BobBrumby

Should be under dash near the head light relays, well relays for something. Has 6 wires going to plug if the same as an ea81, it a little silver can. Also I didnot have to change my wiper motor but again its an ea81.

Also if I remeber rightly the ND has a better advance curve aswell.

Sorry to get off topic but this reminds me of a 'wokrmate' with a triton, even tho he had tacho in his dash he installed a 6 inch monster tacho on the dash. Pft he also went to an exhuast shop and asked for a loud custom setup, so you know wot kind of person he was. I believe you hook the seonsor wire to negitive side of coil or points breaker. You can also get the on power from the possitive side of coil.

Heh you can also turn your foot side ways and use the brake and accelerator at the same time . Sorry about being negative but everytime I see someone roll back at the lights I think: learn how to drive or how about some effort.

Its like for noobies who cant use a handbrake to do a hill start, nah jk. Yeh but you dont have to brake you just let out the clutch on a hill and you dont roll back.

There is a spring that makes the shifter sit below third and above forth, if thats what your talking about. Some bushes could get it less sloppy but the linkage modification fixes most of the slop. Urabus there is ment to be a green bush on the bottom of the shifter, if you run it long enough with out one the knob that the bush attaches to wears out and may not have enough length anymore to stay in the hole.

Try you local subaru dealership. Short shift mod: cut the shifter down , I dont think there is any aftermarket kits like there are for the newer soobies.

It is worse to underrev an engine than overrev it to an extent. 2300-3000 is way too low. I rev 1st out preddy high than the rest are at or above 4 grand. Hehe ea81 are slugs between 1-3 grand. Also what do these engines red line at?

Can you use coolent flow from both the heads and t it just before the turbo so both heads are contributing to turbo cooling instead of just heating up one? Just a hairbrained sceam.

have you tried a stocking yet

The trimmed fenders look cool, gives me an idea

If you got a good back, you and a mate shold be able to lift out an ea82 as they are only a little heavier that the 90ish kg ea81 which my dad and I got out. A third person is also helpfull when doing the final lift over top radiator support.

Erm its a capacitor that stops the emf from getting into your sterio, I think it gets conected accross your points?. Does the static change frequency when the engine revs up higher. Load cables near your speaker wiring wont do much unless they are getting switched on and off all the time or current is consistantly changing, as a magentic field has to move in/out for it to induce an electic current into another wire. This is also why you drop power to your coil you get a spark. Our work van seems to have the same problem with sterio, you can hear the coil firing, seems to get allot worse when not under load. Have not got round to fixing it yet as the sliding door keeps falling off and this is taking up all of our 'free time'. Btw the resister you are talking about I have only seen on older coils for soobs and am pretty sure has nothing to with the interference as I dont have one and mine is fine.

Yeh I found an int wiper switch in parts pile rang up a subi wrecker got an intermitent wiper module (fixed delay). The switch plugs into the same conectors as the other switch and you need to find a plug under your dash that has 6 wires going to it with a plug into it that has one wire jumpered from one wire to another. Take out this plug an put your module in instead. Btw this was in a Brumby so I dont know if l series are different.

Well I was looking in my fuse box today in my burmby to find that subaru supplied a small white plastic tong to get the fuses out. Just thought I would share.

Also for all you aussies out there $1 coin does the trick for us, 10c is a little too small btw.

duh us gots no gosh darn schooling places down under

at a cost to your axle joints...

When i got round to it I found the cone washer is allot softer metal than what I thought, the bastard file ate through it pretty fast. It seemed to pull in nice into the hub when I tourqued it up after the fact.

Yeh thats what I thought, so on the other side so I sanded it down but then when I saw this side I thought hang on maybe that ridge was ment to be there because it was so pronouced. If I do grind it down it will be with an angle grinder as there is atleast 1mm of metal to remove. Being worn this much, could the cone washer sit under the edge of the hub and not wedge like its ment to? As you did not say anything about the convex washers they should be alright to reuse?

Found a loose castle nut so I checked em All, Two had their concave/convex washer the wrong way round, concave out and wore the castle nuts but thats fine i got spares. I think it also put this ridge on my cone washer: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9836&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 . Can you buys these new from dealerships still, thats if that ridge aint ment to be their? Also should i replace the concave/convex washer aswell?

Sorry for not being more speicific but what temp would the exhuast headers reach? So I supose you dont use any sealent with your quarters? Oh and are your coins made of nickle?

I am blocking the air injection system down at where the headers bolt onto the heads. I found a circular peice of metal that fits well, namely a 10 cent peice, and wanted to use some 316 degrees CELCIUS red rtv silcon on the thread. Will this this stuff cut the mustard?

I modified my accel. cable holer using a vice and a hammer. Straighen the old in the vice. then posstion the piece in the vice so the 10mm? bolt hole will have enough room and hit with hammer till bent 90 degrees. now put the other end in vice again so it just has enough room to get the cable on bang this out the other way. Now you should have almost z section and a straight pull from the end of the cable sleath to the throttle plate.

Oil in coolent could be tranny fluid as the auto's need a cooler in the radiator and they rust allowing the two to mix, if im not mistaken.