belt, and then install that idler. I do that, line up the marks on the top side of the belt then slip the belt between the cogged idler and water pump, then install the last idler. I've had a couple fight me, and it seemed to help not to torque down the other pullies loose until the belt is on.

There's a reason TTB is so popular with the Baja guys. The Dana 44 version has very long "arms", and is pretty beefy. I've been doing a lot of research on 4WD vans (I just bought a ford conversion van), and there's a company down in California that's getting like 15" of travel from a Dana 50 TTB (much shorter arms than the 44), under a full-size van. I'm leaning towards something like that under mine. It's pretty crucial to get the mounts set up correctly at ride height, as that's what effects all the alignment angles.

Yea, what's this on? I've often thought about it on my cars, but never followed through.

Megasquirt is powerful, but very much open-source. That brings along a lot of challenges. There are a few different injection and ignition methods, and they have different requirements for sensors. With batch fire/wasted spark, it can be done with just a fairly low-resolution crank trigger. For full sequential, you'll need much better signals. There's a guy here in MN setting up an EG33 on MS, and while the stock trigger wheels give enough resolution, the stock sensors themselves are not reliable enough, and he was getting nasty sync loss. So he made custom adapter brackets to mount aftermarket hall effect sensors in the stock positions to improve the reliability so he can run reliable sequential injection/ignition. Then come the turbos.... Run something commercially developed, and you'll have much more support, and more consistent information (Open source means you're searching the whole of the internet for build threads and write-ups, and some of it is current and most of it isn't...). You'll pay 2-6x as much, but it'll be much easier to work with.

Yep, a shift kit would firm things up and prevent slippage. Power mode changes shift points, line pressure, and AWD function.

When using EJ axles, the inner joints are more compressed than on an EJ car. Some people have reported that they bottom out. Technically using EJ knuckles shortens the tie rod assembly slightly, it's a negligible change when driving straight, but that small change relative to the ball joint really improves the ackermann angle (while turning, the inside wheel turns sharper than the outside).

Don't take anything apart, just get it in the air and get under there and see if that axle is seated in the transmission. If it's not, my preferred method is to pop the ball joint out of the control arm, and swing the whole knuckle assembly in until the joint bottoms out and you can sort of use it like a slide hammer to pop it back in.