nncoolg

I have a Megasquirt MS3X in mine, you can find all the info here :

...looking for one, thanks!

Here a set of my GEN3 TK8 heads. I have them up for sale by the way, if anyone wants them...

By the way, I reckon clear side indicators would be awesome if these go well!

I'd be in if the quality was good! Can I spread this to the facebook page?

ah, are they still available?

Its mentioned above that WRX rear lines are LONGER than STI ones, you sure that isnt the other way around? Does anyone have some specs of the stoptech lines or a catalog with measurements? Id be keen to find out...

Because our Subies are blessed with such a wide stud pattern, the hubs are quite susceptible to getting bent ever so slightly. This causes lateral run-out in the rotors which in turn will cause disc thickness variation and cause pedal pulsation. Even the way the hubs fit on the car can make a difference - cv stub not straight, centering cone out of shape, etc. The only way to fix this problem completely is to have the rotors 'matched' to the suspension by getting them turned on the car with a ProCut On-car Lathe. If the machine is setup correctly you can guarantee less than .0005" (half a thou) lateral runout on your rotors. Do a google or youtube search and you will see what I mean...

Because our Subies are blessed with such a wide stud pattern, the hubs are quite susceptible to getting bent ever so slightly. This causes lateral run-out in the rotors which in turn will cause disc thickness variation and cause pedal pulsation. Even the way the hubs fit on the car can make a difference - cv stub not straight, centering cone out of shape, etc. The only way to fix this problem completely is to have the rotors 'matched' to the suspension by getting them turned on the car with a ProCut On-car Lathe. If the machine is setup correctly you can guarantee less than .0005" (half a thou) lateral runout on your rotors. Do a google or youtube search and you will see what I mean...

Knock sensor. Bypass it with a resistor.

series 2 is blacker?

...specifically when the ECU switches the Purge Vac. Solenoid on: Has anyone done any tests?

...you certainly wouldn't want to plug the tank vapor line :

I'm keen to learn from anyone that has experience about how the purge system works...

The L series has that little white vacuum can behind the Strut tower (RH side on our RHD cars) for the HVAC, so all good if It's an L series, if it's an MY series, steal one from an L series

I'd be in for a few series 2 (1/87 on) XT turbo boots. They are straight, not offset like the RX boot. also, if anyone has a soft one of these, let me now

I like the rear strut brace, does it protrude through the wheel arches and pickup the top strut mount some how, or is it just welded to the arches?

Would still love a photo of the control unit in its home if possible...

I don't suppose anyone's got a car with the tadio pulled out they can snap a quick pic? Trying to give someone instructions to remove one for me

Hi guys, looking for the trip computer controller, its pictured as item #25 in this breakdown: Looks like its mounted on top of a plate that goes somewhere, but i dont know where to find it... Can anyone help? Photo would be even better Thanks.

you want to sell your 14point7?

Well without a timing light, you're just guessing - it could be 6' it could be 26'... And are you looking at wideband AFR's? Are you running it on Premium Gas, 95 for you guys isn't it?

Parts catalog lists 3 different optical dizzys, it may pay to look at the part number on your one... Oh, and have an open knock sensor circuit wont prevent the engine from running, it will just throw a CEL Actually, is your CEL on? or are you reading the code from memory? optical dizzys.pdf

I'm just wondering if the dizzy matches the turbo ECU's, there was a rumour that there are two different optical dizzys, but that could be one of those forum myths like 'flipping the rear top shock mount on the XT' ...Perhaps it could be a CAS sync issue. Are you the person I sent some wiring diagrams to a while ago? to what extent did you play with the wiring? So I'm clear, when you turn the key, the fuel pump primes? with all the ECU's? Then only runs again with the NA ECU's when cranking? What happens if you hotwire the fuel pump and give it a full 12v, then crank?

sounds strange, is the engine original with the proper loom and distributor?