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Thanks for the advise/tips MOTM. I'm gonna try for a hoist, or find somewhere with a tree or whatnot to lift from. Otherwise, I'll get a floor jack and inch the motor forwards. Very good suggestions, hopefully this weekend I'll have time to rip it up. I guess I'll go buy a beer on my test drive, then drink it when I get home

Interesting, a wonderful tidbit of information to save me frustration! Thank you very much.

I know I'm bumping an old thread, but why do you suggest to tighten the pressure plate bolts through the starter hole? I've never heard anything about this before.

So I've moved and now I'm a mere 15 miles from real gas. Would it upset the ecosystem to put real gas in my GL and remind it of its childhood?

While on the topic of ethanol and gas. Is there any ill effect of switching back to non-ethanol gas? My GL obviously grew up on real gas, and switched a few years ago. Now I've moved somewhere I can readily get real gas. As I make short trips, or just ride my bike, I can have the same tank of gas for two weeks... would it hurt switching back, then maybe in the future going back to e10 again? I just don't want to open a can of worms with my fuel system..

So, just to make sure I'm getting this right... Ea82 clutch. 4wd. 24 splines, 225mm or 8-7/8". Correct?

AH! heater hoses. right. So I may as well just do it right and put in new coolant while I have it apart. It's been over two years, so it's due.

Weird question... Me thinks yes, but here goes. 89GL with ea81 swap. Can I pull the engine with the radiator attached? I'm 1100 miles from home living somewhere I can't work on my car, really. I need to be discreet about it, not make messes, etc. Or do it at work. I need to replace my clutch, so I'll just beg, borrow, rent an engine hoist. BUT, would it be reasonable to pull the radiator still attached to the engine? If I don't have to deal with draining/disposing of coolant it would make my life much easier. It's due for a change, so if it comes out, it's not going back in. Alternate option... If I got ahold of a floor jack, would it be easier to disconnect the driveshaft and slide the transmission back to get to the clutch? Thanks.

So I aired down and drove probably 40 beach miles yesterday. It went really well, I even drove through some thicker stuff and it handled great. 15psi seemed to work pretty well. Then I just aired back up on the ferry ride back. Thanks for the tips guys! I got lots of good looks and stares from the big 4x4 truck guys

Took it to the beach!

Yea, but this was really soft mushy sand... Not like what's in Maine. Airing down would be good... I need a new compressor, my last one belched smoke.

That's a pretty nice offer! Wow! I wish I was closer to you guys. Not because I need a lifted rig, mine is already lifted, but to wheel! You guys seem to know your stuff!

So I've never driven in sand before... Just moved from ME to NC and saw all the truck guys on the beach so I wanted to do it too... I have a lifted GL with snow tires.... I believe the worst type of tire for a beach? I put it in 4lo and drove onto the beach. It was some pretty soft sand right at the entrance, but I got to some harder stuff. It was going pretty well so I shifted into 2nd gear, that seemed like a bad idea! I almost completely stopped on the shift.... Got back into 1st. Got my obligatory picture (a pretty bad one...), then went to turn around. Got completely stuck, fortunately I read not to spin the tires, but to back up first thing. That worked and a 4 point turn later, I was back toward the entrance. Up a slight hill spinning in the soft sand back to the road. I can drive through 3' of snow, over rocks, through thick mud... But never tackled sand before. What should I know before I try it again so I don't make a fool of myself and lose my car?

I like the rear mounted winch.

Maybe I missed it? What happened with the front axle?

I see your 222,222 and raise you 12,345

At least in Maine, these fuel pumps rust out and start leaking before they fail... So check it for rust. I dunno where you are.

The multifit alloys or whatever they're called were designed to work like that. Do not drill alloys. Trade them for some steel rims, I bet you could get some cash in the deal.

The reason people say to replace that is because the bearings like to fail, they start getting a little sideways, eat a hole in the timing cover, and in worst case ruin the belt. I had one start chewing a hole in my timing cover, but fortunately I came to a stop light and wondered WTF is that terrible noise... It had taken a pretty good chunk out... I took out my knife in traffic and cut the belt..

I'm interested to hear how those NDT tires do in the snow...

If you really have to post pictures from facebook... At least right cilck on the picture and do "copy image location" or whatever your browser calls it. That way people who aren't your friend can see it too.

Maybe it was an even $40 for mine too. I can't remember, but it was a damn good deal. He's a cool old timer to talk to, hah a lot of good stories.

Subarus don't like non NGK plugs, this is after two weeks, they all looked like this. I was wondering why it ran like crap. 'nuff said.

Your engine will actually be happier with the cheap NGKs than the expensive nuclear-tripple-expensivio plugs.

pretty close to where I lived in Maine there was a guy who'd rebuild starters for $40 + expensive parts. My 96 lost its brushes at 115k miles or something. For $45 I had him put in new bearings, brushes, clean it all up and stress test the diodes and regulator. I kept that when I sold the car... So look for the old timers who do this stuff, they do good work, talk your ear off, and keep your car on the road. About your starter, the most common reason they fail is bad contacts. Take it apart and replace the contacts. Even tear the whole thing down, inspect it for wear and re-grease it. It's really easy!