suberdave

i would say, they keep finding me. wasnt really looking for another EJ20G, it just kinda fell into my lap... -=Suberdave=-

my $0.02 check your yellow power wire at pin 2 into the coil pack when cranking. sounds like maybe you have acc power there so it has power in all positions but crank. thus a little pop when first cranking or right after cranking... this pin should have B+ power. so it has power in all key positions. if thats not it try checking grounds the ignitor has a common ground with ECU pins a11 and a22. dont just use an ohm meter. do a voltage drop across the ground, find out how good of a ground you have. hope this helps... if it dosnt let me know and ill look at the schmatics when i have more time. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

yeah both front struts are bent. the good struts from this car were swaped out for these bent ones off of a lifted subaru that was jumped... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i may have to bring more than one car... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

some before pics of my new swap... the car... 1987 Turbo Coupe. CA car = no rust. needs new hood. have new grill... the engine: 1993 WRX RA... need i say more? 5th injector for more pics check out my websight... http://www.suberdave.com/subaru/RX-RA/ extras: full body kit. panted black... XT6 suspension and hubs front and rear... 17" wheels... 205/40/17 tires... Xt6 sways front and rear... I think ill call her REX-RAY -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

if you are going to be off roading id go with the D/R -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

there is a huge difference in weight between the turbo pully and an N/A pully. the N/A pully is about 1/4 the weight of the turbo pully. eather will work. but i would guess the N/A one would be better... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i snaped one off. deep inside the rad. i just took a torch and heeted up a screwdriver and melted it into the plastic of the petcock. then unscrewed it like it was nothing... if you need a new one. i have bought a few from performance radiator. fare price and good service. if you just need one to get you buy. i have one you could talk me out of pretty cheep. im about 30 mins SE of Seattle. -=Suberdave=-

on the EA-82 the distribuiter is ECU controled. and is more of a cam sensor than anything... look around, see if you can retrofit points into something to make it work... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

what do you mean? you want a stock ECU to plug in and make it work? if so we need more info. any EA-82 ECU will not fit in any car. look for numbers on your ECU. i have one from an 88 GL-10 $20 + shipping if you are looking for aftermarket P&P ECU i dont think there is one... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

here are some pics of what i did to make the rad. fit in my car... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

cooling: you can make the legacy radiator fit. takes a bit of triming but it works well Power steering: i beleave it will bolt right up. i know the NA 2.2 dose. if not, it only cost me $20 to have custom hoses made for my EJ20G conversion. A/C will not be so easy but who needs AC... pics of my radiator @ http://www.suberdave.com -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

HA... been there done that. but mine came home on a hook. good thing for AAA. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

that sucks. i hope you can find out whats wrong. remember to check your basics... -=Suberdave=-

much easier than you think. i did a 96 JDM EJ20G in my 88 GL10 wagon. took 2 weeks. the engine drops right in (as long as you have a turbo X-member) the trany bolts right up if you use the front and rear X-member peaces from an XT6 and the center peace from a WRX. the drive shaft has to be shortened 55MM. the rear diff bolts right up (my 4.111:1 R160 LSD) the rear axels you have to buy adapters to mount the EJ inners to the EA axles, cost $6 each from rockford CV. the front EJ axels bolt right up. (if you use EJ front knuckles) i used the WRX front struts, knuckles, hubs, barrings, rotors, tie rod ends and calapers (stock 2pot). XT6 lower control arms. the EJ radeator fits with some triming. the shift linkage must be shortend. then use rear hubs, roters, calapers and backing plates from an XT6, this way you have 5X100 in the rear also. 17X7 wheels fit nicely with an offset of 40-42 and 205/40R17 tires (the spedo is even right on with 4.111:1 gears) the wiring takes the longest. but if you have a good diagram its not a problem. just remember "do it once, do it right" i think i got everything. but im sure i for got something. if you need to know more, post or PM... check out my websight for more pics. sorry no write-up yet... http://www.suberdave.com -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

just get off the fince. get your but in gear. and build that car. i know at one time you had one hell of an EA82t. but since that blew up, it seams you have been all talk and no action. lets see some action, we all know you can do it. my $0.02, go EJ -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i didnt say an EJ turbo swap. i just said EJ swap. the EA82t has 115HP the EJ22 has 142HP and yeah you can find a 2.2 legacy around here for $500. if you want to do a 2.2t swap i have seen many 2.2t legacys go for around 1k, or if you really wanted to make that thing move. a WRX 260HP clip can be found for 2.5k ish. just my $0.02 take it for what its worth. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com=-

if your going to go through all that trouble to do a swap. i would go with an EJ swap. it will cost you about the same and you will be doing the same work. and you will get more HP. cant loose. -=Suberdave=-

i would say that is way to high. unless your running 114 octain fuel... i would say 6-7 PSI would be good with high comp. but i dont think you can go that low with a td04.. -=Suberdave=-

i have done 3 subaru engines that way now. i have never used tires, always used cinder blocks. but you get the point. much easyer than pulling out the top -=Suberdave=-

it can be done. as seen on my webpage. http://www.suberdave.com. USDM STI's are EJ25, EJ205, EJ207 JDM STI's are EJ20. (correct me if im wrong, i dont know much about newer Subaru stuff.) it will take some minor modification, but it only took me about 100 hours to do mine. the wiring is the hardest part. everything else just about bolts right up... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

make sure that the belt is on right. if one of the cams is 180* out it may not start at all. -=Suberdave=-

sign up and post pics. dosnt cost anythnig and ist real easy... -=Suberdave=-

here it is... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2359852 tell me what you think....... -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

nope i have done a few engines that did not have one. just get that thing tight. i have had one come off. thats not fun... the last one i did, i made a role pin so it couldnt back off. -=Suberdave=-