bratman18

Yeah you can remove the lower shock bolt too, but I've always just removed the two bolts for the rear diff and lowered it enough to take the axle off. And then yes you need to use a punch and hammer and remove the lock ring in the back of the hub. I figured he'd see that himself. I live where the rust is terrible and mine was quite rusty, but I was still able to get everything apart without much trouble. Yes the bearing race will most likely be a three piece deal. So you'll have to drive them out from the outside individually.

Looks good! I always took a propane torch and lightly went all over the surface of the bumpers. It made them go right back to a nice semi-glossy black. It always worked great for me. Just make sure you don't hold it in one spot....obviously it will burn if it gets too hot

Welcome! Lots of info here! Look forward to seeing your car

Hope it helps! And good luck with it!

There is a pin just behind the rear hub and then another that is closer to the rear diff. Honestly either one will work. But you will also have to lower your rear diff to get the axle off. Then once the rear diff is lowered and the pin is out, the axle should slide off the splines and then you'll be able to use a wood block and hammer the shaft out of the hub

yes you need to remove the rear cv axle to get to the bearing. You need to punch out the pin, and remove the rear axle, so that you can remove the stub shaft that goes through the hub.

Sweet deal! Get some pics when you get it!

Well the only way to really tell is to pull them all. You can't always tell just by looking at them

I would say a fuse. You're gonna have to look at them and figure out which fuses work the headlights. Did you notice any of the wires damaged after the crash?

I've never heard of someone actually offering this! Wow! They should do that around here! sounds like an ok price but honestly. just do it yourself. It's very easy. Just wash thoroughly, let it dry very well, and then apply whatever kind of oil you want!

Sweet! Can't wait to see it!

Yeah that's cool and very smart! If he ever need more gearing, he can just swap out a few parts!!!!! I'm jealous!

Sweet! The tires are HUGE for a Brat or any subaru for that matter! You have tom remember that the stock tire is a 185 70 13! So having a 35 inch tire is insane!! Hopefully the gearing will work really well with the amount power it puts out. If so than it should drive ok. Cool project

no prob! If you run into any problems feel free to ask!!

Those tires are huge!!!! That's gonna be insane on a Brat! Can't wait to see it when it's done, and in action. So does that mean the rear is being held up by itself now?

You won't need a hub tamer on one of those. I've done them before, they are actually pretty easy and self explanatory. But you will need to remove the brakes. But again, not too hard.

That's not a bad choice, but at that mileage, I would personally go with 10w40. You are in a warm climate too. But that's just my opinion.

The SVX was a 3.3 H6. Not the same motor, not the same car.

Supposedly after 2003 it was cleared up........

Actually his 2002 WRX will have a 2.0 unless he upgraded to a 2.5 from a newer WRX which he says nothing about. But yeah I dunno what he's talkin about with the Porsche Boxter motor. I don't think he know his subarus, that's for sure!

What is it? The pics are gone now

The spark plus are really only a pain to change in the newer ones, especially the DOHC models!!

Sucks that both went out at the same time, but at least they are cheap!!

IIRC there is a fuse for each side. So maybe by chance both low beam elements went out. I'm also assuming that it has EA82 GL style headlights

The forester is actually built on the Impreza chassis, so I would guess what ever the newer Impreza has it would be the same. I know that the newer STI's have 5x114 but I dunno if the regular Imprezas were the same or not.