svxpert

<<Removing timing belt when marks are aligned – left side is under tension (valves are pushed in by camshaft) and might rotate which is OKAY. Intake will rotate counterclockwise, exhaust clockwise to take them out of tension. End wrench article http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf) suggests that you need the special Subaru double hex tool – not true.>> what did you use to hold the cams when you put the belt on?

yeah, try to tighten it. its a 22 mm bolt. the pulley doesn't have a bearing in it, it just slides on the crankshaft, lined up with a keyway.

http://www.subaru-global.com/about/history/1989-001.html#subhead-001

why would you use a different weight oil than the owners manual recomends?

<<I know the first generations Impreza first had a 4WD instead of the actual AWD (maybe not everywhere, but here it was the case up to about '96-'97)>> the 4EAT was an AWD transmission. subaru started putting them in the xt-6. not sure why they would go back and put old technology into a newer car (impreza). i would like to see the 4WD impreza myself.

it should work but how are you planning to fix the crank end? if you need a DOHC shortblock, i have one in my garage i just removed from a 97 Legacy GT. 110,000 miles on it. yours for $150 picked up. thanks

well being that the owners manual is produced by the manufacturer (Subaru), i would believe it more than i would a "(dis)repair manual that is produced by an outside company.

green colored coolant, mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

<<For US vehicles, Phase I 2.5 L engines used in -Foresters beginning in 1999. -Legacies and Outbacks beginning in 2000 -not sure about other models 2.2 L engines are not prone to the same headgasket issues.>> i think your years are a little off.

is it this one? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50537

<<Ok so it took the dealer three attempts to fix my clutch and $1400. >> wow, that sucks. i did a members Forester clutch last year for $800. that included the disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing and flywheel replaced. even replaced the rear separator plate. hope it works out for you.

<<Sales tax- $.016>> how do you pay .016 cents for tax? whats your sales tax rate?

<<For peace of mind on your road trip: Fit a brand new Genuine Subaru radiator cap and bring a gallon of fresh coolant.>> how about a gallon of 50/50 mix of coolant and water. you don't put un mixed / dilluted coolant in a subaru.

<<Subaru went back to chain in H6 for mere space savings.>> went back? when did they ever have a chain before the H-6?

<<The last two allowed me to perfect the timing belt replacement. I ended up doing it 3 times in a week. The big thing I want to emphasize is that you can ignore the teeth counts. Just look at the belt and line it up with the sprockets. It should come close to the marks on the engine, but might be off by a cog or a half.>> nice post. "teeth counts" has been a regular topic here lately. i have replaced many subaru timing belts and have never once sat there and counted teeth. just line up the cams and the belt properly and you'll be fine.

<<For those years, ALL Subaru models, including Legacy, were still built in Japan. Of course many more were built and sold in other worldwide markets, but the numbers I gave you were for the vehicle manufactured and produced for the US market ONLY. It was not until 1995 that Legacy models were built in the USA, but again, I would only be quoting you the number of models made for the US market. Many more were built and sold in Japan, UK, Germany, Australia, etc.>> i know for a fact that SIA was built in 91-92 and started building Legacys in 93-94.

<<the usa? doesnt count the ones made in japan, or iin canada?>> subaru's made in canada? none.

<<That tensioner was probably damaged by re-using it. They cant be pressed back and re-pinned as easily as the old ones, and if he did it in a vise it damages it internally. The re-use has to be done very gently and slowly and not horizantally like you would in a vise it has to be done in a press so you can monitor that its not going in crooked or anything.>> i agree you have to press it gently, but it doesn't matter horizontal or vertical. i have always re-used the tentioner as long as its not leaking (i have never seen one leak). these tentioners are the same ones subaru have been using since the 2.2. i believe there used in the 2.0 also.

i have a remote that should work. check the rear of the remote for the FCC ID: mine is : A269ZUA111

<<I would make sure all the pulleys are there. Check and make sure the idler pulley on the bottom is there. Also make sure all the sprockets and pulleys are in good working condition.>> the car won't start if ANY of the pulleys or tentioners are misisng. what I would do is find another mechanic. i think the timing jumping has something to do with the tentioner.

<<We only got one remote and Key, I'd like another one.>> if you could post a pic of the remote you have, i have a few new ones. maybe i can match it up.

<<But it also is useful to bleed the system of air pockets that you cannot get rid of by using only the rad opening and bleeder screw. >> I have had to bleed the air out of 100's of subarus, for different reasons. Some of the systems I have bleed don't have a bleeder screw. If you do the correct procedure, you will never have "air pockets" still in the coolant system, unless you have HG failure. <<First it's useful to force flush the cooling system.>> If you use the correct coolant mixture, and perform the correct service intervals, you should never need to "force flush' the system.

<<I'll have to look but when you add a T fitting, the brim of the top opening of the T is then maybe the highest point in the cooling system.>> yeah, but thats doing twice the work. i don't understand why people do all these unnessasary things when they can save time and money and do things the right way?

<<choose the heater core hose that is the highest from the ground, it should be the highest point in the cooling system. >> the heater hose on a Subaru isn't the highest point in the cooling system. The radiator cap on N/A vehicles is, and the expantion tank on the turbo vehicles is.

how did you bleed the air from the system when you replaced the coolant? did you use a 50/50 mix?