Fairtax4me

You wont get a code for a mechanical condition that the computer can't monitor. The computer cant check bearings, pistons, or most other mechanical parts. If it goes away when its warm, then its piston slap and isn't a problem. Sounds more like a bad timing tensioner or rod knock to me. I would pull the timing cover off and see if the tensioner is bouncing around when its running. Did it start making this noise suddenly? Or has it been making it for some time and has slowly become louder?

No that's correct. You should have 12v at all times on the red wire in pin 1. That wire gets power from the same circuit that feeds the fuel pump relay, main relay, and the ECU. Check for 12v there. Key does not need to be on, it should be hot all the time. If that has 12v, Check your ground on the black and red wires. That circuit grounds to the engine with the main ECU harness on top of the intake manifold.

IIRC the outback has larger brakes and the 14" wheels won't fit, but you might be able to try them and see.

That's the Subaru jerk, and they all pretty much do it. Can't say I noticed a huge difference, but that might have been because I was focusing on other things. Thinking about it, I would say it may be slightly better with the new driveshaft, but its still there. The carrier bearing itself won't make a difference in that, but if the rubber hanger around the bearing is worn out then a new one will probably make a difference in that jerkiness. Any worn suspension bushings will also add to that jerkiness, same with old worn or aftermarket axles.

Can't beat that! Swap away!

95 2.2 is a direct drop in for that 98. People do it all the time, it's the perfect swap as far as simplicity is concerned. No need to swap trans or anything. Put your engine in it and ride on.

What kind of plugs? Did you replace the wires? If so what brand of wires?

Start signal circuit will not cause the engine to stall. That circuit only provides a signal to the ECU that the key has been turned to the start position. What exactly the ECU does with that signal I'm not sure of. The code is p1100, not p0100?

Probably a burned exhaust valve.

Dohc engines burn valves because nobody ever checks the valve lash clearance. Compression or leak down test on number 3 will tell you what's going on. Cam timing will not affect one cylinder. It will affect the two cylinders on the same side.

Is your car AWD or Fwd?

Won't fit the legacy struts. The tires will hit the spring perch. With Outback struts those tires will fit fine.

Yeah you can remove it, but the spring and the detent ball will fall out, so you just have to make sure you don't lose them. The crush washer is replaceable. A dealer may stock one that size if you really need to replace it. Or you can probably take it to Napa and have them match one up. Usually if they leak a little you just tighten them up some and they stop.

I don't envy you. Have done a few 4eats on the lift with a trans jack and they're cake, but last one I did was on the floor in my friends garage and it wasn't fun or pretty. Manual trans I can handle just fine on my own, but that 4eat is a beast and the two of us barely got the thing back into place.

Bigger hammer! JK. When they're rusty its pretty much going to be a fight and that's just the way it is. A combination of methods has worked for me in the past, but mostly its lots of hammering and swearing and priseing. Sometimes some heat, and usually a couple sprays of good penetrating oil. Get to do a ball joint this weekend on my 95. 261k miles original joint and it looks pretty rusted in there!

Looks like the bolts that hold the shift rail detent springs. It's fairly common for those to seep a little. Should have an aluminum washer under it. Try tightening it a bit and see if it stops.

They're either test/diagnostic connectors or wire connectors for some option your car doesn't have. Leave them unplugged.

I would guess brake pads, but it could be other things as well. Had a squeal/squeak noise coming from the carrier bearing on the driveshaft on my 96. Sprayed it with some pb blaster and it went away for about a day. Ended up replacing the driveshaft. Didn't want to have that lock up while I was driving.

How many miles on it? How long has it been overheating? That engine isn't known to have internal head gasket failures but its possible. What are outside temps when it does this? Should be getting a little chilly up in MA?

It's not uncommon for people to have negative effects from the fumes created in a new car. Some people are more sensitive to it than others. The Subaru dealer did some good by letting it air out for a few weeks, but the chemials used in production of a new car can take 6 months to a year to totally dissipate. It's best to leave the windows cracked slightly whenever you can. If the car sits in a hot parking lot with the windows all closed up the fumes will be much worse due to the heat. A slightly open window will allow those times to escape. Same goes for when you drive long distances. Keep a window cracked open a little to let fresh air vent in/out of the car. Also remember to pull off at a gas station or rest stop at least every 2 hours to stretch and get some fresh air, drinks, snacks, etc. The spotting/fogging problem with the windshield is somewhat common to newer vehicles. It's created by running the defrost, which uses the AC to dry the air and remove fog from the inside of the windshield. The problem is this cools the windshield, and causes moisture to condense on the outside, which creates that spotting pattern as rain hits the glass. There are a few things you can do to prevent that. The best thing is to adjust the temperature control so the defrost is not blowing cold air onto the windshield. Set the temperature for something that is close to outside air temp. Only use the defrost function if it's absolutely needed. Try running it for just a few minutes to clear the windshield, then switch to the normal vent or vent/floor setting. Use the recirculate function in wet/rainy weather. Using the fresh air function will continuously pull in that moist air from outside and will cause fogging of the windows. Using the recirculate air function will not draw in outside air, and the air inside will be dried by the evaporator core as it circulates through the car, which will help prevent fogging of the windows.

There's a big o-ring gasket on the oil cooler that causes that leak. Next time you change the oil get a new gasket and pull the cooler down and change it. Usually you don't have to remove the hoses from it, but you may need to remove the bolts where the pipe for the one hose is bolted to the block. IIRC it's a 22 mm socket to remove the center post in the cooler.

Make sure the backing plate isn't rubbing on the rotor first. Also have you driven it to bed in the new pads? Mileage is kinda low for a wheel bearing to fail on that year. AWD the hub is pressed into the bearing after the bearing is pressed into the knuckle, so you can't buy a pre-assembled hub/bearing kit. Those will only be for FWD models. Use your old hub. 99% of the time there's nothing wrong with the hub. Buy a quality bearing like SKF or Timken, or get an OE Subaru bearing through an online dealer. Also be sure to replace both seals.

P0420 code? Always start with a tune-up. Spark plugs will make all the difference in the world if they're old and worn out. If they have more than 50k on them replace them. Air filter, fuel filter, and a Subaru PCV valve. Go after expensive O2 sensors if that doesn't clear up the problem.

Impreza 99-01 have a 99.2" wheelbase 02-07 Impreza have a 99.4" wheelbase 01 Forester wheelbase is 99.4" According to cars101.com Among those you should be able to use the driveshaft from any impreza, but may need to make spacers for the carrier bearing bracket to achieve the correct driveshaft angle.

They broke it. The clockspring isn't removed at all during working on the steering rack, but if the steering wheel isn't kept at the center position, AND the rack is not properly centered during installation, the clockspring WILL be broken the first time the steering wheel gets turned all the way.