svxpert

<<I'm located in Philadelphia, PA and I'd like some recommendations for an honest competent shop where I can take it to have it looked at and to have the work done or what shops to stay away from (besides Cottman & Aamco).>> <<I'm also in the SJ/Philly area and am just about out of warranty and am looking for a good shop, can you foward that info to me? >> OK, who let the cat out of the bag!!! no just kidding. i have a shop in the south jersey area that only works on Subarus. My head mechanic is a Senior Subaru Master Tech that still works for Subaru. I have been over on the SVX Network (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/) for a number of years. My shop specializes in 60/120K services and most all service work. (water, oil pump, engine re-seals ect.) Last sunner I ran a special of a $350 SVX 60/120K service. I had customers from New York, western Pa and even Conneticut come over for the service. I had a woman on here last month from Va for a timing belt replacement. I only use OEM parts, unless you supply them. in that case i can't stand by the part for any type of warranty if its aftermarket. I stand 110% behind my work and I don't think anyone can beat my prices. If anyone needs service work done, feel free to mail me or post on here, i will put the prices right out there for all to see. I'll respond to all my messages and e-mail later today. thanks ~ SVXPERT

<<can anybody tell me why Subaru designs engines with rubber timing belts instead of metal ones?>> better gas mileage, and noise reduction. <<yes someone please chime in with the correct info regarding subes being interference or non-interference motors.>> this has been covered in previous posts but i'll post some answers EA series ER27 non inter- first gen EJ22 EG33 (only because it has cam gears that never fail) EJ18 inter- second generation EJ22 EJ25 EJ20 EJ255 Forester XT EJ237 STi

<<Is it a 32mm or 33mm? >> 32MM <<Also, how in the hell does one "unstake" (SOA word) the axle nut? It looks as if it is crimped on.>> Just use an impact gun and it will come right off.

part number for the ca-spec 2.2 belt is: 13028AA150

<<So I go to Subaru web page, look at Specifications for North America, and see Camshaft drive belt, 2.2L engine, replace at 60 and 120 Miles. If I go Specifications for CA, I see replace at 105 miles. Subies - I'm still confused !! Help!>> here is a quick sum up of your dilema. your 97 Impreza wagon came from the factory with a 60,000 mile timing belt. if your car was made Cal-Spec (california specifications) it would come out with a 105,000 mile timing belt as per california laws for emmisions. being that you live on the east coast, your car is prob not cal-spec. timing belts are now made for (about) 1996 and up to either be a 60,000 or a 105,000 for the impreza and legacy (sorry no SVX). when you come up next week for your service at my shop, i will put in a 105,000 belt so you will have an extended period until you need to change it again. hope this helps.

EndWrench is a Subaru publication. no reason to doubt the techinical article.

i do timing belts at my shop for the 2.2 for $175, add a water pump and its $225. All OEM Subaru parts. my mail is : subarueast@yahoo.com thanks

<<In Australia, the recommended interval is 100,000km (~60,000 miles). >> in the USA, Subaru has made all 2000+ cars with timing belts Cal-Spec, which means the recommended change is 105,000.

<<WHAT? The head bolts must not be used again! Once they have been stretched, that's it. Makes me wonder if this point could explain why some people have had their EJ25 HG's fail repeatedly?>> can you show us where in a factory manual it says to use new ones?

<< I didnt use the car over the weekend and Monday it ran fine. Tuesday it started to overheat again and by Thursday it was in the shop.>> is the shop you take it to a subaru shop? if its not, i believe they are not bleeding the air out correctly and might have damaged the car. (i have seen this so many times i wish i had a nickle each time!)

here is my take on the question. if your going to re-tourque the headbolts, you should buy new headgaskets as well. one reason is once you take the pressure off the headgasket (done by re-tourquing) the headgasket loses the sealing power. you never want to use HG's twice. the other part of my answer would be that there is no need to retourque them unless you had the engine rebuilt and don't trust the person who rebuilt it. engines out of the factory are made very well, just the design of some certain engines might be questionable. on the part of using the headbolts again is as long as you clean them up good, i have always re-used the headbolts when rebuilding my engines.

i have some brand new Subaru transmitters for sale. these transmitters fit 1999 2004 Subaru's with factory keyless and have new batteries in them. $18 each or two for $30. shipping is from nj. ldelrosso - i P.M. 'ed you. thanks

P.M. 'ed you

<<As for the other questions... No, yes, and yes. All the 5 lug patterns are the same. Any Legacy/Impreza Wheel will fit any Legacy/Impreza as long as it is the same size or larger than the factory wheel. (IE you can't put 14" wheels on an RS since they came with 15" wheels. The wheel would hit the brakes.) So, you can put any Subaru wheel that is 5 lug on your car. Lots of us have 95+ Legacys with the 16" WRX wheels on them since they can be found pretty cheap. >> almost right. the SVX wheels only share the 2005 STi bolt pattern, so legacy doesn't fit the SVX and vice versa. New STi will only fit SVX unless it hits the brakes or strut because of offset.

sounds like the coolant temp sensor. located on coolant crossover pipe (right rear of engine)

does it have a check engine light? is your a/c on or off when this happens? P.M. me you like.

rear diff if you have a Turbo Legacy its a LSD if you have a N/A Legacy you have a open diff.

<<All 2.5's, ALL DOHC and ALL USA spec engines since 1997 ARE interference engines. >> nope. the 97 EG33 isn't interference.

pm'ed you. check your box.

i should be able to make it this sat. i have a 60/120K SVX service to do, i might do it sunday. if anyone wants my RX thats for sale, pick it up on the way, i live about 20 minutes from the dirt and mud, here is a link to it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16882 i have lots of other stuff to get rid of like 14" alloy 4 lug subaru wheels with tires, spyder intakes, shortblocks, EA-82 stuff. feel free to mail me. thanks

<<I am also thinking of the potential of Subaru bumping the engine to 300 HP since it is the same engine as in the WRX.>> the WRX has a 2.0 engine in it. the new turbo legacys have a 2.5 in them. so what exactly do you want to the engine?

at the flywheel.

<<While I'm here, anybody have any tips for accessing that bottom left nut on the engine/bellhousing? I had a hell of a time getting a wrench first, and then getting force on the wrech, on that nut.>> 14mm flex socket with long extention.

gotcha, i'm off work friday so i think i'll be able to get pics for you. thanks

<<aside from making sure everything is disconnected, it can be a bear to separate the two. after about 2 hours of trying everything imaginable (including my neighbor standing on the engine while i shook/pryed it), i hit a flat spot on the bellhousing with the butt end of a long breaker bar. low and behold, a hairline crack opened up. slowly but surely, i was able to get it apart more and more, until i could get something in between to wedge them apart.>> you have to jack up the tranny about 1-3 inches before you try to pull the engine. this will make the engine mount bolts clear the engine crossmember. then it will slide right off. thats all you need to do.