bratman18

Sweet, but those are all the same pictures

Sweet! Lets see some more pics! I'm jealous I've always wanted one ever since I drove one! And the one I drove was smashed bad in the front!

$44 shipped sounds good to me! I'd get that!

possibly a vacuum leak. I dunno about the high voltage though

I thought he meant running it in the front

I have heard of several rear diffs mounted upside down for this type of application. And I've never heard of it being a problem. This project is looking awesome! It makes me want to do something to mine once it gets rusty enough! Looks awesome so far!!

As far as fitting in the engine bay and hooking up to the stock tranny, they all are the same size and they all need an adapter to hook the motor to the stock tranny. Yup sorry! Except for the 2.5's, the DOHC 2.5's are too big. But I would recommend a 2.2 anyway, they as a rule are much more reliable

Thanks for the link. I have never seen one lower than like 65 bucks! So it's good to know they can be had cheaper. The one in my car right now is an ebay one and it's worked great ever since I put it in!

The site that you linked is a member here. It is Backinbrat maybe he can help you sort out some ideas.

Yeah same here, I have Polaris 500 and the tires only take about 6 lbs. It's crazy that they will work on something like this!

What knock sensor are you using? The cheapest I've ever seen one was 65 bucks, and depending on the intake ducts that are on the car, can take more like 15 min to change. Still pretty easy.

Very nice! Looks really clean, Anything wrong with it or was it ready to go

Looks pretty good! Did you pull any trim or anything when you painted your Brat?

The subaru mechanic I worked for was working on subarus for at least 20 yrs and has done them the same way since he started and has never needed to retension them. The only time he ever goes back in is to replace them again 60+ thousand miles later. That's what I'm going by.

yes they will be short but that's why you build some blocks for the rear. I think there is a how to on subarubrat.com or subazero.com There is a good pick on subazero.com Go under subaru build and suspension.

yeah sounds like the torsion bar is no good. You should put the rear coilovers back in.

Sweet! Glad it worked out for you!

Not unless you absolutely have to to!

I would think you could easily run a bar behind the seats and weld it to the floor on each side. And then attach harnesses to that.

Yeah if it can be done with a Loyale, than you could do it to a Brat.

yes and I would think it would be somewhere close to where those numbers were. It should be just to the left of the disty, and back a little. Or maybe towards the back near the bell housing. You don't need to remove anything to see it.

I have no idea what those numbers are. There has to be a stamp there someplace that says EA81 or EA71. It is only a couple inches long at the most, and is a stamp. Maybe someone else will know what that number means.

Sweet! So with it in lo range it will be well below the stock gearing. It should go quite nicely

As for the front struts...yes you can put Loyale style into a Brat. They fit right in. But I'm not sure about doing too much welding on the side of the strut. I would think that it would get them too hot and cause premature failure, But I would love it if someone said different.

If they are done right in the first place there is no need to retension them. I have heard of shops having people come in to retension the before, but they were not shops that ever work on Subarus, and again, if they are done correctly you shouldn't have to retension them until they need to be replaced.