Rust

This is a SPFI ea82 (no carb). AKA Crank Angle Sensor System So I'm guessing the early ones had a clip on cap and a screw on rotor. 1985-1988 ??? and the later ones had a screw on cap and a clip(press on) on rotor. 1988-1994 ???? looks like I will have to go directly to an autoparts store to get the correct cap, or just swap distributors.

Has anyone been able to modify a later screw on cap, to an early snap on cap. Or does anyone know the part # for the early ea82 snap on cap, and screw on rotor. when I order a replacement from they keep sending a ea81 cap. Also can a later 1988-1994 complete distributor, swap into an early 1985-1987 ea82.

Long live the Herb Green Subaru's

I would just run a toggle switch so you can manually control the fan.

To part this car out would be a major mistake, I would install a piece of plexiglass until you can find a rear window.

Well have replaced the fuel filter, spark plug wires, and air idle control valve.........still having hard start when hot. The good news it is very predictable. After shutting the engine off I can re-start it within 0-25 minutes later. However after 30 minutes of being off, I have to then wait 30-45minutes to re-start. I have some more parts to throw at it, we will see what develops. Is there an easy way to get to the fuel pump relay, and how can it be by-passed?

run some wax on the belt. or just spray it with WD40. If that doesn't silence it , then most likely a the bearings in the alternator it getting ready to fail.

another rust free west coast subaru, parted out.......sigh. The steering wheel and grill are pre-1978, not brat parts.

Should rename it TOA (Tick of Annoyance). I have never had an EA82 motor die from the tick. My best results have come from flushing the motor with a cocktail of Seafoam, ATF, and Risoline.

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/wheels.html

I have several spare dizzys. Will give it a try.

Cover all metal surfaces with stickers.

I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Still hasn't fixed the problem. Here are the current symptoms. Car will re-start when hot from 0-15 min after shut-off. After sitting 15 minutes VERY HARD to re-start. Then have to wait up to 45 min to wait to re-start. I ordered up some new parts for a basic winter tune up. Air filter, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, and fuel filter. (have good air control valve in my parts stash) Going to replace parts 1 at a time to finally pin down what is causing the problem. Any folks w/ similar symptoms feel free to chime in.

Well throwing the autolites in the garbage can and running the NGK's has fixed the problem for the last few months. Unfortunately the hard start when hot problems are back. It is also idling like crap, almost to the point of stalling when hot. While waiting for it to cool down to re-start the other day I took the boot off of the TBI and it made it want to start more. So maybee it is either getting flooded when hot, or not enough air when hot. If I have time to tinker on it, I'll try swapping out the coolant temp sensor, or the air control valve.

this photo also works for the thread "how do you weld next to your gas tank"

rotary mazda, brat, and a westfallia. looks like you have all the bases covered!

I think plaid is going to make a big comeback, and my subaru is ready to lead the charge. If your bands reunion tour comes up to CT look me up. In the meantime keep your polyester clean, and your leisure suits locked and loaded.

It's yellow but its a wagon.......however the plaid brown interior matches your lead singers boots.

Here is a pic of an option. I'm thinking of the same thing for my brat, BUT my top is in great shape and I don't want to drill holes in it.