WJM

It works tho.

Maybe. I wont be able to try it tho...speedy got the lines. I will do this before next season starts.

the pre85 trans I have no clue about strength....but I hear they are strong. the 85-94 EA82 tranns seem to be REALLY strong and ive never heard of one breaking due to power...just stupidity. Ive had several full time 4WD tranies, and abused them quite thoroughly...and they never broke or anything. The early EJxx trans are pretty tuff too....but...you get past 1998...and they just dont make them like they used to...unless you get an STi trans, or an RA gear set...or the USDM 6 spd thats pretty much bullet proof.

the bolt pattern is only 1~2MM wider on the GDx chassis, and the strut bolts are clocked the same way. IF you could get a WRX bar, the adjustable type, and adjust it down 2 inches in width...it would work.

Ha. Ha. Ha. No. I may need that extra ECU in the 89 RX.... :-\

The rear...the lines goes stright into the caliper...no banjo bolt. that rubber line goes to a steel one...that one to another rubber one that goes to the steel line on the body at the crossmember for the rear suspension. The BSS line...if the banjo bolt is shorten'd by 2~3 MM, will seal the caliper end of the line correctly with the copper washers, and is long enough to replace the two rubbers and steel....and bolt up to the stock holder where that last rubber one goes to the steel one at the crossmember.

skip did the flywheel...he did change the step...along with lightening it.

Thats what shock dynos are for...I guess I need to get some new ones and compare... You can still get them. They have thier own part number.

shadow is t3h man.

Oh yeah, ANY speed the car will travel in 4WD, either hi or lo...is of no harm to the drive train...i know this...

If this set does not sell by tomorrow evening...I am keeping them and doing the little conversion on the banjo bolt and install these on the RX.

I'm staying out of this. wait...my post here kinda negates that statement.

Push button and the lever style dual range 4WD is a locked "center diff" when engaged. I would highly recommend AGAINST use on hard dry sealed surfaces (pavement, concrete). Any loose/really wet surface is fine. 50/50 locked split in 4WD. LSD rear diff was an option. Standard on RX's tho.

5 seconds after boost comes on (posi mani pres) i get a fuel/ignition cut that lasts about 1/4 of a second. Then 5 secs later it does it again. This happens at 2/3 throttle or more. Does it in every gear now. I dont like it. Any ideas on the problem? BIG NOTE: I am running STOCK BOOST, on an otherwise STOCK engine.

The part numbers I have are the updated/superceded ones. And when you go to order them...they will either supercede to the latest...or those will be it. the ORIGINAL numbers are different...but are discontinued and are superceded with the ones I have.

E.......A........Eighty.......Two....TURBO!

I dont know.

I need to play with t3h dizzy and FSM and some wired to see if I have been....slain!

disty vac advance curves are different.

Strange that my 9.5:1T didnt blow HGs...

Whatever it was it was some REALLY hard plastic and it didnt want to be sanded on, filed on, or grinded on...the only that that went thru it was a portaband saw, and it was protesting that. http://www.interstateplastics.com/meta/fmdel.htm that is da ch!t.

I did mine w/out...but...maybe it would be better to have those.

Its next to the XT. I now notice it does not show 4WD XT...

I hate you. :-p

Like corky said, http://www.headgasket.com/whoweare.html is the place. Go with the stock thickness of .043 to maintain compression...could go thinner if you wanted...